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Related Manuals for Bernette Airlock b64
Summary of Contents for Bernette Airlock b64
- Page 1 User manual...
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Page 3: Table Of Contents
Sewing Assistance ........... 30 Important information ........Using the thread cutter ..........30 Attaching/removing the knee lifter ....... 30 My bernette Overlocker ........Attaching/removing the cut-offs bin ......31 Machine overview ..........Attaching/removing the freearm cover ......31 Front view .............. - Page 4 Table of Contents Adjusting the Differential Feed ....... 49 Appendix .............. 77 Default value "1" ............10.1 Storing and transporting the machine ..... 77 Gathering "1.5 – 2" ........... Storing the machine ............. 77 Stretching "0.6" ............Transporting the machine ..........77 Setting the Stitch Length ........
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Page 5: Important Safety Instructions
Do not view the LED light directly with optical instruments (e.g. magnifier). The LED light corresponds with protection class 1M. • When the LED light is damaged or defective, contact your bernette specialist dealer. To reduce the risk of injury: •... - Page 6 • Never use damaged needles. • Always use the original bernette stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage. • To disconnect, turn power switch to "0"and then remove the plug from the outlet.
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Page 7: Important Information
• When passing on the machine to a third party, enclose the short manual of the machine. Proper use Your bernette machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper. - Page 8 Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided. CAUTION Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided. NOTICE You will find tips from bernette sewing experts next to this symbol. 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04...
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Page 9: My Bernette Overlocker
My bernette Overlocker My bernette Overlocker 2.1 Machine overview Front view Freearm Cover Thread Tension Adjustment Guide Rail Thread Deflection Fingers Freearm Thread Guiding Plate Sewing Light (LED) Knife Cover Insert Thread Cutter Threader Cover Presser Foot Presser Wheel Cut-offs Bin... -
Page 10: Overview - Needle Area
My bernette Overlocker Overview - Needle area Stitch Plate Thread Guide on the Headframe Stitch Plate Screw Needle Holder Standard Overlock Presser Foot Needle Screws Presser Foot Release Lever (red) Thread Guide on the Needle Holder Presser Foot Bar Needles ELx705... -
Page 11: Overview Presser Foot
My bernette Overlocker Overview Presser Foot Presser Foot Sole Presser Foot Shaft Presser Foot Sole Pin Shaft groove Presser Foot Spring Right Needle position (RN) Fixing screw Left Needle position (LN) 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04... -
Page 12: Overview - Looper Area
My bernette Overlocker Overview - Looper area Knife Feed Dog Cutting Width Dial Upper Looper Knife On/Off Lower Looper mtc Micro Thread Control Dial Upper Looper Air Threader Pipe Rolled Hem Selection Lever Air Threader Duct Lower Looper 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04... -
Page 13: Overview Threading Area
My bernette Overlocker Overview Threading area Threader Cover Air Threader Nozzles Threading Chart Air Threader Lever Knife Cover Insert Accessories in the Threader Cover Air Threader Connector On/Off 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04... -
Page 14: Overview - Side Panel
My bernette Overlocker Overview - Side panel Carry Handle Differential Feed Dial Retractable Thread Guide Handwheel Spool Pin Air Vents Spool Pin Foot control-/ power connection Needle Pad Power Switch Presser Foot Lifter Connection for Knee Lifter (FHS) Stitch Length Setting... -
Page 15: Symbols
My bernette Overlocker Symbols The symbols are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine. Left Needle Thread Thread path yellow Right Needle Thread Thread path green Upper Looper Thread Thread path blue Lower Looper Thread... -
Page 16: Overview - Standard Accessories
My bernette Overlocker 2.2 Overview - standard accessories Included accessories Visit www.mybernette.comfor more accessories information. Illustration Name Purpose Power Cable and Foot To connect the machine with the power supply Control Cable system and the Foot Control. Cut-offs Bin To collect resulting scraps. -
Page 17: Accessories Behind The Threader Cover
My bernette Overlocker Accessories behind the Threader Cover The most often used accessories while sewing are stored behind the Threader Cover on the machine, so it is always quickly at hand. Illustration Name Purpose Needle Set ELx705 CF For the most frequently used Overlock applications, (3 x No. 80, 2 x No. 90) -
Page 18: Accessories Box
My bernette Overlocker Accessories Box Illustration Name Purpose Accessories box To store the supplied accessories as well as the optional accessories. Overlocker oil For oiling the looper components. (see page 80) Spool Stabilizers (4 x) To stabilize the thread cone on the Thread Stand. - Page 19 My bernette Overlocker Illustration Name Purpose Decorative Thread To sew with decorative threads for particularly Guide wide and long stitches, for seams and edge finishing. 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04...
