Bernette b38 Instruction Manual
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Bernette b38 Instruction Manual

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  • Page 1 Instruction Manual...

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents NAMES OF PARTS Adjusting the Needle Position Names of Parts Bridge Stitch Standard Accessories Button Sewing Extension table Attaching Elastic Sewing Table and Accessory box Various Kinds of Buttonholes and Their Uses Free-arm sewing Standard Buttenhole Stitch overview Adjusting the Stitch Width and Density for Buttonholes Round-End Buttonhole GETTING READY TO SEW...
  • Page 4 Stitch Adjustment of Programmed Patterns Balance CARE OF YOUR MACHINE Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dog Installing the Bobbin Holder Problems and Warning Signs TROUBLESHOOTING STITCH PATTERN Overview Mode 1-6...
  • Page 5 IMPORTANT DANGER! When using an electrical machine, basic safety To reduce the risk of electric shock: precautions should always be followed, including 1. Never leave the machine unattended when it the following: is plugged in. 2. Always unplug this machine from the electric Please read the instruction manual carefully outlet immediately after using and before before using this machine.

  • Page 6: All Rights Reserved

    19. When replacing the light bulb, always use SERVICING OF DOUBLE- the same type. INSULATED PRODUCTS 20. The machine may only be used in combination with a foot control of the type YC-485-EC-1 (100-240 V area). In a double-insulated product, two systems of 21.

  • Page 7: Names Of Parts

    NAMES OF PARTS Names of Parts Start/stop button Reverse sewing button Drawer for stitch overview Auto-lock button Needle stop up/down button Thread cutter button Twin Needle button Slide speed control Touch Panel Hole for second spool pin Bobbin winder stopper Bobbin winder spindle Spool disc large Spool pin...

  • Page 8: Standard Accessories

    Standard Accessories Zigzag foot : A (set on the machine) Overlock foot: C Zipper foot:E Satin stitch foot: F Blindstitch foot: G Button-sew-on foot: T Open toe foot: F2 Buttonhole foot with slide:R Needle assortment Spool disc (X 2) (Large) Spool disc (X 2) (Small) (1x set on the machine) Second spool pin Bobbin (X 4) (1x set in the machine)

  • Page 9: Sewing Table And Accessory Box

    Sewing Table and Accessory box The sewing table provides an extended sewing area and can be easily removed for free arm sewing. Sewing table Hole • Removing Sewing Table Pull the table away from the machine, as illustrated. • Attaching Sewing Table Push the sewing table, inserting the pin into the hole until the table snaps into the machine.

  • Page 10: Getting Ready To Sew

    GETTING READY TO SEW Connecting the Power Supply • Using the foot control Switch off the power switch . Insert the foot control plug into the foot control jack . Insert the cable plug into the power cable connection . Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet .

  • Page 11: Controlling Sewing Speed

    Controlling Sewing Speed • Slide speed control Sewing speed can be varied by the slide speed control accord- ing to your sewing needs. To increase sewing speed, slide the slider to the right. To decrease sewing speed, slide the slider to the left. •...

  • Page 12: Machine Operating Buttons

    Machine Operating Buttons • Start/stop button Lower the presser foot lever. Press the start/stop button to start the machine. The machine will sew the left row first. The machine starts run- ning slowly for the first few stitches, and it then runs at the speed set by the slide speed control.
  • Page 13 • Needle stop up/down button Press the needle stop up/down Button to bring the needle up or down. • Thread cutter button Press the thread cutter button to trim the threads after sew- ing. The thread cutter mark will blink , while the machine cuts the threads.

  • Page 14: Touch Panel

    Touch Panel Mode button When the power switch is turned on, the direct pattern selection (mode 1) is set automatically. Press the mode button to change the mode. Refer to page 24. Clear button Press the clear button to clear the memorized stitch pattern. Press and hold the clear button until the buzzer beeps to clear all memorized stitch patterns.

