Push Blocks; Auxiliary Rip Fence Facing; Auxiliary Miter Gage Facing - Delta 36-725 T2 Instruction Manual

AUXILIARY RIP FENCE FACING

Use an auxiliary rip fence facing when needed for special cuts,
such as ripping material that is thin enough to slide under the
rip fence provided with your saw, or when a taller rip fence is
necessary to complete your cut. To add an auxiliary wood facing
to one or both sides of the rip fence, select a piece of wood
with smooth surfaces, Attach the wood to the rip fence with two
clamps. (See Figure 31) For most work, 3/4-inch (19mm) or
1-inch (25mm) stock is suitable.
AUXILIARY MITER GAUGE FACING
An auxiliary miter gauge facing is used to increase the surface
area of the miter gauge face.
The use of miter gauge with auxiliary facing is the same as
original miter gauge (without auxiliary facing). See Page 19 for
the use of miter gauge.
If desired, you can fit the miter gauge with an auxiliary wood
facing that should be at least 1-inch (25mm) higher than the
maximum depth of cut, and at least as wide as the miter gauge.
This auxiliary wood facing can be fastened to the front of the
miter gauge by using two wood screws through the holes (A)
provided in the miter gauge body and into the wood facing. See
Figure 32. Make sure the screws are long enough to secure the
facing, but do not extend all the way through the wood.
PUSH BLOCK
Push blocks are blocks used to securely hold down the workpiece
against the table. They include some gripping surface or handle to
hold the block. Any screws running through the underside of the
block to fasten the handle should be recessed in order to avoid
contact with the workpiece.
1.
Select a piece of wood about 4-inches wide, 6-inches
long and 1- to 2-inches thick (a cutoff from a 2
by 4 makes a good blank for a push block).
2.
Drill a hole in the block and glue in a dowel to use
as a handle (you can angle the hole to provide
a more comfortable grip on the handle).
3.
Glue a piece of rough or soft material such as sandpaper
or rubber to the bottom of the block to grip the
workpiece (old mouse pads work well). See Figure 33.
Grooving and rabbeting
Clamping a featherboard in front of the blade can increase
safety during non-through cuts, like grooving and rabbeting,
and through cuts. Use a featherboard to guide the workpiece
against the table and fence when making non-through
cuts such as rabbeting. A featherboard helps to control the
kickback.
CUTTING AIDS AND ACCESSORIES
26
FIGURE 31
FIGURE 32
Wooden
dowel
Sandpaper
or old
mouse pad
material
FIGURE 33