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Page 20: Setting Up The Machine
Setting up the machine Setting up the machine 3.1 Working area A stable table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the sewing table is an important point to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands. The recommendation for this includes matching the height of the table and the body posture. -
Page 21: Switching The Machine And Sewing Light On/Off
Setting up the machine Switching the machine and sewing light on/off > Set the Power Switch to «I». – The machine and the Sewing Light switch on. > Turn the Power Switch to «0». – The machine switches off. – The sewing light switches off time-delayed to the machine. 3.3 Foot control Press the foot control By operating the Foot Control the needle and knife move. -
Page 22: Machine Covers
Setting up the machine 3.5 Machine covers The machine covers protect against injuries caused by moving components and prevent fragile elements from being damaged. All covers must be fitted or closed prior to sewing. • Needle Threader Cover • Knife Cover Insert Open/close the Threader Cover The Threader Cover protects the inserted looper threads during sewing operations. -
Page 23: Preparing The Thread Guide
Setting up the machine Preparing the Thread Guide The Thread Guide ensures a clean unwinding of the thread from the thread cones. Each thread is guided through a Thread Guide Wire located directly above the thread cone. > To attach the Retractable Thread Guide, insert it into the opening provided in the Thread Stand until it clicks. -
Page 24: Place The Spool Disc
Setting up the machine Place the spool disc The Spool Disc ensures the stability of the thread spool and the even unwinding of the thread. > Place the thread spool on the Thread Stand. > Push the flat side of the Spool Disc over the Spool Pin to the thread spool. Using the spool net The spool net prevents the thread from sliding down from the thread spool and is recommended for special threads. -
Page 25: Presser Foot
Setting up the machine 3.7 Presser foot Positioning the presser foot up/down The lifted presser foot allows you to place the sewing project under the presser foot. The lowered presser foot is a prerequisite for starting to sew. > Lift the Presser Foot Lifter until it engages. –... -
Page 26: Changing The Presser Foot
Setting up the machine Changing the presser foot Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. • The presser foot is raised. > Press the Release Button on the rear side of the Presser Foot Shaft. – The presser foot is released. >... -
Page 27: Needle Holder
Damage due to excessive tightening of the screws NOTICE The threads of the Needle Holder may be damaged. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. > Do not overtighten the Needle Screws. The Needle Holder can hold two needles. The machine is designed for needles of the ELx705 system. Needle sizes between 80 −... - Page 28 Setting up the machine > Guide the Needle Inserter from below over the needle and loosen the Needle Screw using the supplied Screwdriver. > Pull the needle downwards to remove. > Insert the new needle into the Needle Inserter with the flat side facing back. >...