  • Page 15: Attaching And Removing The Presser Foot Holder

    Attaching and Removing the Presser Foot Holder CAUTION: Turn OFF the power switch before removing or attaching the presser foot holder. • Removing Presser foot holder Remove the setscrew by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver. • Attaching Presser foot holder Match the hole in the presser foot holder with the threaded hole in the presser bar.

  • Page 16: Presser Foot Lever

    Presser Foot Lever The presser foot lever raises and lowers the presser foot. You can raise the foot about 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) higher than the nor- mal up position for easy removal of the presser foot, or to help you place thick material under the foot. Presser foot lever Normal up position Highest position...

  • Page 17: Changing The Needle

    Changing the Needle CAUTION: Turn OFF the power switch before changing the needle. Switch off the power switch. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel counterclockwise and lower the presser foot. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counterclockwise.

  • Page 18: Bobbin Winding And Inserting

    Bobbin Winding and Inserting • Removing the bobbin Gently slide the hook cover release button to the right and remove the hook cover plate. Lift out the bobbin. Hook cover release button Hook cover plate Bobbin PLEASE NOTE: Use the “J” plastic bobbins for horizontal hook (marked with “J”...
  • Page 19 • Bobbin Winding PLEASE NOTE: Set the slide speed control at its fastest position for bob- bin winding. Draw the thread from the spool and pass the thread around the bobbin winding tension disc. Bobbin winder tension disc Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to the outside.
  • Page 20 • Insert the bobbin Put one bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle. Place a bob- bin in the bobbin holder with the thread running off coun- terclockwise. End of thread Guide the thread into the first notch on the front side of the bobbin holder.

  • Page 21: Threading The Machine

    Threading the Machine Raise the presser foot. Press the needle stop up/down button to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. Needle stop up/down button CAUTION: Turn OFF the power switch before threading the machine. • Threading the Machine Draw the end of the thread around the upper thread guide.
  • Page 22 • Needle threader CAUTION: Turn OFF the power switch when using the needle threader. Lower the presser foot. Raise the needle to its highest posi- tion. Pull down the needle threader as far as it will go. The hook comes out through the needle eye from behind. Knob Draw the thread from guide (a) to guide (b)
  • Page 23 • Drawing up the Bobbin Thread Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand. Press the needle stop up/down button twice to lower and raise the needle to pick up the bobbin thread. Needle stop up/down button Pull both threads 4˝...

  • Page 24: Pattern Selection

    Pattern Selection • Mode 1 You can select the following stitch patterns directly by pressing the pattern keys 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Example: To select stitch pattern 4 in mode 1. When the power switch is turned on, the direct pattern selection (mode 1) is set automatically.

  • Page 25: Setting Mode

    Setting Mode To enter the setting mode, press and hold the memory button and turn the power switch on until the setting mode screen appears. In this mode you can set the following machine functions. • Buzzer sound setting The buzzer sound can be turned on or off using the buzzer sound setting.The default buzzer sound setting is “ON”.

  • Page 26: Adjusting The Thread Tension For A Straight Stitch

    • Key position adjustment You can adjust the key position when you think the key sensor is off from the actual key position. Enter the setting mode. Press the mode button 2 or 3 times to enter the key position adjustment. The key position adjustment screen appears.“P1”...

  • Page 27: Adjusting The Needle Thread Tension For A Zigzag Stitch

    • Tension is too loose Needle thread (top thread) Bobbin thread (bottom thread) To tighten tension Right side (top side) of fabric Wrong side (bottom side) of fabric The needle thread shows through on the wrong side of the fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a higher ten- sion setting number to tighten the thread tension.

  • Page 28: Basic Sewing

    BASIC SEWING Straight Stitch sewing Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Mode 2 : Thread tension: 2 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot • Starting to sew Raise presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam guide line on the stitch plate (5/8˝ (1.6 cm) is most common). Lower the needle to the point where you want to start.
  • Page 29 • Stitch plate The seam guides on the stitch plate and the hook cover help you to measure seam allowance. The numbers on the stitch plate indicate the distance between the center needle position and the edge of the fabric Center needle position Edge of the fabric Number...

