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BYOC Parametric Multi-Band Compressor Instructions Manual
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BYOC Parametric Multi-Band Compressor Instructions Manual

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Build Your Own Clone
Parametric Multi-Band Compressor
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, INC
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, INC does not
warranty the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
sales@buildyourownclone.com This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer's responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
sales@buildyourownclone.com to receive a return authorization before mailing.

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Summary of Contents for BYOC Parametric Multi-Band Compressor

  • Page 1 This would include any missing parts issues. Return: BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing.
  • Page 2 That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Parametric Multi-Band Compressor Kit Instruction Index Parts Checklist………………………....…..page 6 Populating the Circuit Board……....…...…..page 8 Main PCB Assembly..........page 18 Wiring………………………………......page 21 Installing the IC/Finishing up…………………..page 27 Operation Overview...........page 28 Schematic..............page 29...
  • Page 4 This is what your kit should look like when it’s complete. Your kit may come with different color capacitors, switches ect. Don’t be alarmed by this. They all still do the exact same thing.

  • Page 6: Parts Checklist

    Parts Checklist for Parametric Multi-Band Compressor Kit Resistors (your kit should come with all or mostly smaller 1/8 watt resistors, but may come with some ¼ watt): Metal Film Carbon Comp 1 - 470R (471) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Gold/Brown) or (Yellow/Purple/Brown/Gold) 3 - 4k7 (472)
  • Page 7 2 – C500k 1 – C100k Dual Gang Hardware: 1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4 screws (optional) 1 – Parametric Multi-Band Compressor circuit board 1 - 3pdt footswitch 5 - knobs (optional) 1 - AC adaptor jack 1 - ¼”stereo jack 1 - ¼”...

  • Page 8: Populating The Circuit Board

    Populating the Circuit Board Step 1: Add all the resistors except for the two 224 resistors highlighted in yellow. These need to on the bottom side of the PCB. The “103” resistor highlighted in purple should be a “223” or 22k resistor. This typo will be corrected after Rev1.0. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted in either direction.
  • Page 9 Add the diode. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe to Step 2: the layout on the PCB. The striped end should go in the square solder pad.
  • Page 10 Step 3: Add the 8 pin and two 14 pin IC sockets. ONLY SOLDER THE SOCKET! NOT THE ACTUAL IC! This is a socket. The sockets get soldered to the PCB. The ICs get inserted into the sockets. The actual IC chip itself, never gets soldered. You will insert the IC into the socket after the entire pedal has been built.
  • Page 11 Step5: Add the transistors. Be sure to match the flat side of the transistor with the flat side of the transistor on PCB layout.
  • Page 12 Step 6: Add the film capacitors. These are non-polarized so they can go in either direction.
  • Page 13 Step 7: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized, meaning there is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a longer lead and goes in the square solder pad. The negative side will have a shorter lead and a stripe running along the body of the cap, and goes in the round solder pad.
  • Page 14 Step 8: Add the opto-couplers. An opto-coupler is made up of a standard LED and a LDR (light dependent resistor) joined together in a hermetically sealed capsule. The leads for the LDR stick out of one end, and the leads for the LED stick out of the other.
  • Page 15 Step 9: Add the battery snap. Thread the leads into the strain relief holes first through the bottom side of the PCB. Then insert the leads into their respective solder pad hole on the top side of the PCB. The red lead goes in the + hole and the black lead goes in the – hole.
  • Page 16 At this point your board should look like the picture below. Keep in mind that there should be two 220k (224) resistors on the underside of the PCB. The picture also has all ¼ watt resistors, so most of them are standing on end.
  • Page 17 Step 9: Add wires to the IN, OUT, RING, -, +, (+), and the two Ground eyelets. ê Start by cutting four 2.5” pieces of wire and 4 pieces of 1.5” wire. Strip 1/4” off each end and tin the ends. Tinning means to apply some solder to the stripped ends of the wires. This keeps the strands from fraying and primes the wire for soldering.

  • Page 18: Main Pcb Assembly

    Main PCB Assembly Step 1: Mount the AC adapter jack to the enclosure. Your kit may come with either an external thread or internal thread. Don’t get confused by this. They still function exactly the same. You just thread the external nut on the outside and the internal nut on the inside.
  • Page 19 Step 2: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the five potentiometers and the LED into the bottom side of the PCB. If your pots have covers, remove them before continuing. You might have to cut a slit in the cover with a blade and use a small screwdriver to get leverage. DO NOT SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!! The LED will have one lead that is longer than the other. THIS WILL GO INTO THE SQUARE SOLDER HOLE.
  • Page 20 Step 3: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots, toggle switch and LED all go into their respective holes.

  • Page 21: Wiring

    WIRING Step 6: Connect the TIP (negative) terminal of the DC adapter jack to the eyelet on the PCB labeled “-“. Connect the SLEEVE of the DC adapter jack to the eyelet on the PCB labeled “+” farthest to the right. Connect the battery disconnect terminal of the DC adapter jack to the second eyelet on the PCB labeled “+”...
  • Page 22 Stereo (input) Jack Mono (output) Jack Step 1: Install the 1/4” jacks to the enclosure.
  • Page 23 Step 2: Install the footswitch. Orient the footswitch so that the flat sides of the solder lugs are like the diagram below. NOTE: There are no actual number markings on the footswitch. There are two correct ways you can orient the footswitch. They are both 180 degrees of each other.
  • Page 24 FOOT SWITCH SOLDER LUG DESIGNATIONS Step 3: Wiring the foot switch. Make a jumper between lugs 3 & 6 from clippings from the resistors. • Simply use your needle nose pliers to bend a piece of clipping into a U shape &...
  • Page 25 Cut a two 2” piece of wire. Strip 1/8” off each end and tin. • Strip ¾” off the other end and very carefully tin. You do not want too • much solder on this end. Thread the longer stripped end into LUG4 and through to LUG9. •...
  • Page 26 Step 5: Connect the wires at the top end of the PCB to the IN and OUT jacks. The “out” eyelet will go to the tip of the OUT jack and the “in” eyelet will go to the tip of the IN jack (refer to page 22). Connect the ground eyelet on the left to the sleeve of the IN jack and the ground eyelet on the right to the sleeve of the OUT jack.

  • Page 27: Installing The Ic/Finishing Up

    Installing IC/Finish up Don't forget to add the knobs, put the cover on the enclosure, and apply the bumpers to the cover.

  • Page 28: Operation Overview

    Operating Overview Note: The picture above is of a kit with the optional red paint/white screen print. Hi Level: This controls the volume level of high frequency compressor output. Lo Level: This controls the volume level of the low frequency compressor output. Cross Over Frequency (white knob in the middle): Controls the frequency at where your signal is split into high and low.
  • Page 31 For hi-res schematic visit http://www.byocelectronics.com/pmbcschematic.pdf Please visit http://byocelectronics.com/board for any technical support copyright 2014 BYOC, Inc.