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Page 29: Threading The Needle Manually
Setting up the machine Threading the needle manually With the Needle Threader every needle can be threaded easily. > Hold the Needle Threader with the flat grip side facing up. > Pull the thread horizontally through the slot and hold the end of the thread. >... -
Page 30: Sewing Assistance
Setting up the machine 3.9 Sewing Assistance Using the thread cutter The Thread Cutter is used to cut the threads/thread chain. > Pull the threads/thread chain into the thread cutter and downwards. – The threads/thread chains are held after cutting and are ready for sewing. Attaching/removing the knee lifter Temporarily lifting the presser foot using the Free Hand System allows the sewing project to be repositioned using both hands. -
Page 31: Attaching/Removing The Cut-Offs Bin
Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the cut-offs bin The Cut-offs Bin catches the fabric scraps during the sewing process. > To attach the Cut-offs Bin, hook the Cut-offs Bin into the snap-in opening on the Looper Cover. > To remove the Cut-offs Bin, lift the Cut-offs Bin out of the snap-in opening on the Looper Cover. Attaching/removing the freearm cover The freearm is ideal when working with tubular, closed projects such as cuffs, trouser hems or sleeve ends. -
Page 32: Attaching/Removing The Slide-On Table
Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the Slide-on Table The Slide-on Table increases the sewing surface, especially helpful with larger sewing projects. Prerequisite: • Freearm Cover is attached. > To attach the Slide-on Table, push the Slide-on Table along the Guide Rails from the left until it engages. >... -
Page 33: Sewing Start
Sewing start Sewing start 4.1 Check before starting to sew In order to start a project successfully, the following steps must be performed. • The machine is switched on and the presser foot is lifted. • The fabric and the application have been selected. (see page 33) •... -
Page 34: Needle Thread
Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the Air Threader Pipes, which results in permanent blocking of the pipes. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. Avoid the use of coated or waxed threads. -
Page 35: Selecting The Needle
Sewing start 4.4 Selecting the needle It is recommended to use the Needle Type ELx705 CF (Chrome Finish) version, as they are more durable.The machine runs most reliably with these needles because of their second groove. Coverstitch Needle ELx705 CF/80 two thread grooves 705 = Flat shank CF = Chrome Finish... -
Page 36: Detect Defective Needles
Sewing start Detect defective needles Check the needle before each sewing start and replace it if necessary. Bent needle Blunt needle Damaged needle point Needle Overview Illustration Designation *Size Description Material/Application Coverstitch Needle 80/12 With slightly rounded point, a For overlock and coverstitch second groove and chrome work. -
Page 37: Stitch
Stitch Stitch 5.1 Stitch type With this machine different stitch formations can be set. These stitches are achieved by different configurations of needles and mechanical settings. Overlockstitch The 3- and 4-thread overlock are considered standard Overlock Stitches for sewing two layers of fabric together, for finishing cut edges, e. ... -
Page 38: Select Stitch By Application
Stitch Select stitch by application Edge serging The finishing of a fabric edge is mostly used as preparation for open seams or as a decorative edge finish. Stitch number Stitch name Stitch pattern No. 3 3-thread overlock wide (LN) No. 4 3-thread overlock narrow (RN) No. 8 3-thread rolled hem No. 9... - Page 39 Stitch Seam Seams are at least two layers of fabric, which are usually placed right side on right side and then sewn together. There are two different types of seams. • Closed seams • Flat seams Closed seam For closed seams 3-thread or 4-thread overlock stitches are suitable, because they loop around both fabric edges and sew them together.
- Page 40 Stitch Flatlock for flat seams The flatlock forms loops on the upper side of the seam and stitches on the underside. > Thread and set the machine for 2- or 3-thread flatlock. > to sew two layers of fabric together (wrong side on wrong side). >...
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Page 41: Stitch Chart
Stitch 5.2 Stitch Chart This manual includes a Stitch Overview with all necessary default settings for each stitch. These default values may vary depending on the used material. > Remove all the needles which are not required. > Set the mtc Micro Thread Control to «-». Stitch name Stitch pattern No. 1... - Page 42 Stitch Stitch name Stitch pattern No. 12 2-thread flatlock narrow (RN) ─ No. 13 2-thread rolled hem ─ No. 14 2-thread overlock wide (LN) ─ No. 15 2-thread overlock narrow (RN) ─ No. 30 3-thread picot stitch ─ 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04...
