Table of Contents
Advertisement
Quick Links
Advertisement
Table of Contents
Subscribe to Our Youtube Channel
Related Manuals for Bernette b68 AIRLOCK
Summary of Contents for Bernette b68 AIRLOCK
- Page 1 User Manual...
-
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Positioning the Needles Up/Down ........ 31 Important Information ........Threading the Needle Manually ........32 Sewing Assistance ........... 33 My bernette ............11 Using the Thread Cutter ..........33 Machine Overview ..........11 Needle Pad ..............33 Overview - Front ............ - Page 4 Table of Contents Setting Overlocking «N» ..........2-Thread Overlock Narrow (RN) ........84 Setting Rolled Hem «R» ..........2-Thread Chainstitch ............ 84 3-Thread Overlock (LN) + Chainstitch (RC) ....85 Setting the mtc micro thread control ...... 59 3-Thread Overlock (RN) + Chainstitch (RC) ....85 Setting the Presser Foot Pressure ......
- Page 5 Table of Contents Cleaning the Machine ..........102 Cleaning the Looper Area ........... 103 Cleaning the Air Threader Pipes ........104 Cleaning the Suction Feet ........... 104 Oiling the Machine ............. 104 10.3 Troubleshooting ............. 105 10.4 Technical Specifications .......... 106 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04...
-
Page 6: Important Safety Instructions
Do not look directly into the LED lamp with optical instruments (e. g. magnifying glass). • If the LED lamp is damaged or defective, have the LED lamp checked or repaired at your local authorized bernette dealer. • Switch off the machine before working in the needle area. •... - Page 7 • If the machine is damaged or does not work properly, have the machine checked or repaired by your local authorized bernette dealer. • Keep all ventilation openings of the machine and the foot control free of lint, dust and loose cloth.
- Page 8 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS • Only use this machine with the supplied foot control of type 4C-326G/4C-316B. • Do not insert any objects into the openings of the machine. • Do not place any objects on the foot control. • While sewing, guide the fabric gently. Pulling and pushing the fabric can cause needle breakage.
-
Page 9: Important Information
• When passing on the machine to a third party, enclose the short manual of the machine. Proper Use Your bernette machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper. - Page 10 Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided. CAUTION NOTICE Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided. You will find tips from bernette sewing experts next to this symbol. 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04...
-
Page 11: My Bernette
My bernette My bernette 2.1 Machine Overview Overview - Front Guide Rail Thread Guide Plate Freearm Threader Cover Sewing Light Thread Deflection Fingers Thread Cutter Coverstitch Insert Presser Foot Pressure Wheel Cut-offs Bin Snap-in Opening Needle Thread Take-up Lever Cover... -
Page 12: Overview - Needle Area
My bernette Overview - Needle Area Stitch Plate Thread Guide on the Machine Stitch Plate Screw Thread Guide on the Needle Holder Standard Presser Foot Needle Holder Presser Foot Release Button Needle Screws Presser Foot Bar Needles 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04... -
Page 13: Overview - Presser Foot
My bernette Overview - Presser Foot Presser Foot Sole Shaft Groove Presser Foot Sole Pin Marking: Right Overlock Needle (RN) Presser Foot Spring Marking: Right Coverstitch Needle (RC) Fixing Screw Marking: Center Coverstitch Needle (CC) Presser Foot Shaft Marking: Left Coverstitch Needle (LC) -
Page 14: Overview - Looper Area
My bernette Overview - Looper Area Knife On/Off Upper Looper Cutting Width Dial Lower Looper mtc micro thread control dial Chain Looper Rolled Hem Selection Lever Air Threader Pipes Upper Looper Feed Dog Air Threader Pipes Lower Looper Knife Air Threader Pipes Chain Looper... -
Page 15: Overview - Threading Area
My bernette Overview - Threading Area Threader Cover Air Threader Nozzles Threading Chart Air Threader Lever Knife Cover Insert/Coverstitch Insert Accessories Stored in the Needle Threader Cover Air Threader Connector On/Off Upper Looper On/Off 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04... -
Page 16: Overview - Side Panel
My bernette Overview - Side Panel Carry Handle Stitch Length Setting Retractable Thread Guide Differential Feed Dial Spool Pin Handwheel Spool Holder Air Vents Needle Pad Foot Control-/Power Connection Presser Foot Lifter Main Switch 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04... -
Page 17: Symbols On The Machine
