Sewing Assistance ........... 30 Important information ........Using the thread cutter ..........30 Needle Pad ..............30 My bernette ............10 Attaching/removing the knee lifter ....... 31 Machine overview ..........10 Attaching/removing the freearm cover ......31 Front view ..............
Table of Contents Threading the center Coverstitch Needle Thread center CC/green ..............Threading the right Coverstitch Needle Thread RC/blue ................... Thread change ............52 Knotting thick thread ..........Changing the needle thread ........Changing the looper thread ........Sewing test ............54 Perfoming a sewing test for an coverstitch .....
Do not look directly into the LED lamp with optical instruments (e. g. magnifying glass). • If the LED lamp is damaged or defective, have the LED lamp checked or repaired at your local authorized bernette dealer. • Switch off the machine before working in the needle area. •...
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• If the machine is damaged or does not work properly, have the machine checked or repaired by your local authorized bernette dealer. • Keep all ventilation openings of the machine and the foot control free of lint, dust and loose cloth.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS • USA and Canada only: Do not connect power plug NEMA 1-15 to circuits exceeding 150 volt-to-ground. • Only use this machine with the supplied foot control of type 4C-316/-326/-345. • Never insert any objects into any openings of the machine. •...
• When passing on the machine to a third party, enclose the short manual of the machine. Proper use Your bernette machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper.
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Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided. CAUTION NOTICE Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided. You will find tips from bernette sewing experts next to this symbol. 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
My bernette Overview - Needle area Stitch Plate Thread Guide on the Headframe Stitch Plate Screw Thread Guide on the Needle Holder Standard Coverstitch Presser Foot Needle Clamp Presser Foot Release Button Needle Screws Presser Foot Bar Needles 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
My bernette Overview Presser Foot Presser Foot Sole Shaft Groove Presser Foot Sole Pin Marking: Right Coverstitch Needle (RC) Presser Foot Spring Marking: Center Coverstitch Needle (CC) Fixing Screw Marking: Left Coverstitch Needle (LC) Presser Foot shaft 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
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My bernette Overview - Looper area Feed Dog Air Threader Pipes Chain Looper Chain Looper 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
My bernette Overview Threading area Threader Cover Air Threader Nozzle Threading Chart Air Threader Lever Coverstitch Insert Accessories stored in the Threader Cover Air Threader Connector On/Off 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
My bernette Overview - Side panel Carry Handle Differential Feed Dial Retractable Thread Guide Handwheel Spool Pin Air Vents Spool Pin Connection for Foot Control and Power Cable Needle Pad Main Switch Presser Foot Lifter Connection for Knee Lifter (FHS) Stitch Length Setting 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
My bernette Symbols on the machine The symbols on the machine are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine. • Coverstitch Formation «CS» • Chainstitch Formation «CL» Left Coverstitch Needle Thread (Left Coverstitch Needle) Thread Path yellow «CS»...
My bernette 2.2 Overview - standard accessories Included accessories Visit www.bernette.comfor more accessories information. Figure Name Purpose Power Cable and Foot To connect the machine with the power supply Control Cable system and the Foot Control. To start and stop the machine.
My bernette Accessories behind the Threader Cover The most often used accessories while sewing are stored behind the Threader Cover on the machine, so it is always quickly at hand. Figure Name Purpose Needle Set ELx705 CF Recommended needles for all-purpose use.
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My bernette Figure Name Purpose Spool Net (4 x) To support even unwinding of nylon, rayon, silk or metallic threads from the spool. Spool Disc (4 x) To support the regular unwinding of the thread from the spool. Screwdriver To loosen/tighten the stitch plate screws.
Setting up the machine Setting up the machine 3.1 Working area A solid table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the sewing table is important to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands. The recommendation for this includes matching the table height with the body posture.
Setting up the machine > Set the Power Switch to «I». – The machine and the Sewing Light switch on. > Turn the Power Switch to «0». – The machine switches off. – The sewing light switches off time-delayed to the machine. 3.3 Foot control Press the foot control By operating the Foot Control the needle and knife move.
Setting up the machine Threader Cover The Threader Cover protects the inserted Looper Threads during sewing operations. The Accessory Holder on the inside of the Threader Cover provides quick access to the most frequently used accessories. > To open the Threader Cover, hold the groove and lower it forwards. Prerequisite: •...
Setting up the machine Removing/attaching the Coverstitch Insert for Slide-on Table Prerequisite: • Threader Cover is opened. > To remove the Coverstitch Insert, pull the Coverstitch Insert out of the snap-in opening. > To attach the Coverstitch Insert for the Slide-on Table, push the Coverstitch Insert for the Slide-on Table into the snap-in opening.
Setting up the machine Preparing the Thread Guide The Thread Guide ensures a clean unwinding of the thread from the thread cones. Each thread is guided through a Thread Guide Wire located directly above the thread cone. > To attach the Retractable Thread Guide, insert it into the opening provided in the Thread Stand until it clicks.
