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Repair manual
Replacing
the hot end
Instructions
Caution: Make sure filament is removed, the Ultimaker is turned off
and power supply disconnected before you start the replacement.
Ensure the nozzle is completely cooled down to avoid a risk of
burns.
Note: There are several ways to perform this repair. The instructions
describe leaving the print head in the gantry system, but you may
prefer to take the head out of the axles for more room.
Equipment/supplies needed
Tools
•
2.0 hex screwdriver
•
0.5 Nm torque screwdriver with PH1 bit
•
Phillips screwdriver
•
Print head alignment aid
•
Nozzle alignment tool
•
Blue tape
Parts
•
1x 1310 - Hot end isolator
•
1x 2275 - Hot end spacer
•
1x 2278 - TFM coupler
•
1x 2311 - Olsson heater block
•
1x 2313 - 0.4 mm Olsson nozzle
•
1x 2317 - M3x16 countersunk bolt
•
1x 2322 - Nozzle ring DIN 6798V M3
Time
•
30 minutes
Tip:
It is advised to perform the Atomic Method before starting this
repair. Filament stuck in between the hot end parts can act like glue,
making it very difficult to disassemble the parts.
All orientations are noted as seen from the front of the printer.
Tip:
1
/ 8
Page.
For internal use only
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Summary of Contents for Ultimaker 2 PLUS
- Page 1 Tip: It is advised to perform the Atomic Method before starting this Caution: Make sure filament is removed, the Ultimaker is turned off repair. Filament stuck in between the hot end parts can act like glue, and power supply disconnected before you start the replacement.
- Page 2 Disassembly 1. Remove the clamp clips 2. Remove the Bowden tube 3. Take the print head out of the printer • • • Place the print head in the front right corner. Press down on the white tube coupling collet. Pull the Y print head shaft forward so it snaps out of the sliding •...
- Page 3 Disassembly 6. Remove the fan bracket 7. Open the hot end holder 8. Remove the spacer and the TFM coupler • • • The fan bracket is attached with two M3x4 bolts on either side of Use the hex screwdriver to loosen the two M3x10 bolts that are in Take the spacer from the TFM coupler.
- Page 4 Reassembly 1. Prepare the new heater block 2. Insert the sensor and heater • • Take a new 0.4 mm nozzle and screw it onto the new heater block. Insert the PT100 sensor into the smaller opening on the right. •...
- Page 5 Remove the tape from the print head housing parts. bracket, the heat will spread throughout the complete bracket. This will make it harder for the Ultimaker 2+ to maintain its temperature during printing, which can lead to quality issues or error messages.
- Page 6 Reassembly 10. Align the linear bearings 11. Tighten the thumb screws • • Look at the inside of the linear bearings and rotate them until they Completely tighten the two thumb screws in the back by hand. • are correctly orientated. To tighten the front two thumb screws, use the calibration spacer.
- Page 7 Reassembly 14. Secure the print head shaft X 15. Secure the print head shaft Y 16 Insert the Bowden tube • • • Tilt the left and right sliding blocks to be able to place the print Tilt the front and back sliding blocks to be able to place the print Press down on the tube coupling collet in the print head.
- Page 8 Reassembly 18. Secure with the clamp clip 19. Divide the clips • • Place the blue clamp clip around the tube coupling collet to secure Evenly divide the clips over the Bowden tube and braided sleeve. • the Bowden tube. Make sure to keep the braided sleeve on the left of the Bowden tube.
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