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A few notes to start with... This build is not for the beginner. Please do not attempt unless you know what you’re doing. The high parts count will make troubleshooting very difficult. The board has been designed so you can easily add a Boner Boost as the post boost, as the original boost section hasn’t won many hearts.
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Leave the pots and switches until last. You won’t have access to much of the underside of the PCB once they’re in place. When soldering these, a good tip is to only attach a single pin of each at first. That way you can easily melt the joint and reposition the pot or switch to get it aligned with the others before attaching the rest.
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Boner Boost The Boner Boost mod utilises component spaces that already exist for the original boost along with a few jumpers. Place parts as listed in the BOM below. Remember Q1 needs to go in the opposite way around to how it is shown on the PCB screen print.
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Power 9V? 18V? Up to you. If you choose to add the optional charge pump that will only have a bearing on the distortion circuit. The boost, whether original or Boner, stays at 9V. NO CHARGE PUMP, CHARGE PUMP, CHARGE PUMP, EVERYTHING 9V DISTORTION 18V DISTORTION 9V/18V...
Connect everything up... Connect everything up but the LEDs. That includes the footswitches. Connect the main PCB to the daughterboard. The pads align perfectly so you have nice straight wire runs. Ensure your power supply is 9V Tip Negative, or connect up a battery for now. If connecting a battery, solder long lengths of wire to the +V and GND pads on the PCB, then attach the battery to the other end of these.
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What about my LEDs? Pre-drilled enclosures are supplied with 3mm holes for the LEDs, rather than larger ones that require a mounting bezel. Why? Because you can hold the LED securely in place with the PCB. When you come to box up your lovely new circuit, get the pots in place first.
Drilling template Recommended drill sizes: Pots Hammond 1590BB (top face measurements) Jacks 10mm Footswitch 12mm 90 x 116 x 27mm (without base) DC Socket 12mm Toggle It’s a good idea to drill the holes for the board- mounted parts 1mm larger to give yourself some wiggle room unless you’re a drill ninja.
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