My bernette Symbols on the Machine The symbols on the machine are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine. • Overlock Stitch Formation «OL» • Coverstitch Formation «CS» • Chainstitch Formation «CS» Left Overlock Needle Thread (Left Overlock Needle) Thread Path Yellow «OL»... -
Page 18: Default Values
My bernette Upper Looper Cover (Upper Looper Converter) Upper Looper On/Off Cutting Width (Cutting Width) Stitch Length (Stitch Length) Differential Feed (Differential Feed) Rolled Hem Selection Lever mtc micro thread control Knee Lifter (Free Hand System) (Free Hand System) Foot Pressure... -
Page 19: Overview - Standard Accessories
My bernette 2.2 Overview - Standard Accessories Included Accessories To find more accessories, visit www.bernette.com. Figure Name Purpose Foot Control with Power To connect the machine with the power supply Cable system. To start and stop the machine. To control the sewing speed. -
Page 20: Accessories Behind The Threader Cover
My bernette Figure Name Purpose Retractable Thread Guide For an even unwinding of the thread from the thread cones. Accessories Box To store the supplied accessories as well as optional accessories. Accessories behind the Threader Cover The most often used accessories while sewing are stored behind the threader cover on the machine, so it is always quickly at hand. -
Page 21: Accessories Box
My bernette Accessories Box Figure Name Purpose Overlocker Oil For oiling the looper components. Spool Stabilizer (5 x) To stabilize the thread cone on the spool holder. Spool Net (5 x) To support even unwinding of nylon, rayon, silk or metallic threads from the spool. -
Page 22: Setting Up The Machine
Setting Up the Machine Setting Up the Machine 3.1 Working Area A stable table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the sewing table is important to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands. The recommendation for optimal ergonomics includes matching the table height with the body posture. -
Page 23: Foot Control
Setting Up the Machine 3.3 Foot Control Press the Foot Control By operating the foot control the needle and knife move. The sewing speed can be infinitely adjusted by more or less pressure on the foot control. > To start the sewing process, increase the pressure on the foot control. >... -
Page 24: Open/Close The Threader Cover
Setting Up the Machine Open/Close the Threader Cover The threader cover protects the inserted looper threads during sewing operations. The accessory holder on the inside of the threader cover provides quick access to the most frequently used accessories. > To open the threader cover, push it to the right and swing it forward. >... -
Page 25: Removing/Attaching The Coverstitch Insert For The Slide-On Table
Setting Up the Machine Missing Knife Cover Insert or Coverstitch Insert while Sewing NOTICE Injuries caused by the knife or by the looper movement. Before each sewing, check whether the mounted knife cover insert or the coverstitch insert is attached. Removing/attaching the Coverstitch Insert for the Slide-on Table Prerequisite: •... -
Page 26: Spool Holder
Setting Up the Machine 3.6 Spool Holder Thread cones, foot spools or household spools of all sizes can be placed on the spool holder. Attaching the Spool Holder > To fit the spool holder, press the connection points of the spool holder from the back to the front of the machine and engage them laterally. -
Page 27: Preparing The Thread Guide
Setting Up the Machine Preparing the Thread Guide The thread guide ensures a clean unwinding of the thread from the thread cones. Each thread is guided through a thread guide wire located directly above the thread cone. > To attach the retractable thread guide, insert the thread guide into the provided opening in the spool holder until it clicks. -
Page 28: Place The Spool Disc
Setting Up the Machine Place the Spool Disc The spool disc ensures the stability of the thread spool and the even unwinding of the thread. > Place the thread spool on the spool holder. > Push the flat side of the spool cap over the spool pin to the thread spool. Using the Spool Net The spool net prevents the thread from sliding down from the thread spool and is recommended for special threads. -
Page 29: Lifting The Presser Foot Up/Down With The Knee Lifter
Setting Up the Machine > Lower the presser foot lifter. – The machine is ready for sewing. – The thread tension is active. Lifting the Presser Foot Up/Down with the Knee Lifter Temporarily lifting the presser foot using the knee lifter allows to position the sewing project with both hands. -
Page 30: Needle Area