Setting up the machine Place the spool disc The Cap Disc ensures the stability of the thread spool and the even unwinding of the thread. > Place the thread spool on the Thread Stand. > Push the flat side of the Cap Disc over the Spool Pin to the thread spool. Using the spool net The spool net prevents the thread from sliding down from the thread spool and is recommended for special threads.
Setting up the machine > Lower the Presser Foot Lifter. – The machine is ready for sewing. – The Thread Tension is active. Lifting the presser foot up/down with the knee lifter Temporarily lifting the presser foot via the Free Hand System allows repositioning the sewing project with both hands.
Setting up the machine > Lift the Presser Foot Spring slightly and remove the presser foot. > Lift the Presser Foot Spring slightly and place the new presser foot beneath the shaft groove so that the shaft groove lies exactly above the Presser Foot Pin. >...
Damage due to excessive tightening of the screws NOTICE The threads of the Needle Holder may be damaged. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. > Do not overtighten the Needle Screws. The needle holder can hold three needles. The machine is designed for needles of the ELx705 system. Needle sizes between 80 −...
Setting up the machine Threading the needle manually With the Needle Threader every needle can be threaded easily. > Hold the Needle Threader with the flat grip side facing up. > Pull the thread horizontally through the slot and hold the end of the thread. >...
Setting up the machine 3.9 Sewing Assistance Using the thread cutter The Thread Cutter is used for cutting threads. > Pull the threads over the thread cutter from the front and then down. – The threads are clamped and ready for the sewing start. Needle Pad The Needle Pad is used to store needles that are not being used.
> To remove the Knee Lifter, pull the Knee Lifter out of the Knee Lifter Connection without swinging the Knee Lifter sideways. The swing-out position of the Knee Lifter can be adjusted at a bernette shop if necessary. Attaching/removing the freearm cover The freearm is ideal when working with tubular, closed projects such as cuffs, trouser hems or sleeve ends.
Setting up the machine > To attach the Slide-on Table, push the Slide-on Table along the guide rails from the left until it engages. > To remove the Slide-on Table, press the Release Mechanism (1) of the Slide-on Table and pull the Slide- on Table to the left.
Sewing start Sewing start 4.1 Check before starting to sew In order to start a project successfully, the following steps must be performed. • The machine is switched on and the presser foot is lifted. • The fabric and the applications have been selected. (see page 33) •...
Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the Air Threader Pipes which results in permanent blocking of the pipes. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. Avoid the use of coated or waxed threads.
Sewing start 4.4 Selecting the needle It is recommended to use the Needle Type ELx705 CF (Chrome Finish) version as this type is more durable due to the chrome coating.The machine runs most reliably with these needles because of their second groove.
Sewing start Detect defective needles Check the needle before each sewing start and replace it if necessary. Bent needle Blunt needle Damaged needle point Needle Overview Illustration Designation *Size Description Material/Application Coverstitch Needle 80/12 With slightly rounded point, a For overlocking and second groove and chrome coverstitching applications.
Stitch Stitch 5.1 Stitch type With this machine different stitch formations can be set. These stitches are achieved by different configurations of needles and mechanical settings. Coverstitch Coverstitch hems on garments, having been sewn with the machine, look very professional. 3- / 4-Thread Coverstitch The coverstitch consists of 2 - 3 needle threads on the right side and 1 looper thread on the wrong side of the fabric.
Stitch Chainstitch Basting The chainstitch is ideal for basting, e.g. in the provisional assembly of garments for fitting, when sewing costumes or with alterations to be made. Due to the loop structure of the stitch, the seam can be undone simply by pulling the Looper Thread.
Stitch 5.2 Stitch Chart This instruction manual includes a Stitch Overview with all necessary default settings for each stitch. These default values may vary depending on the used material. > Remove all the needles which are not required. Stitch name Stitch pattern No. 16 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC)
Machine settings Machine settings 6.1 Setting the Presser Foot Pressure The Pressure Foot Pressure has been set in the default value so that it is optimal to sew medium-weight fabrics.Most materials do not require any adjustment of the Presser Foot Pressure. There are cases, however, when adjustment is required, such as when sewing very light and heavy fabrics.
Machine settings > To increase the Thread Tension, turn the Thread Tension Adjustment Dial of the corresponding threads down to a higher value. An adjustment of the stitch formation can primarily be achieved by reducing the thread tension. Optimizing the Thread Tension for coverstitches The Thread Tension should be reduced in the smallest possible steps from the basic value.
Machine settings Default value "1" In a default value of 1, the machine achieves optimum sewing results with most applications. The Differential Feed in default setting 1 for flat and even seams. Gathering "1.5 – 2" At a setting of 1.5 - 2 the Front Feed Dog (2) covers a longer distance than the Rear Feed Dog (1). Gathering >...
Machine settings Stretching "0.6" The Front Feed Dog (0.6) covers a shorter distance than the Rear Feed Dog (1). The material is stretched under the presser foot which helps to reduce puckering. This setting can also be used to deliberately stretch the material.
Threading Threading Threading of all Looper Threads is done by the Air Threading System. Threading of the Needle Threads must be performed in a specific sequence. > Thread the Needle Threads from left to right. 7.1 Threading preparation Before threading, make sure that the device is mechanically adjusted to the required stitch. The machine has color-coded threading paths.
Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the Air Threader Pipes which results in permanent blocking of the pipes. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. Avoid the use of coated or waxed threads.
Threading Treading the Chain Lopper Thread CL/purple Prerequisite: • Preparing for threading has been performed. • Threader Cover is opened. > Set the Air Threader Connector to the left position. > Slowly turn the Handwheel counterclockwise until the Air Threader Pipes couple. >...
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Threading > Place the end of the thread approx. 1.2 cm into the corresponding Air Threader Nozzle. > Press and hold the Air Threader Button. – The automatic thread feed into the Air Threader starts. – The Looper Thread is shot through the Air Threader Pipe and exits at the Looper Tip. >...
Damage by improper use of the Threading Wire NOTICE The Air Threader Pipes may be damaged. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. > Always insert the Threading Wire in the thread feed direction and pull it through.
Threading 7.3 Threading the needle thread Detailed information can be found in the stitch chart. Threading the left Coverstitch Needle Thread left LC/yellow The left Needle Thread is provided with this yellow marking along the entire threading path. Prerequisite: • «Threading is prepared».
Threading Threading the center Coverstitch Needle Thread center CC/green The center Coverstitch Needle Thread is provided with this green marking along the entire Threading Path. Prerequisite: • «Threading is prepared». > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up behind the green marking. >...
Threading Threading the right Coverstitch Needle Thread RC/blue The right Coverstitch Needle Thread is provided with this blue marking along the entire Threading Path. Prerequisite: • «Threading is prepared». > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up behind the blue marking. >...
Threading 7.4 Thread change Knotting thick thread Tying on threads is often used for changing Needle or Looper Threads. Keep the knotted area as little as possible to reduce friction. Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye NOTICE The needle can be bent. A bent needle affects the stitch formation. >...
Threading > Tie the threaded thread to the new thread. > Pull the threaded end of the thread until the newly knotted thread is in front of the Needle Eye. > Cut off the new thread behind the knotting. > Remove the excess thread from the Needle Eye. >...
Sewing test Sewing test To check the optimal setting, a sewing test should be sewn on a spare piece of the fabric used for your project. The default values of the stitches represent recommendations that work for most standard applications. Depending on the result of the sewing test, fine adjustments for stitch optimization are possible.
Sewing test 4-/3-Thread Coverstitch In a balanced stitch formation the Needle Threads (yellow, green, blue) are visible as straight lines on the top side of the stitch and as points on the bottom side of the stitch. The Looper Thread forms a connecting waved line on the bottom side of the stitch.
Practical Coverstitching Practical Coverstitching 9.1 Securing the stitch The stitches are secured when they are overstitched. Securing stitches is particularly important when seam ends are not integrated with other seams or hems. Securing cover- and chainstitches at the start of the seam With cover- and chainstitches, the first stitch is automatically secured by the following stitches.
Practical Coverstitching 9.2 Undoing a stitch Cover- and chainstitches are loops which are formed by the intertwining of Looper Thread and Needle Threads. Undoing Coverstitches > On the wrong side of the fabric, pull the Looper Thread out of the thread chain at the seam end. >...
Practical Coverstitching 9.4 Binding a seam Binding seams proves ideal for elastic necklines, sleeve edgings and circular finishes. > Cut bias tape or strips of jersey to the desired width. > Mark the seam, iron it or pin it in place. >...
Practical Coverstitching > To sew parallel lines or pintucks, use either the left or the right edge of the foot or the scale on the Coverstitch Insert. 9.7 Gathering a seam Single layers of thin fabric can be gathered with the chainstitch. >...
> Remove fabric scraps and thread remnants using a vacuum cleaner with soft tip. Cleaning the machine The service life of the machine depends on the care and maintenance. Based on normal household use, an annual service at the Authorized bernette dealer is recommended. Recommended aids for cleaning: • Damp cloth •...
Appendix Cleaning the Looper Area Dust, fabric and thread remnants accumulate in the Looper area during overlocking and these should be removed regularly. Prerequisite: • The presser foot is raised. • The needles are in the top position. • The machine is switched off. >...
Cleaning the suction feet prevents the machine from slipping on the table at high sewing speed. > Remove dust and thread remnants from the suction feet with a damp cloth. Oiling the machine > Regularly lubricate the Upper Looper Joint with a drop of the supplied bernette overlock oil. 2022-01 EN 5040062.0.04...
Appendix 10.3 Troubleshooting Fault Solution > Elongate the stitch length. Fabric does not feed well. > Increase the Presser Foot Pressure for heavyweight fabric. > Decrease the Presser Foot Pressure for lightweight fabrics. > Check the setting of the Differential Feed. Needle breaks >...
Appendix 10.4 Specifications Article Value Unit Number of stitches Number of Loopers Number of needles 1− 3 Needle System ELx705 Needle size 80 − 100 (12 − 16) Differential Feed 0.6 − 2.0 Maximum fabric thickness 5 (0.23) mm (in) Stitch Length LN 5.0 −...