  • Page 30: Straight Stitch

    Straight Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : 1 or 2 Mode 2 : 01 or 02 Thread tension: 2 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot For seaming garments, zipper application and more. Pattern 02 is used for seaming fine fabrics. Securing Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : 7...

  • Page 31: Stretch Stitch

    Stretch Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Mode 2 : 04 or 12 Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot This stitch is a narrow stretch stitch designed to eliminate puck- ering on knit fabrics and bias seams, while permitting the seam to be pressed completely open flat.

  • Page 32: Zigzag

    Zigzag Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : 5 Mode 2 : 05 or 13 Thread tension: 2 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot The zigzag stitch is one of the most useful and versatile stitches. It is used for overcasting, darning, appliqué, and also used as a decorative stitch.

  • Page 33: 3-Step Zigzag

    3-step zigzag Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Mode 2 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot This stitch is used to finish seams on synthetics and other fab- rics that tend to pucker. The stitch is also excellent for darning and mending tears.

  • Page 34: Knit Stitch

    Knit Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot Place your fabric to allow a 5/8˝ (1.5 cm) seam. Trim excess close to stitching. Be careful not to cut the stitches. Double Overedge Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension:...

  • Page 35: Zipper Sewing

    Zipper Sewing Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Thread tension: 1 - 4 Presser foot: Zigzag foot Zipper foot E • Attaching the zipper foot Fit the pin on the zipper foot into the notch in the presser foot holder. To sew the left-side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot with the right-hand side of the pin To sew the right-side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot with the left-hand side of the pin...
  • Page 36 Attach the zipper foot with the pin on the right. Sew through all the layers from the end of the zipper opening, guiding the zipper teeth along the edge of the foot. Stop the machine 2˝ (5 cm) before the foot reaches the slider on the zipper tape.

  • Page 37: Blindstitch

    Blindstitch Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Mode 2 : 09 or 16 Thread tension: 1 - 4 Presser foot: Blindstitch foot Fold a hem with the wrong side of the fabric up to form a 1/4˝ – 7/16˝ (0.4 – 0.7 cm) allowance. Wrong side of the fabric 1/4˝...

  • Page 38: Bridge Stitch

    Bridge Stitch Patterns #59 to #62 in mode 3 are extender stitches which are used to insert straight stitches after a stitch pattern. The extender stitches #61 and #62 inherit the stitch length and needle position of a previous pattern in programmed pattern combination.

  • Page 39: Attaching Elastic

    Attaching Elastic Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension: 3 - 7 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot Stitch patterns 06 in mode 2 can also be used. Mark the elastic into quarters. Match those to the center front, center back and side seams, and pin the elastic to the fabric. Place the elastic under the foot and stitch into place while stretch the elastic evenly.

  • Page 40: Various Kinds Of Buttonholes And Their Uses

    Various Kinds of Buttonholes and Their Uses Standard Buttenhole This standard buttonhole is widely used on medium to heavy fabrics. The buttonhole size is automatically determined by placing a button in the buttonhole foot with slide. Round-End Buttonhole This buttonhole is used on fine to medium weight fabrics, espe- cially for blouses and children’s clothes.

  • Page 41: Standard Buttenhole

    Standard Buttenhole Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Mode 2 : Thread tension: 1 - 5 Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide Buttonhole lever sign • To sew Press the needle stop up/down button to raise the needle. Attach the buttonhole foot with slide R snapping the pin into the notch of the presser foot holder.
  • Page 42 Start the machine to sew the buttonhole. The buttonhole will be automatically sewn. The machine will sew the left row first. The machine will sew the back bartack and the right row. The machine will sew the front bartack, then it stops auto- matically.

  • Page 43: Adjusting The Stitch Width And Density For Buttonholes

    Adjusting the Stitch Width and Density for Buttonholes • To adjust the stitch width Press the stitch width button to change the stitch. Press the button to decrease stitch width Press the button to increase stitch width. The stitch width can be varied from 2.5 to 7.0 depending on the selected buttonhole.