Setting Up the Machine > Lift the presser foot spring slightly and remove the presser foot. > Lift the presser foot spring slightly and place the new presser foot beneath the shaft groove so that the shaft groove lies exactly above the presser foot pin. >... -
Page 31: Positioning The Needles Up/Down
Setting Up the Machine Damage due to Excessive Tightening of the Screws NOTICE The threads of the needle holder may be damaged. A repair by the authorized bernette dealer is required. > Do not overtighten the needle screws. Prerequisite: •... -
Page 32: Threading The Needle Manually
Setting Up the Machine • to activate the air threader pipes • to change the presser foot > To move the needle manually, turn the handwheel counter-clockwise until the desired needle position is reached. Threading the Needle Manually With the needle threader every needle can be threaded easily. >... -
Page 33: Sewing Assistance
Setting Up the Machine 3.9 Sewing Assistance Using the Thread Cutter The thread cutter is used to cut the threads/thread chain. > Pull the threads/thread chain down from the front into the thread cutter. – The threads/thread chains are held after cutting and are ready for sewing. Needle Pad The needle pad is used to store needles that are not being used. -
Page 34: Attaching/Removing The Knee Llifter
> To remove the knee lifter, pull the knee lifter out of the knee lifter connection without swinging the knee lifter sideways. The swing-out position of the knee lifter can be adjusted at an authorized bernette dealer if required. Attaching/Removing the Cut-offs Bin The cut-offs bin catches the fabric scraps during the sewing process. -
Page 35: Attaching/Removing The Freearm Cover
Setting Up the Machine Attaching/Removing the Freearm Cover The freearm is ideal when working with tubular, closed projects such as cuffs, trouser hems or sleeve ends. The freearm cover closes the gap between the stitch plate and the sewing surface. Prerequisite: •... -
Page 36: Attaching The Decorative Threads Guide
Setting Up the Machine Attaching the Decorative Threads Guide The deco thread guide releases the thread tension adjustment from overstretching the thread. > Press the deco thread guide together slightly and hook it into the left and right recesses in the machine cover. -
Page 37: Sewing Start
Sewing Start Sewing Start 4.1 Check before Starting to Sew In order to start a project successfully, the following steps must be performed: • The machine is switched on, and the presser foot is lifted. • The fabric and the applications have been selected. (see page 37) •... -
Page 38: Needle Thread
Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes. This results in permanent blocking of the pipes. A repair by the authorized bernette dealer is required. > Avoid the use of coated or waxed threads. -
Page 39: Selecting The Needle
Sewing Start 4.4 Selecting the Needle It is recommended to use the needle type ELx705 CF (Chrome Finish) version as they are more durable due to the chrome coating. The machine runs most reliably with these needles because of their second groove. The needles should be replaced regularly. -
Page 40: Needle Overview
Sewing Start Needle Overview Illustration Designation *Size Description Material/Application Coverstitch Needle 80/12 With slightly rounded point, a For overlocking and second groove and chrome coverstitching applications. ELx705 CF 90/14 coating. 100/16 Jersey/Coverstitch Needle 80/12 With slightly rounded point, a For overlocking and second groove and chrome coverstitching on multilayer, ELx705 SUK CF... -
Page 41: Selecting A Stitch
Selecting a Stitch Selecting a Stitch 5.1 Stitch Type With this machine different stitch formations can be set. These stitches are achieved by different configurations of needles and mechanical settings. Overlock Stitch The 3- and 4-Thread Overlock are considered standard overlock stitches for sewing two layers of fabric together, for finishing cut edges, e. g. - Page 42 Selecting a Stitch Finishing Edges The finishing of a fabric edge is mostly used as preparation for open seams or as a decorative edge finish. Stitch Number Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 3 3-Thread Overlock Wide (LN) No. 4 3-Thread Overlock Narrow (RN) No. 9 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Wide (LN)
- Page 43 Selecting a Stitch Seam Seams are at least two layers of fabric, which are usually placed right side on right side and then sewn together. There are two different types of seams. • Closed Seams • Flat Seams Closed Seam For closed seams 3-Thread or 4-Thread Overlock Stitches are suitable, because they loop around both fabric edges and sew them together.
