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ADJUSTMENTS
(Not previously noted)
LOCK
KNOB
WARNING:
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"OFF"
AND
REMOVE
PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE
OUTLET BEFORE MAKING
ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
MITER
GAUGE
NOTE: The holes for the stop pin and the graduations are
manu-[actured to
very
close tolerances which provide
accuracy for average woodworking, in some caseswhere
extreme accuracy is required, when making angle cuts, for
example, make a trial cut and then recheck it.
If necessary, the miter gauge head can be swiveled slightly
to compensate for any inaccuracy.
1. Loosen the "knob"
and pull "stop pin" OUT.
2. Swivel the head ...
position it at "0 °" ...
push the
stop pin IN ... lock the handle.
3.
The HEAD
should be square with the Bar and the
pointer should point to "0".
Readjust the pointer
if
necessary.
4.
If the head is not square with the bar, adjustments are
required.
A.
Loosen the "knob"
(1) and the "two screws" (2)
B. Position
the HEAD square with the BAR using a
combination square.
C. PUSH the STOP PIN into the slot in the head at
"0"...
push the pin into the slot and twist it. Lock
the knob.
D.
Recheck with the square. If the head is still not
square, loosen the screws (2) and readjust the
INDICATOR
BLOCK.
E. With the head square with the bar and the pin
pushed into the slot, adjust the pointer (3) to point
tO "0".
F. The miter gauge head must rest on top of the bar
without being able to move up and down ... yet it
must swivel freely.
G. The
swiveling
movement
of
the head can be
BAR
_
'l_
1,
STOP
PIN
SQUARE
_
INDICATOR
BLOCK
I/8
IN.
SETSCREW
WRENCH
2 "==_
adjusted by tightening or loosening the setscrew (4)
...
using the 1/8 in. setscrew wrench.
NOTE: The setscrew is located inside of the head.
To reach it, swivel the head to 60 degrees and turn
the miter gauge upside down.
HEELING
ADJUSTMENT
or PARALLELISM
OF SAWBLADE
TO MITER GAUGE GROOVE
While cutting, the material must move in a straight line
PARALLEL
to the SAWBLADE
-.-
therefore both the
miter
gauge GROOVE
and the RIP FENCE must be
PARALLEL
to the SAWBLADE.
If the sawblade IS NOT parallel to the miter gaugegroove,
the blade will bind at one end of the cut. (This is known as
"HEELING").
To check for parallelism:
WARNING
- FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"OFF"
AND REMOVE
PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE
OUTLET.
1.
Raise blade all the way up...
raise blade guard.
2. Mark as "x"
on one of the teeth which is SET (bent) to
the LE FT.
3. Place the head of
a combination
square in
the
GROOVE
...
adjust blade of square so that it just
touches the tip of of the MARKED tooth.
4.
Move square to REAR, rotate blade to seeif MARKED
tooth again touches blade of square-
5.
If tooth touches square the same amount at FRONT
and REAR
...
sawblade is PARALLEL
to MITER
GAUGE GROOVE.
23
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