Rear Lamp Brackets; Spare Wheel Bracket; Rear Reflectors; Fuel Cap, Adaptor And Link Pipe - Suffolk SS100 Build Manual

SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013

8.3.10 Rear lamp brackets

Test fit the rear lamp brackets to check the fit is level, remove the brackets and cut a rubber gasket to suit,
this is best cut undersize as they will squash out when fitted. Stamp the three mount holes and a central hole
for the rear lamp wiring. Pass the wiring through the gasket and along the rear lamp bracket tube before
mounting the rear lamp bracket in place with stainless screws and nyloc nuts.

8.3.11 Spare wheel bracket

Now drill the plate behind the body for the spare wheel fixing with three 11.5mm holes prior to fitting the
bracket. The holes in the body are predrilled 1" diameter. To ensure the holes are on the correct centres,
make up or obtain a spacer 1" dia and 1" long with a 4mm hole at the centre. Use this to drill a 4mm pilot
hole square to the plate at each location. Open the holes out in steps to 11.5mm. Remember that behind the
lower hole is the fuel tank. Assemble the remaining splined hub to the spare wheel bracket with 3 7/16"UNF
x 11/4" bolts and nyloc nuts, and fix the whole assembly to the chassis with 7/16"UNF x 2" bolts and nyloc
nuts.

8.3.12 Rear reflectors

Referring to figure 11, dismantle the rear reflectors before drilling and bolting into position, refit the reflector
lens and chrome bezel.
8.3.13 Dummy fuel tank vent and rear hood supports
Check the fit of the dummy fuel vent and rear hood support blocks, then make a rubber gasket to suit which
is best cut undersize, as they will squash out when fitted. If having the stainless steel luggage rack these
brackets will need fitting underneath the hood support brackets.

8.3.14 Fuel cap, adaptor and link pipe

Fit the fuel cap, adapter plate and the length of hose and clips connecting them to the fuel tank neck. Seal the
underside of the fuel cap to stop water getting into the boot area. Tighten the hose clips evenly.
8.3.15 Hood mount spindles
These need mounting with the longer thread outer most, make sure these are tight by locking two M8 nuts on
the outer end as once the trim is in there is no access to the inner nyloc nut.
8.3.16 Heater
Refer to figure 18 and position the heater inside the car using the three holes that are predrilled and
countersunk in the battery tray area. There are three holes in the plastic heater housing that will mate up with
these. Fix the screws into the housing top using the self-tapping screws provided, making sure the water
pipes are on the right side.
Feed the upper rubber heater hose through the predrilled hole in the bulkhead and the bulkhead foam and
cover plate and connect it to the carburetor manifold outlet on the back of the manifold. Feed the lower pipe
through the bulkhead, gasket and plate, this is connected to the rear face of the water pump via the 15mm
copper pipe, this can have an on/off tap fitted half way along and joins to the pump with a another short
length of hose.
8.3.17 Rubber wing beading
Supplied with the wing beading kit are four 'P' clips, start at the rear of the car and fit a 'P' clip on the inner
wing low down at the back to retain the end of the rubber beading. The dummy wing beading can then be
pulled around the bottom of the rear wing and can be attached with super glue, the best glue to use is "Super
Glue GEL" and is bought in tiny 3ml bottles, two bottles should be more then enough.
Note, Take your time and be very careful not to get glue on visible paintwork as it dries white and is usually
impossible to remove.
Use very sparingly about 6 – 8" at a time, then place and hold the beading into position for 15 seconds, Its
good sense to have a practise squeezing out the gel away from the car as all super glues vary in thickness and
delivery speed. When you've got to the front, run the beading around the corner under the bonnet and secure
with another 'P' clip at the bottom of the bulkhead. Repeat on the second side.
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