- Page 44 Selecting a Stitch Flatlock for Flat Seams The flatlock forms loops on the upper side of the seam and stitches on the underside. > Thread and set the machine for 2- or 3-Thread Flatlock. > Sew two layers of fabric together (wrong side on wrong side). >...
-
Page 45: Coverstitch
Selecting a Stitch Coverstitch Coverstitch hems on garments, having been sewn with the machine, look very professional. 3- / 4-Thread Coverstitch The coverstitch consists of 2 - 3 needle threads on the right side and 1 looper thread on the wrong side of the fabric. -
Page 46: Chainstitch
Selecting a Stitch Chainstitch Basting The chainstitch is ideal for basting, e.g. in the provisional assembly of garments for fitting, when sewing costumes or with alterations to be made. Due to the loop structure of the stitch, the seam can be undone simply by pulling the looper thread. -
Page 47: Combostitch
Selecting a Stitch Combostitch Seam 3-/2-Thread Overlock with Chainstitch Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 3-Thread Overlock (LN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (CC) No. 3-Thread Overlock (RN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (CC) No. 2-Thread Overlock (LN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (CC) No. 2-Thread Overlock (RN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (CC) No. ... - Page 48 Selecting a Stitch Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 2-Thread Overlock (LN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC) No. 2-Thread Overlock (RN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC) Tab. 3: Recommended stitches for a durable closed seam 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04...
-
Page 49: Stitch Chart
Selecting a Stitch 5.2 Stitch Chart This manual includes a stitch overview with all necessary default settings for each stitch. These default values may vary depending on the used material. > Remove all the needles which are not required. > Set the mtc micro thread control to center position. Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 1... - Page 50 Selecting a Stitch Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 9 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Wide ─ ─ (LN) No. 10 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock ─ ─ Narrow (RN) No. 11 2-Thread Flatlock Wide (LN) ─ ─ No. 12 2-Thread Flatlock Narrow (RN) ─ ─ No. 13 2-Thread Rolled Hem ─...
- Page 51 Selecting a Stitch Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 22 3-Thread Coverstitch Wide ─ ─ ─ (LC-RC) No. 23 3-Thread Coverstitch Narrow ─ ─ ─ (LC-CC) No. 24 3-Thread Coverstitch Narrow ─ ─ ─ (CC-RC) No. 30 3-Thread Picotstitch ─ ─ No. 32 2-Thread Chainstitch (CC) ─...
- Page 52 Selecting a Stitch Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 37 2-Thread Overlock (RN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (CC) No. 38 3-Thread Overlock (LN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC) No. 39 3-Thread Overlock (RN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC) No. 40 2-Thread Overlock (LN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC) No. 41 2-Thread Overlock (RN) + 2-Thread Chainstitch (LC) 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04...