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Page 43: Machine Settings
Machine settings Machine settings 6.1 Setting the knife Knife On/Off For a better overview and better access in the sewing area, e. g. for threading, the knife can be lowered (off) and then engaged again (on). The knife is also lowered if the sewing project already has a clean cut edge and the edge is only to be finished. -
Page 44: Setting The Cutting Width
Machine settings Setting the Cutting Width The Cutting Width for the knife position can be adjusted between 3 – 7 mm. The numbers on the scale correspond with the actual Cutting Width in mm from the Left Overlock Needle «LN» to the cutting edge. The Cutting Width is used to determine the stitch width. The set Cutting Width is indicated at the Cutting Width Dial. -
Page 45: Upper Looper Converter Hooked In/Hooked Out
Machine settings 6.2 Upper Looper Converter hooked in/hooked out By attaching the Upper Looper Converter, the Upper Looper grabs the Lower Looper Thread so that it covers the entire fabric edge. Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. •... -
Page 46: Rolled Hem Selection Lever "N/R
Machine settings 6.3 Rolled Hem Selection Lever «N/R» Depending on the application, the Rolled Hem Selection Lever must be set to the appropriate position. The adjustment positions for overlocking «N» and rolled hems «R» are marked in the Stitch Plate and can be set there for the desired application. -
Page 47: Setting The Mtc Micro Thread Control
Machine settings 6.4 Setting the mtc Micro Thread Control The mtc Micro Thread Control affects the amount of the Looper Thread around the fabric edge and can be adjusted continuously while sewing. This feature makes it easy to achieve a well-balanced stitch at any given Cutting Width. -
Page 48: Setting The Presser Foot Pressure
Machine settings 6.5 Setting the Presser Foot Pressure The Pressure Foot Pressure has been set by the factory so that it is optimal to sew medium-weight fabrics.Most materials do not require any adjustment of the Presser Foot Pressure. However, there are some cases where adjustment is necessary, such as when sewing very light or heavy fabrics. -
Page 49: Adjusting The Thread Tension
Machine settings 6.7 Adjusting the thread tension The Thread Tension has a considerable influence on each individual thread and its task to perform the stitch formation. The Stitch Chart provides a recommended default value for each stitch. This recommendation can be optimized for different thread/fabric combinations. -
Page 50: Default Value "1
Machine settings Default value "1" In a default value of 1, the machine achieves optimum sewing results with most applications. The Differential Feed in default setting 1 for flat and even seams. Gathering "1.5 – 2" At a setting of 1.5 - 2 the Front Feed Dog (2) covers a longer distance than the Rear Feed Dog (1). Gathering >... -
Page 51: Stretching "0.6
Machine settings Gather to fit > To prevent waving increase the Differential Feed to a value between 1 and 2. Stretching "0.6" The Front Feed Dog (0.6) covers a shorter distance than the Rear Feed Dog (1). The material is stretched under the presser foot which helps to reduce puckering. -
Page 52: Setting The Stitch Length
Machine settings 6.9 Setting the Stitch Length The stitch length can be infinitely adjusted between 1.0 – 5.0 mm while sewing. > To elongate the stitch, set the Stitch Length Knob to a higher value. > To shorten the stitch, set the Stitch Length Knob to a lower value. 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04... -
Page 53: Threading
Threading Threading This machine is equipped with an Air Threader System, which quickly and easily threads the Upper and the Lower Looper Threads by pressing the threader button. There is no specific sequence required for threading the Looper Threads. The Needle Threads must be threaded according to a defined threading sequence. >... -
Page 54: Air Threader
Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the Air Threader Pipes, which results in permanent blocking of the pipes. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. Avoid the use of coated or waxed threads. -
Page 55: Threading The Looper Threads Ul/Blue, Ll/Red
Threading Threading the Looper Threads UL/blue, LL/red Due to the Air Threader all of the Looper Threads can be threaded in one step. Prerequisite: • (see page 53) • Threader Cover is opened. • Upper Looper Cover hooked in/hooked out is checked. >... - Page 56 Threading > Place the end of the thread approx. 1.2 cm into the corresponding Air Threader Nozzle. > Press and hold the Air Threader Button. – The automatic thread feed into the Air Threader starts. – The Looper Thread is shot through the Air Threader Pipe and exits at the Looper Tip. >...