  • Page 44: Keyhole Buttonhole

    Keyhole Buttonhole Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension: 1 - 5 Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide Sewing procedure is the same as standard buttonhole. Use the seam ripper and an eyelet punch to open the buttonhole. Eyelet punch The stitch width can be varied from 5.5 to 7.0.

  • Page 45: Buttonhole With Cord

    Buttonhole with cord Stitch pattern: Mode 1 : Mode 2 : Thread tension: 1 - 5 Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide Use the same procedure as the standard buttonhole pro- cedure. Set the stitch width to match the thickness of the cord used.

  • Page 46: Darning Stitch

    Darning Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide • Starting to sew Pull the button holder to the back. Place the garment under the foot. Press the needle stop up/down button twice. Move the fabric to the left to draw both threads under the foot.

  • Page 47: Bartack

    Bartack Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot The bartack is used to reinforce pockets, crotches and belt carri- ers where extra strength is needed. • Starting to sew Start the machine and sew until the machine stops automatically. The machine will sew a bartack 5/8˝...

  • Page 48: Decorative Stitching

    DECORATIVE STITCHING Vari-Overlock Stitch pattern: Mode 2 : Thread tension: 6 - 8 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example). Fold the fabric as shown and stitch on the fold. Allow the needle to just clear the folded edge to create a shelled edge.

  • Page 49: Scallop Stitch

    Scallop Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 3 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot Stitch patterns 47 or 57 in mode 3 can also be used. Sew the stitches approximately 3/8˝ (1 cm) inside the edge of the fabric. Trim the outside of the stitches as shown.

  • Page 50: Patchwork Piecing

    Patchwork Piecing Stitch pattern: Mode 3 : 01 and 28 Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Zigzag foot Place the patchwork pieces right sides together. Select pattern 01 in mode 3. Sew a precise 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) seam allowance. Wrong side of the fabric Right side of the fabric Select pattern 28 in mode 3.

  • Page 51: Fagoting

    Fagoting Stitch pattern: Mode 3 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot * Stitch patterns 22 or 46, 48 in mode 3 can also be used. Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest.

  • Page 52: Fringing

    Fringing Stitch pattern: Mode 3 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot Fringing adds a special touch on table linens and shawls. Choose a firm, woven fabric like linen where threads can be removed easily. Carefully cut the fabric on the grain. Remove a single strand of yarn or thread where the fringing is to begin.

  • Page 53: Cross Stitch

    Cross Stitch Stitch pattern: Mode 3 : Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot Open toe foot: F2 You can make cross stitch designs with these patterns, in half the time it would take if embroidered by hand. * If you press the auto-lock button before sewing, the machine will sew one unit of the cross stitch and stop automatically.

  • Page 54: Twin Needle Sewing

    Twin Needle Sewing Stitch pattern: Mode 3 : 54 (Example) Thread tension: 3 - 6 Presser foot: Satin stitch foot Open toe foot: F2 PLEASE NOTE: When you sew patterns with the twin needle, test the stitches before you begin to sew. Use Zigzag foot or Satin stitch foot for twin needle sew- ing.

  • Page 55: Programming Patterns And Letters

    PROGRAMMING PATTERNS AND LETTERS Programming the Auto-lock Stitch Example: Stitch pattern 54 (mode 3) Select pattern 54 (mode 3). Press the memory button. Select pattern 92 (mode 3). Press the memory button. Place the fabric and sew. The machine will sew a locking stitch, stitch pattern 54, locking stitch and stop.

  • Page 56: Programming The Pattern Combination

    Programming the Pattern Combination Example: Stitch pattern 56, 58 and 57 (mode 3) Select pattern 56 (mode 3). Press the memory button, and the stitch pattern 56 is memorized. The LCD display shows only 1 character at a time. The memorized stitch pattern is shifted to the left side of the display and the cursor blinks.