-
Page 53: Machine Settings
Machine Settings Machine Settings 6.1 Preparing the Machine for Overlock or Overlock/Chainstitch Combo The machine can be set up for finishing the fabric edge with fabric cut with just a few movements. Prerequisite: • The looper cover is opened. > Set the «Upper Looper On/Off» to the right. >... -
Page 54: Setting The Cutting Width
Machine Settings Knife «On» (to lift) > Open the threader cover. > Pull the knife away from the stitch plate as far as possible and then lift it backwards to the lock-in position. > Close the threader cover. Setting the Cutting Width The cutting width for the knife position can be adjusted between 5 –... -
Page 55: Adjusting The Stitch Width
Machine Settings Adjusting the Stitch Width The stitch width can be adjusted in two different ways. • Needle Position • Cutting Width Cutting Width Needle Position in Relation to the Cut Edge CW 5 5 mm (13/64") 3 mm (1/8") 7.8 mm (5/16") 10.6 mm (27/64") CW 6... -
Page 56: Setting The Upper Looper On/Off
Machine Settings 6.4 Setting the Upper Looper On/Off Activating the Upper Looper Prerequisite: • Threader cover is opened. > Set the «Upper Looper On/Off» to the right. > Turn the handwheel until the upper looper is activated. – Upper looper is activated. >... -
Page 57: Upper Looper Converter Hooked In/Hooked Out
Machine Settings 6.5 Upper Looper Converter Hooked in/Hooked out By attaching the upper looper converter, the upper looper grabs the lower looper thread so that it covers the entire fabric edge. Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. •... -
Page 58: Rolled Hem Selection Lever "N/R
Machine Settings 6.7 Rolled Hem Selection Lever «N/R» Depending on the application, the rolled hem selection lever must be set to the appropriate position. Setting Overlocking «N» During overlocking, the upper and lower looper threads are laid around the stitch finger and this creates an even distance to the cut edge. -
Page 59: Setting The Mtc Micro Thread Control
Machine Settings 6.8 Setting the mtc micro thread control The mtc micro thread control affects the amount of the looper thread around the fabric edge and can be adjusted continuously while sewing. This feature makes it easy to achieve a well-balanced stitch at any given cutting width. -
Page 60: Setting The Presser Foot Pressure
Machine Settings 6.9 Setting the Presser Foot Pressure The pressure foot pressure on the machine has been set by the factory so that it is optimal to sew medium- weight fabrics. Most materials do not require any adjustment of the presser foot pressure. In some cases, it is required to make adjustments such as when sewing very light or heavy fabrics. -
Page 61: Adjusting The Differential Feed
Machine Settings 6.10 Adjusting the Differential Feed The differential feed prevents unwanted puckering or wavering in knitted or stretch fabrics as well as shifting of fabric layers. The setting values describe the ratio of movement of front feed dog relative to the rear feed dog. -
Page 62: Gathering/Gather To Fit "1.5
Machine Settings Gathering/Gather to fit "1.5 – 2" At a setting of 1.5 - 2 the front feed dog (2) covers a longer distance than the rear feed dog (1). Gathering > To gather intentionally, increase the differential feed to a value between 1.5 and 2. Gather to Fit >... -
Page 63: Stretching "0.6
Machine Settings Stretching "0.6" The front feed dog (0.6) covers a shorter distance than the rear feed dog (1). The material is stretched under the presser foot which helps to reduce puckering. This setting can also be used to deliberately stretch the material. -
Page 64: Threading
Threading Threading The threading sequence is important for the correct stitch formation. 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04... -
Page 65: Preparing For Threading
Threading 7.1 Preparing for Threading Before threading, make sure that the machine settings match with the required stitch. The machine has color-coded threading paths. Correct threading is ensured when following the color markings. Prerequisite: • The retractable thread guide is fully extended. •... -
Page 66: Threading The Needle Thread
Threading 7.2 Threading the Needle Thread Detailed information can be found in the stitch chart. Threading the Left Overlock Needle Thread LN/Yellow The left needle thread path is marked in yellow. Prerequisite: • Threading is prepared. > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up through the rearmost opening of the thread deflection finger. -
Page 67: Threading The Right Overlock Needle Thread Rn/Green
Threading Threading the Right Overlock Needle Thread RN/Green The right needle thread path is marked green. Prerequisite: • Threading is prepared. • The left needle thread is threaded. > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up through the center opening of the thread deflection finger. -
Page 68: Threading The Left Coverstitch Needle Thread Lc/Yellow
Threading Threading the Left Coverstitch Needle Thread LC/Yellow The left coverstitch needle thread is marked in yellow all along the thread path. Prerequisite: • «Threading is prepared». > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the back left through the rearmost opening of the thread deflection finger. -
Page 69: Threading The Center Coverstitch Needle Thread Cc/Green
Threading Threading the Center Coverstitch Needle Thread CC/Green The center coverstitch needle thread is marked in green all along the thread path. Exception: For a combostitch with chainstitch, the yellow thread path must be followed for the center coverstitch needle thread. -
Page 70: Threading The Right Coverstitch Needle Thread Rc/Blue
Threading Threading the Right Coverstitch Needle Thread RC/Blue The right coverstitch needle thread is marked in blue all along the thread path. Prerequisite: • «Threading is prepared». > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the back left through the first opening of the thread deflection finger. -
Page 71: Threading The Looper Thread
Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes. This results in permanent blocking of the pipes. A repair by the authorized bernette dealer is required. Detailed information can be found in the stitch chart. - Page 72 Threading > Place the end of the thread approx. 1.2 cm into the corresponding air threader nozzle. > Press and hold the air threader button. – Thread feed is started. – The looper thread is shot through the air threader pipe and exits at the looper tip. >...