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Page 57: Threading The Looper Thread With An Auxiliary Thread
NOTICE Damage by improper use of the Threading Wire The Air Threader Pipes may be damaged. A repair by the Authorized bernette dealer is required. > Insert and pull through the Threading Wire only in the thread flow direction. Prerequisite: •... -
Page 58: Threading The Needle Thread
Threading 7.3 Threading the needle thread For the needles inserted in the needle holder, color-coded threading paths are assigned. Threading the Right Needle Thread RN/green The Right Needle Thread Path is marked green. Prerequisite: • (see page 53) > Pull the thread beneath the Thread Guide Plate to the left and up between the backmost opening of the Thread Deflection Finger. -
Page 59: Threading The Left Needle Thread Ln/Yellow
Threading Threading the Left Needle Thread LN/yellow The Left Needle Thread Path is marked yellow. Prerequisite: • The Right Needle Thread is threaded. • The «Threading preparation» has been performed. (see page 53) > Pull the thread beneath the Thread Guide Plate to the left and up through the center opening of the Thread Deflection Finger. -
Page 60: Thread Change
Threading 7.4 Thread change Knotting thick thread Tying on threads is often used for changing needle thread or Looper threads. (see page 61) Keep the knotted area as little as possible to reduce friction. NOTICE Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye The needle can be bent. -
Page 61: Changing The Needle Thread
Threading Changing the needle thread NOTICE Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye The needle can be bent. A bent needle affects the stitch formation. > Cut the tie in front of the needle eye and thread the needle individually. >... -
Page 62: Sewing Test
Sewing test Sewing test To check the optimal setting, a sewing test should be sewn on a spare piece of the fabric used for your project. The default values of the stitches represent recommendations that work for most standard applications. Depending on the sewing test, fine adjustments for stitch optimization are possible. -
Page 63: 3-Thread Overlock
Sewing test 4-/3-thread Overlock With a balanced stitch formation, the Looper Thread (blue/red) are intertwined at the fabric edge. The Needle Threads (green/yellow) create two straight lines of stitches on the right side of the stitch and appear as dots on the wrong side of the stitch. Stitch pattern Solution The Looper Threads are intertwined on the... -
Page 64: 3-Thread Narrow Seam
Sewing test 3-Thread Narrow Seam With a balanced stitch formation, the looper thread (blue/red) are intertwined at the fabric edge. The needle thread (green) is identifiable on the top side of the stitch as a straight line and on the bottom side of the stitch as points. -
Page 65: 3-Thread Super-Stretch / 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock
Sewing test 3-thread super-stretch / 2-thread wrapped overlock With a balanced stitch formation, the Looper Thread (red) loops around the cutting edge. The Needle Threads (green/yellow) create two straight lines of stitches on the right side of the stitch and appear as dots on the wrong side of the stitch. -
Page 66: 3-Thread Flatlock
Sewing test 3-thread flatlock With a balanced stitch formation, the upper thread (blue) is on the right side of the stitch related to the insertion into the fabric edge. The Lower Looper Thread (red) is parallel to the fabric edge. The Needle Thread (yellow or green) forms a «V»... -
Page 67: 3-Thread Rolled Hem / 3-Thread Picot Stitch
Sewing test 3-thread rolled hem / 3-thread picot stitch With a balanced stitch formation, the upper looper thread (blue) loops around the cutting edge. The Lower Looper thread (red) lies straight along the needle thread on the wrong side of the stitch. The Needle Thread (green) is identifiable on the right side of the stitch as a straight line and on the wrong side of the stitch as points. -
Page 68: 2-Thread Rolled Hem
Sewing test 2-thread rolled hem With a balanced stitch formation, the looper thread (red) loops around the cutting edge. The Needle Thread (green) is identifiable on the right side of the stitch as a straight line and on the wrong side of the stitch as points. -
Page 69: 2-Thread Flatlock / 2-Thread Overlock
