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VL SERIES STEAMER - SERVICE PROCEDURES AND ADJUSTMENTS
7.
Once the correct pressure has been set, turn
the power switch OFF, replace the adjustment
screw cap and 1/8 inch NPT plug (pressure tap)
on the outlet side of the valve.
8.
Check for proper operation.
DIRECT STEAM MODELS
These models consist of a pressure regulator and
gauge that run off a buildings potable steam supply.
The regulator used will be of the adjustable type and
should be set for a discharge pressure of 10 psi. The
maximum input pressure to the regulator should be
15 psi. Incoming power (120VAC) for the
compartment controls is supplied from a junction
box in the base.
REGENERATED STEAM
(OLDER MODELS)
The steam coils on a regenerated type steamer are
intended for use at a steam supply pressure of 15
psi maximum. A pressure regulating valve is
available as optional equipment for steamers where
a buildings steam supply pressure exceeds 15 psi.
The regulator used will be of the adjustable type and
should be set for a discharge pressure high enough
for good steam generation. This pressure can be
monitored by the supplied pressure gauge. The
regulator should be set, only when steam is flowing
(steam solenoid valve is open). If steam is heavy
with condensate, install a ball float trap in the steam
line before the pressure regulating valve.
WARNING: SHUT OFF THE STEAM SUPPLY
BEFORE SERVICING THE UNIT.
To remove a steam coil, disconnect union in steam
supply line to the coils and in the condensate
discharge line from the coils. Remove header that
supplies steam to coils by disconnecting union at
each coil. In same way, remove coil condensate
collection header. Remove four bolts clamping each
coil flange in place and pull coil forward. Use a new
flange gasket when replacing coil. The faces that
mate with gasket must be clean.
Turn steamer power switch ON, allowing steam
generation and, consequently, pressure to rise to
normal operating level and then turn power switch
OFF for a final purging of boiler and steam supply
lines. Steamer is now ready for use.
HEATER CONTACTORS
WARNING: DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL
POWER TO THE MACHINE AT THE MAIN
CIRCUIT BOX. PLACE A TAG ON THE CIRCUIT
BOX INDICATING THE CIRCUIT IS BEING
SERVICED.
The contactor can be serviced by removing the
cover of the contactor box.
A noisy contactor (hum or chatter) is generally due
to excessive dust or dirt on the armature pole faces
or around the armature core preventing the magnet
coil from pulling the armature into a completely
sealed position. This can usually be corrected by
blowing or wiping the pole faces clean. To inspect
electrical contacts, remove cover at top of contactor
by removing two screws which hold it in place.
Replace contactor if the electrical contacts appear
to be severely pitted or burned.
HEATING ELEMENTS
WARNING: THE FOLLOWING STEPS REQUIRE
POWER TO BE APPLIED TO THE UNIT DURING
THE TEST. USE EXTREME CAUTION AT ALL
TIMES.
1.
Measure the voltage at the heating element
terminals and verify it against the data plate
voltage.
A.
If voltage is incorrect, find the source of
the problem.
B.
If voltage is correct, check current draw
(amps) through the heating element lead
wires. See table below for proper
values.
C.
If current draw is correct then heating
element is ok.
D.
If current draw is not correct then replace
the element and proceed to step 3.
NOTE: When replacing an element, always use a
new gasket and ensure that the flange and tube
surfaces which contact the gasket are clean. If
removed element shows a pronounced scale
build-up on its heating tubes, the other elements
should be removed and mechanically cleaned to
remove the scale. This will prolong their life. DO
NOT immerse elements in a chemical solution to
descale.
2.
Check for proper operation.
Page 34 of 88
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