-
Page 73: Threading The Looper Thread With An Auxiliary Thread
Damage by Improper Use of the Threading Wire NOTICE The air threader pipes may be damaged. A repair by the authorized bernette dealer is required. > Insert and pull through the threading wire only in the thread flow direction. Prerequisite: •... -
Page 74: Changing The Thread
Threading 7.4 Changing the Thread Knotting Thick Thread Tying on two thread ends is often used for changing a needle thread or looper thread. Keep the knotted area as little as possible to reduce friction. Pulling a Thread Tie through the Needle Eye NOTICE The needle can be bent. -
Page 75: Changing The Looper Thread
Threading > Tie the threaded thread to the new thread. > Pull the threaded end of the thread until the newly knotted thread is in front of the needle eye. > Cut off the new thread behind the knotting. > Remove the excess thread from the needle eye. >... -
Page 76: Sewing Test
Sewing Test Sewing Test To check the optimal setting, a sewing test should be sewn on a spare piece of the fabric used for your project. The default values of the stitches represent recommendations that work for most standard applications. Depending on the result of the sewing test, fine adjustments for stitch optimization are possible. -
Page 77: Optimizing Stitches
Sewing Test 8.4 Optimizing Stitches 4-Thread Overlock with Integrated Safety Seam Stitch Formation Measures Looper threads (red/blue) form > Reduce LL-thread tension (red). > Increase UL-thread tension (blue). loops on the bottom side of fabric. Looper threads (red/blue) form > Reduce UL-thread tension (blue). >... -
Page 78: 3-Thread Overlock Wide (Ln)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce LN-thread tension (yellow). The seam puckers. > Reduce RN-thread tension (green). > Set the differential feed between 1 and 0.6 (stretching). > Reduce the stitch length SL. 3-Thread Overlock Wide (LN) Stitch Formation Measures >... -
Page 79: 3-Thread Flatlock Wide (Ln)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce RN-thread tension (green). The seam puckers. > Set the differential feed between 1 and 0.6 (stretching). > Reduce the stitch length SL. 3-Thread Flatlock Wide (LN) Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce LN-thread tension (yellow). Upper looper thread (blue) extends >... -
Page 80: 3-Thread Narrow Seam
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce LL-thread tension (red). The seam puckers. Lower looper thread (red) too tight. > Reduce RN-thread tension (green). Needle thread (green) doesn't reach > Increase UL-thread tension (blue). the fabric edge. > Increase LL-thread tension (red). >... -
Page 81: 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Wide (Ln)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Increase the cutting width CW. The fabric edge doesn't curl as > Increase LL-thread tension (red). intended. > Increase UL-thread tension (blue). > Reduce the stitch length SL. > Check the rolled hem selection N/R position. >... -
Page 82: 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Narrow (Rn)
