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The bandsaw blade may wander off the cut line when
sawing, as shown in Figure
Blade lead is commonly caused by too fast of a feed
rate, a dull or abused blade, or improper tension. If your
blade is sharp/undamaged and you still have blade lead,
perform the following instructions.
Use less pressure when feeding the workpiece
through the cut.
Check that the miter slot or fence is parallel to
the blade line, and correct if necessary (refer to
on
).
Check for proper blade tension. If the blade tension
is correct and it is not convenient to replace the
blade, compensate for lead by skewing the fence or
adjusting the table, as explained below.
1. Cut a piece of scrap wood approximately
x 3" wide x 17" long. On a wide face of the board,
draw a straight line parallel to the long edge.
Slide the bandsaw fence out of the way and cut
halfway through the board on the line by pushing it
into the blade. Turn the bandsaw
the blade to stop.
Clamp the board to the bandsaw table without
moving it. Now slide the fence over to the board so
it barely touches one end of the board.
Loosen the four cap screws that secure the fence to
the fence base (see
Skew the fence so it is parallel to the edge of the
scrap piece.
While maintaining the skew, tighten the cap screws
loosened in
.
Make a few cuts using the fence. If the fence still
does not seem parallel to the blade, repeat
until the blade and fence are parallel with each
other.
. This is called blade lead.
and
on
3
⁄
" thick
4
and wait for
).
-58-
. Example of blade leading away
from line of cut.
On a scrap piece of wood, mark a
line that is perpendicular to the front
edge.
Cut halfway through the board on the
line by pushing it into the blade.
Turn the bandsaw
and wait for
the blade to stop.
Loosen the four cap screws that mount
the table to the trunnion (
on
). Shift the table to
compensate for the blade lead, then
retighten the cap screws.
Repeat
until the blade cuts
straight.
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