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Summary of Contents for BYOC Phaser
- Page 1 Phaser Kit Instructions Parts Checklist ..page 2 Populating the Circuit Board ..page 3 - 7 Assembly ..page 8 - 9 Wiring ..page 10 - 18 Finish up ..page 19 - 20 Copyright 2005 Build Your Own Clone...
- Page 2 1 - B500k Linear depth pot (fully loaded kit only) Hardware: 1 - enclosure w/ 4 screws 1 - phaser kit circuit board 1 - 3pdt footswitch 2 - dpdt toggle switches (fully loaded kit only) 1 - knob (or 3 with fully loaded kit) 1 - AC adaptor jack 1 - ¼...
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Page 3: Populating The Circuit Board
Step 1: If you are building the fully loaded phaser do no use these 1M and 22k resistors. Replace the 22k with the 18k and the 1M with the 510k. If you are building the base phaser (stock phase 90 with no mods) kit, then use the 22k and 1M resistors. - Page 4 If you don t have enough clippings, come back and do it after step 3. You will definitely have plenty Step 3: Add the rest of the resistors. There is a lot of soldering here. Take your time. Do each resistor one at a time.
- Page 5 There should only be one why that the trim pot that comes with your kit can fit into the slot. You will need to adjust this when you plug in for the first time. The phaser probably won t work till you do.
- Page 6 Step 7: Add the transistors. The 2n5952 s go in the slots highlighted in red and the 2n4125 goes in the slot highlighted in yellow. Step 8: Add the two 10uf aluminum electrolytic caps. These are polarized so make sure you put them in correctly.
- Page 7 Step 9: Add the film caps. These are not polarized so they can go in either way. If you are building the base kit, your kit will not have the .1 and .01uf caps shown in yellow. If you are building the fully loaded kit, add the .1 and .01uf caps.
- Page 8 Assembly Fully loaded kit Base Kit...
- Page 9 1. Install the jacks first. If you are looking down inside the enclosure, the mono jack goes on the right side and the stereo jack goes on the left. Place the washer on the outside of the enclosure. Use a 1/2" wrench to tighten. 2.
- Page 10 On most polarized components such as an LED the positive lead will be longer than the negative. You will need to make solder lugs for your LED by bending the leads into circles (needle-nose pliers work well for this). Insert the leads into the rubber bezel cork before you do this. You will need to clip the leads so that they are not too long, but don't make them so short that they touch the bezel when you insert the LED and cork into the bezel.
- Page 11 NOTE: Steps 1 through 9 are relatively the same for both the fully loaded and base kits even though the position of some of the components may differ. Step 1: Jumper lug3 to lug 6 Step 2: Jumper lug 9 to lug 4 Step 3: Connect lug 4 to the tip of the in jack Step 4: Connect lug 8 to the tip of the out jack Step 5: Connect lug 1 to the negative terminal of the LED...
- Page 12 Step 8: Connect the red battery snap wire to the positive battery terminal of the ac adaptor jack...
- Page 13 Step 9: Connect the blue wires to the C500k rate pot. You will connect the wire from the S3 eyelet to lug 3 of the rate pot. Connect S2 to lug 2 of the rate pot. NOTE: STEPS 10 THROUGH 13 ARE FOR THE FULLY LOADED KIT ONLY. Resume base kit instructions at step 14.
- Page 14 Step 10: Connect the green wires to the 25k feedback pot. You will connect the wire from the FB3 eyelet to lug 3 of the feedback pot. Connect FB2 to lug 2 of the volume pot. Step 11: Connect the gray wires to the 500k Depth pot. You will connect the wire from the D1 eyelet to lug 1 of the depth pot.
- Page 15 Step 12: Wire the 90/45 mod. The wire should be white but is shown here in red. The eyelets are labeled 1 - 6 as are the solder lugs of the toggle switch. You should connect the eyelet number with its matching toggle switch number. When you flip the enclosure over and have the toggle switch in the up position, it will be in 90 mode (4 phase stages).
- Page 16 Step 13: Wire the univibe mod. The wire should be white but is shown here in red. The eyelets are labeled 1 - 6 as are the solder lugs of the toggle switch. You should connect the eyelet number with its matching toggle switch number. When you flip the enclosure over and have the toggle switch in the up position, it will be in script mode (stock MXR).
- Page 17 Step 14: Solder the ground wires. Connect the black wire from the left most eyelet labeled jack to the sleeve of the IN jack. Connect the black wire from the right most eyelet labeled jack to the sleeve of the OUT jack. Connect the black wire from the eyelet labeled SW2 to Lug 2 of the footswitch.
- Page 18 Step 18: Solder the green wire from the in eyelet to lug 5 of the footswitch. Step 19: Solder the brown wire from the out eyelet to lug 7 of the footswitch. Finishing up & Troubleshooting...
- Page 19 1. Test the pedal to make sure it works. You ll need to adjust the 250k trimpot to bias the JFETS. Don t worry about correct voltages. Just turn the trimmer till the sweep of the phase sounds the way you think it should. 2.
- Page 20 2 and then come back to it with a fresh pair of eyes. Then the problem usually jumps right out at you .usually. If you still can t get it working, start a thread on the BYOC forum and ask for help. Copyright 2005. Build Your Own Clone...
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