Sewing Test 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Narrow (RN) Stitch Formation Measures Looper thread (red) wraps fabric > Increase LL-thread tension (red). > Reduce the mtc mircro thread control. edge too loosely. > Increase the cutting width CW. > Reduce LL-thread tension (red). Looper thread (red) wraps fabric >... -
Page 83: 2-Thread Flatlock Narrow (Rn)
Sewing Test 2-Thread Flatlock Narrow (RN) Stitch Formation Measures Lower looper thread (red) extends > Increase LL-thread tension (red). > Reduce RN-thread tension (green). over the fabric edge to the bottom. Needle thread (green) doesn't reach > Reduce RN-thread tension (green). >... -
Page 84: 2-Thread Overlock Narrow (Rn)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce LN-thread tension (yellow). Needle thread (yellow) doesn't > Increase LL-thread tension (red). reach the fabric edge. > Reduce LL-thread tension (red). Lower looper thread (red) doesn't > Increase LN-thread tension (yellow). reach the fabric edge. Needle thread (yellow) extends over >... -
Page 85: 3-Thread Overlock (Ln) + Chainstitch (Rc)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Increase the CL Thread Tension (purple). Chain looper (purple) thread loose > Check threading path. on the bottom side of fabric. 3-Thread Overlock (LN) + Chainstitch (RC) Stitch Formation Measures Looper threads (red/blue) form >... -
Page 86: 2-Thread Overlock (Ln) + Chainstitch (Rc)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Increase RC-Thread tension (yellow). Chainstitch needle thread (yellow) > Reduce the CL Thread Tension (purple). forms loops on the bottom side of > Reduce the stitch length SL. the fabric. > Check threading path. >... -
Page 87: 2-Thread Overlock (Rn) + Chainstitch (Rc)
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Increase the mtc micro thread control. The fabric edge forms a tunnel or > Reduce the cutting width CW. curls. > Reduce LN-Thread tension (green. > Reduce LL-thread tension (red). > Check the rolled hem selection N/R position. >... -
Page 88: 4-Thread Coverstitch
Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce RC-Thread tension (yellow). The seam puckers. > Reduce the CL Thread Tension (purple). > Set the differential feed between 1 and 0.6 (stretching). > Reduce the stitch length SL. 4-Thread Coverstitch Stitch Formation Measures >... -
Page 89: 3-Thread Coverstitch Narrow (Lc-Cc)
Sewing Test 3-Thread Coverstitch Narrow (LC-CC) Stitch Formation Measures Needle thread (yellow or green) > Reduce the CL Thread Tension (purple). > Increase the stitch length SL. forms loops on bottom side of the > Check threading path. fabric. > Increase the CL Thread Tension (purple). Chain looper (purple) thread loose >... - Page 90 Sewing Test Stitch Formation Measures > Reduce UL-thread tension (blue). Upper looper thread (blue) wraps > Reduce the stitch length SL. fabric edge too tightly. > Increase LL-thread tension (red). Lower looper thread (red) not > Increase RN-thread tension (green). straight along the needle thread.
