Auxiliary Miter Gauge Facing; Push Block; Grooving And Rabbeting - Delta 36-6013 Manual

AUXILIARY MITER GAUGE FACING

An auxiliary miter gauge facing is used to increase the surface
area of the miter gauge face.
The use of miter gauge with auxiliary facing is the same as
original miter gauge (without auxiliary facing). See Page 34 for
the use of miter gauge.
If desired, you can fit the miter gauge with an auxiliary wood
facing that should be at least 1 inch (25mm) higher than the
maximum depth of cut, and at least as wide as the miter gauge.
This auxiliary wood facing can be fastened to the front of the
miter gauge by using (2) M6 or 1/4-20 flat head screws and nuts,
placing the nuts into the slots provided in the face of the miter
gauge body.
See Figure 53.
Make sure the screws are long enough to secure the facing.
Flat head screws MUST be recessed into face
of board.
FLIP DOWN FENCE
Use the flip down fence when cutting thin stock in which the
blade guard would normally interfere with the fence to make the
desired cut.
To utilize this flip down feature for small, narrow cuts, you MUST
slide the flip down part of the fence underneath the blade guard,
so that the blade is still covered safely by the blade guard. Please
see Figure 54.
For thin materials use the fence on the left of the blade. Fold
down the thin fence to allow use of blade guard. Subtract 2 inches
(50.8mm) from the scale for accurate measurement.

PUSH BLOCK

Push blocks are blocks used to securely hold down the workpiece
against the table. They include some gripping surface or handle to
hold the block. Any screws running through the underside of the
block to fasten the handle should be recessed in order to avoid
contact with the workpiece.
1.
Select a piece of wood about 4 inches wide, 6 inches long
and 1 to 2 inches thick (a cutoff from a 2 by 4 makes a
good blank for a push block).
2.
Drill a hole in the block and glue in a dowel to use as
a handle (you can angle the hole to provide a more
comfortable grip on the handle).
3.
Glue a piece of rough or soft material such as sandpaper
or rubber to the bottom of the block to grip the workpiece
(old mouse pads work well).
See Figure 55.

GROOVING AND RABBETING

Clamping a featherboard in front of the blade can increase safety during non-through cuts, like grooving and rabbeting, and through cuts.
Use a featherboard to guide the workpiece against the table and fence when making non-through cuts such as rabbeting. A featherboard
helps control the kickback.
CUTTING AIDS AND ACCESSORIES
35
FIGURE 53
FIGURE 54
Wooden
dowel
Sandpaper
or old
mouse pad material
FIGURE 55