Sewing test 2-thread flatlock / 2-thread overlock With a balanced stitch formation, the Lower Looper Thread (red) lies on the right side of the stitch from the needle penetration point to the fabric edge. The Needle Thread (yellow or green) forms a «V» on the wrong side of the stitch related to the insertion into the fabric edge. -
Page 70: Practical Overlocking
Practical overlocking Practical overlocking In this chapter the most important applications for a successful sewing project are described. More advanced sewing techniques are described in the BERNINA Overlocker Manual and can be purchased from Authorized BERNINA dealers. 9.1 Securing overlock stitches The stitches are secured when they are overstitched. -
Page 71: Securing Overlock Stitches
Practical overlocking Securing overlock stitches > Sew a thread chain of about 10 cm beyond the end of the seam. > Pull the thread chain end through the looper threads using a loop flip or a tapestry needle. Knotting the overlock chain Knotting the overlock chain is the safest way to prevent the stitch from opening. -
Page 72: Flatlock
Practical overlocking > With very long seams, cut the thread in the stitch and remove it step by step. > Remove the left overlock Needle Thread in the same way. – The looper threads lie loosely around the fabric edge and can be pulled away easily. 9.3 Flatlock The flatlock forms loops on the upper side of the seam and stretch stitches on the underside. -
Page 73: Gathering
Practical overlocking 9.4 Gathering Ruffling is a gathering or puckering of a seam. Increasing the differential feed > Set the machine for a 4-thread overlock. > Set the Differential Feed to «2». > Set the stitch length to «4.5». > Sew the fabric with this side up on which the ruffling is wanted. >... -
Page 74: Sew Outer Corners
Practical overlocking 9.5 Sew outer corners A neat corner can be achieved by the following two methods. Method 1 > Set the machine for a 2-, 3- or 4-thread overlock. > Sew along the edge of the fabric beyond the corner. >... -
Page 75: Sewing Inner Corners
Practical overlocking > Lower the presser foot and continue sewing. 9.6 Sewing inner corners > Set the machine for a 2- or 3-thread overlock. > Draw sewing lines on both sides of the corner about 5 cm long with the fabric pen. >... -
Page 76: Sew Outer Curves And Circles
Practical overlocking 9.8 Sew outer curves and circles Due to the Differential Feed, the seam can be pulled or pushed into shape for flat, round edges. > Cut away the seam allowance in one place along the length of the presser foot. >... -
Page 77: Appendix
> Remove fabric scraps and thread remnants using a vacuum cleaner with soft tip. Cleaning the machine The service life of the machine depends on the care and maintenance. Based on normal household use, an annual service at the Authorized bernette dealer is recommended. Recommended aids for cleaning: • Damp cloth •... -
Page 78: Cleaning The Looper Area
Appendix Cleaning the Looper Area Dust, fabric and thread remnants accumulate in the looper area during overlocking and these should be removed regularly. Prerequisite: • The presser foot is raised. • The needles are in the top position. • Switch the machine off. >... -
Page 79: Cleaning The Air Threader Pipes
Appendix Cleaning the air threader pipes Regularly remove dust and thread remnants from the air threader pipes. Prerequisite: • Use a thick thread (e.g. Amann Saba C size 30) at a length of about 1 m. > Thread the thread into the Air Threader Nozzle. >... -
Page 80: Oiling The Machine
Appendix Oiling the machine > Regularly lubricate the upper looper joint with a drop of the supplied bernette overlock oil. 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04... -
Page 81: Troubleshooting
Appendix 10.3 Troubleshooting Fault Solution > Lengthen the stitch length. Fabric does not feed well. > Increase the Presser Foot Pressure for heavyweight fabric. > Decrease the Presser Foot Pressure for lightweight fabrics. > Check the setting of the Differential Feed. Needle breaks >... -
Page 82: Specifications
Appendix 10.4 Specifications Designation Value Unit Number of stitches Number of loopers Number of needles 1 ─ 2 Needle System ELx705 Needle Size 80 ─ 100 (12 ─ 16) Differential Feed 0.6 ─ 2.0 Maximum fabric thickness 5.3 (0.23) mm (in) Stitch Length 1.0 ─... - Page 84 2020-09 EN 5040064.00A.04 © BERNINA International AG www.bernette.com/b64AIRLOCK Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com...
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