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Mountain Models Eva Manual

Extremely versatile airframe
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Eva Specifications
Length: 32"
Weight (without battery): ~12oz.
Revision History
Date
6/3/05
Thank you for purchasing the Eva. This plane is an aileron/elevator/rudder (full house)
setup, designed for the intermediate to advanced pilot who wants a plane with
outstanding performance. Due to the number of wing options, the Eva can be flown as a
mild sport flyer, a pattern plane, or a 3D plane. You can quickly and easily swap out
wings.
Sincerely,
Doug Binder
doug@mountainmodels.com
Eva
Extremely Versatile Airframe
Revision Notes/Comments
Document initial creation.
Mountain Models
465 D Street
Penrose, CO 81240
www.mountainmodels.com
Phone: 719.372.6727

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Summary of Contents for Mountain Models Eva

  • Page 1 Due to the number of wing options, the Eva can be flown as a mild sport flyer, a pattern plane, or a 3D plane. You can quickly and easily swap out wings.

  • Page 2: Before You Begin

    Before You Begin Before you begin building your Eva make sure you read and understand all of the instructions thoroughly. Additionally, you will need to have the following items. Check to make sure that all of your parts are there and in good shape, and review a couple quick building tips to make this whole process go quicker and easier.

  • Page 3: General Building Tips

    Number Description of Part in Kit Bagged Parts 4-40 T Nuts 4-40 x 3/8” Phillips Head Bolts #4 Washers LYT43 wheels drilled out to 1/8” 1/2" tail wheel 4-40 x 1” bolts for wheel axles 4-40 Lock Nuts #2 x 3/8” wood screw for motor retainer 6”...

  • Page 4: Assembling The Fuselage

    Assembling the Fuselage To remove the pieces, gently flex the balsa sheets until the pieces fall out. You may find that you need to carefully trim the extra pieces of wood that originally held the piece to the sheet. Press the T nuts into the front former and the landing gear mount. You will need to hammer the T nuts fully in.
  • Page 5 Position the fuselage sides but don’t glue. Tack the fuselage sides to the fuselage bottom by placing a small drop of glue on the joint between the side and the bottom between each bulkhead. Don’t get any glue on the bulkheads. Add the 1/16”...
  • Page 6 Glue the two pushrod guide tubes into position. They should extend just past the forth bulkhead from the rear and just clear the opening in the rear of the fuselage. The top of the turtledeck is made from two pieces of 1/16” balsa glued together to make a “T”.
  • Page 7 11. Wet the 1/32” balsa turtledeck side to make it bend better and glue the top of the 1/32” balsa to the “T” you just installed. 12. Install the other 1/32” balsa turtledeck. Sand the 1/32” balsa that extends past the “T”...
  • Page 8 13. Glue the 1/16” turtledeck top to the “T” then sand it round. 14. Carefully align the 1/16” ply wing spar reinforcements to the sides of the fuselage. 15. Attach the front crutch to the firewall then install both parts into the fuselage. Note that the T nuts are on the same side as the crutch.
  • Page 9 16. Cut two pieces of triangle stock to 1.75” and glue as shown to reinforce the firewall. 17. Glue the four 1/8” balsa rear turtledeck blocks. 18. Sand the blocks to shape.
  • Page 10 19. Sand the fuselage smooth. Round the bottom edges of the fuselage. You will sand deep into the triangle stock to give the bottom a rounded shape. Note where the stock ends so that you don’t sand the rear of the fuselage too much. The front of the fuselage needs to be rounded quite a bit so that the nose cowl will fit.
  • Page 11 Assembling the Stabilizers, Rudder, and Elevator Make the parts look like the images below. The parts are labeled V for vertical stabilizer, H for horizontal stabilizer, R for rudder, and E for elevator. The images are not to scale.
  • Page 12 Sand a bevel in the LE of the rudder (left side furthest forward) and the TE of the horizontal stabilizer. Attach the elevators with a piece of 3/16” dowel. Determine the dowel length by using the horizontal stabilizer as a guide.
  • Page 13 Shaping the Tail Wheel Wire and Attaching it to the Rudder You need to shape the tail wheel wire and attach it to the rudder before you attach the rudder to the fuselage. Shaping the tail wheel wire Bend a 1/32” x 2.5” wire following these steps: Needle nose pliers work pretty well to shape the wire.
  • Page 14 5. Note that you do not attach the wheel until the rudder is installed to the fuselage. This happens after the rudder is covered. 6. Press the tailwheel wire into the front of the rudder ½” from the bottom. Wrap Tyvek (the white fiber paper) around the wire and secure with thin CA.
  • Page 15 Sand the wheel pants to a nice rounded shape. Paint the wheel pants with a few coats of primer, sanded between coats, then a final color coat. Insert a 4-40 x 1” bolt into a wheel. Screw on one lock nut and tighten to the point just before the wheel binds.
  • Page 16 Draw a centerline down the balsa strip you just glued. Align a 1/32 sheet with the centerline. Note that the 1/32” sheet is not square. One side is cut at an angle. Glue with thin CA to the balsa strip. Dampen the 1/32 sheet so that it will bend around the formers and glue it to the formers.
  • Page 17 200 grit sandpaper for sanding What to Sand This is a fairly small chore for the Eva; apparently the air prefers sharp edges to rounded ones, so we aren’t going to round any of the pieces. Mind you, by sharp edges we don’t mean pokey bits, you ARE going to have to sand those, we just mean non-...
  • Page 18 Covering the Eva Determine what material you’ll use to cover, we recommend using Solite covering material since it is extremely lightweight and won’t crush the balsa when shrinking. Do not shrink the covering until both sides of each part are covered. This reduces your chances of twisting the surfaces.

  • Page 19: Attaching The Control Horns

    Installing the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder Next, you are going to install the vertical stabilizer and rudder. Attaching the Vertical Stabilizer • Position the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the rear turtledeck, making sure that the rear of the stabilizer lines up with the rear of the fuselage and that it’s perpendicular to the elevator.

  • Page 20: Installing The Motor

    Installing the pushrods Cut two pieces of .032” wire 1 1/8” long. Make a small L bend in one end of each wire. The L bend should be about 1/8” long. Lightly sand each wire to ensure a good glue joint later. Insure that the servo is centered.
  • Page 21 The rear firewall mount is for rear mount outrunner motors. If you use the stick mount, retain the motor with the 2-56 wood screw. Attaching the Receiver and Speed Controller We are not going to cover the receiver and speed controller (ESC) specific information, please refer to your manufacturer’s instructions for more information, if necessary.
  • Page 22 The stop on the right is 1/8” ply and is located between the two engraved lines. Install the tray forward end first then slide it into the locked position. Cut the rough side of the Velcro strip down to 5” in length, and attach it to the top of the battery tray so that it’s centered on the battery’s position.
  • Page 23 Attaching the Nose Cowl Trim the nose cowl flush with the rear flange. Carefully open the three openings in the front of the cowl. Attach the cowl to the fuselage with clear tape. Attaching the Wing Mark the middle of the carbon fiber spar. A sharpie works well for this. DO NOT NICK THE SPAR.

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