-
Page 91: Practical Overlocking
Practical Overlocking Practical Overlocking In this chapter the most important applications for a successful sewing project are described. More advanced sewing techniques are described in the BERNINA overlocker manual and can be purchased from authorized BERNINA dealers. 9.1 Securing Overlock Stitches Securing stitches is particularly important when seam ends are not secured by other seams or hems. -
Page 92: Securing Overlock Stitches
Practical Overlocking Securing Overlock Stitches > Sew a thread chain of about 10 cm beyond the end of the seam. > Pull the thread chain end through the looper threads using a loop flip or a tapestry needle. Knotting the Overlock chain Knotting the overlock chain is the safest way to prevent the stitch from opening. -
Page 93: Securing Coverstitches
Practical Overlocking > Remove the left overlock needle thread in the same way. – The looper threads lie loosely around the fabric edge and can be pulled away easily. 9.3 Securing Coverstitches Securing stitches is particularly important when seam ends are not secured by other seams or hems. The stitches are secured when they are overstitched. -
Page 94: Securing The Stitches At The Seam End And Detaching The Thread Chain
Practical Overlocking Securing Chainstitches at Seam End: To secure the chainstitch at the end of the seam, the needle thread need to be pulled through the loop of the looper thread first and then knotted with the end of the looper thread on the wrong side of the fabric. >... -
Page 95: How To Undo Coverstitches
Practical Overlocking 9.4 How to Undo Coverstitches Cover- and chainstitches are loops which are formed by the intertwining of looper thread and needle threadfs. Undoing Coverstitches > On the wrong side of the fabric, pull the looper thread out of the thread chain at the seam end. >... -
Page 96: Flatlock
Practical Overlocking > Guide the edge of the hem along one of the markings on the coverstitch insert and sew. – The hem is sewn and finished on the wrong side at the same time. > Cut back any excess seam allowance. 9.6 Flatlock The flatlock forms loops on the upper side of the seam and stretch stitches on the underside. -
Page 97: Joining Seams
Practical Overlocking 9.7 Joining Seams > Thread and set the machine for a cover- or chainstitch. > Adjust the stitch length to be suitable for the fabric. > Place the fabric under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. >... -
Page 98: Topstitching Seams
Practical Overlocking 9.9 Topstitching Seams To topstitch overlock seams, the coverstitch is suitable in all elastic materials. Ideal for sweatshirts, jersey dresses, jackets, knitted coats and patchworked garments. > Place the seam to one side or iron it. > Topstitch close along the edge on the right of the sewing project. >... -
Page 99: Gathering A Seam
Practical Overlocking 9.11 Gathering a Seam Single layers of thin fabric can be gathered with the chainstitch. > Increase differential deed 9.12 Sew Outer Corners How to Sew over a Corner > Set the machine for a 2-, 3- or 4-Thread Overlock. >... -
Page 100: Sewing Inner Corners
Practical Overlocking > Move the rolled hem selection lever to position «R». – The thread loops are loosened from the stitch finger. > Turn the fabric counterclockwise. – The trimmed edge of the fabric is in the sewing direction under the presser foot. >... -
Page 101: Sew Outer Curves And Circles
Practical Overlocking > While sewing, stretch the curve carefully so it is straight. 9.15 Sew Outer Curves and Circles > Cut away the seam allowance in one place along the length of the presser foot. > Start and end the seam at the cut seam allowance. –... -
Page 102: Appendix
> Remove fabric scraps and thread remnants using a vacuum cleaner with soft tip. Cleaning the Machine The service life of the machine depends on the care and maintenance. Based on normal household use, an annual service at the authorized bernette dealer is recommended. Recommended aids: • Damp Cloth •... -
Page 103: Cleaning The Looper Area
Appendix Cleaning the Looper Area Dust, fabric and thread remnants accumulate in the looper area during coverstitching. They should be removed regularly. Prerequisite: • The presser foot is raised. • The needles are in the top position. • The machine is switched off. >... -
Page 104: Cleaning The Air Threader Pipes
The air threader pump may be damaged permanently if liquids infiltrate the system. A repair by the authorized bernette dealer is required. > Keep liquids way from the air threader nozzles. > Regularly lubricate recommended areas with a drop of the supplied bernette. 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04... -
Page 105: Troubleshooting
Appendix 10.3 Troubleshooting Fault Solution > Elongate the stitch length. Fabric does not feed well. > Increase the presser foot pressure for heavyweight fabric. > Decrease the presser foot pressure for lightweight fabrics. > Check the setting of the differential feed. Needle breaks >... -
Page 106: Technical Specifications
Appendix Fault Solution > Replace the knife. Knife defective Machine not running > Connect machine to the power source and switch it on. > Close the looper cover. 10.4 Technical Specifications Name Value Unit Number of stitches Number of loopers Number of needles 1−... - Page 108 2022-05 EN 50400685.00A.04 © BERNINA International AG www.bernette.com/b68AIRLOCK Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com...
Need help?
Do you have a question about the b68 AIRLOCK and is the answer not in the manual?
Questions and answers