  • Page 57: Bridge Stitches

    Bridge Stitches 59 60 61 62 Patterns 59 to 62 ( ) in mode 3 are bridge stitches which are used to insert straight stitches between stitch pat- terns. The bridge stitches 61 and 62 inherit the stitch length and needle position of a previous pattern in programmed pattern combination.

  • Page 58: Programming A Mirror Image

    Programming a Mirror Image Example: Stitch patterns 57 (Mode 3) and its mirror image Select pattern 57 (mode 3). Press the memory button. Select pattern 57 (mode 3). Press the mirror image button. The mirror image will appear on the LCD display. Press the memory button. Start to sew.

  • Page 59: Sewing A Pattern Combination From The Beginning

    Sewing a Pattern Combination from the Beginning If you have to stop sewing a pattern combination and wish to sew it over again, press the memory button to sew the pattern com- bination from the beginning. Programmed pattern combination. Stop sewing. Press the memory button.

  • Page 60: Programming Letters

    Programming Letters In mode 4, 5 or 6, you can program text by entering the number of alphabets. Mode 4 : Alphabets/number/symbol Mode 5 : European accented letters Mode 6 : Russian (Cyrillic) letters Example: To program “Deppé” Press the mode button to enter mode 4. Enter 14 to select upper case letter “D”.

  • Page 61: Reducing The Size Of Letters

    Reducing the Size of Letters Example: To reduce the height of character “ “ to approximately 2/3 of its original size. Press the mode button to enter mode 4. Enter 22 to select upper case letter “L”. Press the memory button. Enter 85 to select character “...

  • Page 62: Viewing A Long Text

    Viewing a Long Text The LCD display shows up to 3 characters at a time. If the entire text is not displayed, press the cursors to scroll the text. Pressing the cursor shifts the cursor and scrolls the text to the left.

  • Page 63: Duplicating A Letter (Pattern)

    Duplicating a Letter (pattern) Example: To duplicate “2” from characters “123” Move the cursor under the character “2”. Press the memory button to duplicate the character “2”.

  • Page 64: Stitch Adjustment Of Programmed Patterns

    Stitch Adjustment of Programmed Patterns The stitch width and length of the programmed stitch pattern can be altered uniformly or individually. Example: To alter the stitch width uniformly. Enter the mode 3. Select pattern 67 ( Press the memory button. Select pattern 67 ( Press the mirror image button.
  • Page 65 Example: To alter the stitch width individually Enter the mode 3. Select pattern 54 ( Press the memory button twice. Move the cursor under the second stitch pattern of 54 ( Press the stitch width button to alter the stitch width (3.5). A pattern series will be sewn.

  • Page 66: Balance

    Balance The sewing results of the stretch patterns may vary depending upon the sewing conditions, such as sewing speed, type of the fabric, number of layers etc. Always test sew on a scrap piece of the fabric that you wish to use.

  • Page 67: Care Of Your Machine

    CARE OF YOUR MACHINE Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dog WARNING: Turn the power switch off and unplug the machin before cleaning. The machine must only be disassembled as described in this section. CAUTION: Do not store the machine in a high-humidity area, near a heat radiator, or in direct sunlight.

  • Page 68: Problems And Warning Signs

    Problems and Warning Signs If a buzzer sounds and the LCD display shows a warning sign, follow the guidance below. Warning sign Cause Try this 1. The start/stop button is pressed with the foot control con- Disconnect the foot control. nected.

  • Page 69: Troubleshooting

    TROUBLESHOOTING Condition Cause Remedy 1. The thread is not threaded properly. Page 21, 22 The needle thread breaks 2. The thread tension is too tight. Page 26, 27 3. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 17 4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 17 5.

  • Page 70: Stitch Pattern

    STITCH PATTERN Overview Mode 1-6 Mode 1 Mode 5 Mode 2 Mode 3 Mode 6 Mode 4 EN – 11/2016 – 1st Edition 5 60008.0.04 / 809850266 © BERNINA International AG Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com...
  • Page 72 EN – 11/2016 – 1st Edition 5060008.0.04 / 809850266 © BERNINA International AG www.mybernette.com/red-dress Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com...

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