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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition)
Rev 10 November 2013
clutch pedal and to get the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal, it is not unknown to sometimes need to
shorten the clutch master cylinder pushrod to achieve this. Tighten the 5/16" locknut on the master cylinder
rod to lock the actuating rod.
4.4.4 Rear brake line
Fix the longer brake line (R1) to the offside chassis rail and cross tubes using the No.6 x ½" self tapping
screws at appropriate points (at least every 300mm) and fitting "P" clips (see photo 5) most of these holes are
pre-drilled. The rear "T" piece should be fitted to the top differential carrier plate and the brake line should
have at least a 360° loop in it between the last fixing point and the "T" piece so that any movement of the
differential does not result in a fatigue failure of the pipe (photo 3). Secure the "T" piece with a 1/4" x
1"UNF set screw (drill and tap first) and the line using the 3/16" "P" and clips No 6 x 1/2" self tapping
screws. Connect this brake line to the forward most connection on the master cylinder.
4.4.5 Rear brake link pipes
Fit the two links (R2) from the rear three way union into the hole opposite the bleed nipple on the brake
calipers making sure the handbrake linkage will not catch on the pipes, then fit the two caliper link pipes
(R3) from one side of the caliper to the other.
4.4.6 Front brake flexi hoses
Fit the front brake flexible hoses to the brackets on the chassis and on the upper section of the disc protector
of the front hubs with lock nuts and shake proof internal "star" washers (these should come with the hoses –
photo 4). Make sure the hoses are sitting naturally and are not twisted in any way.
4.4.7 Front brake lines
Fit the front four way union to the chassis in the thread hole provided in the chassis just ahead of the master
cylinder with the ¼"UNF x 1" set screw provided. Bend and fit the N/S front brake pipe (F1) to the from the
front of the four way union over the engine mount area then down under the front chassis member across to
the connection to the left hand front brake hose and fix to the front chassis member with P clips and No6 x
1/2" self tapping screws using the 3 holes drilled before fitting the steering rack (This pipe may have been
shaped for you by Suffolk Sportscars). Do the same with the shorter right hand brake pipe (F2) using the top
outlet in the four way union. Then connect the rear four way union outlet to the rear most connection on the
master cylinder (F3 this may require a banjo bolt)..
4.4.8 Brake lamp switch
The brake lamp switch fits in the final inward pointing position of the four way union. Screw the brake light
switch into the 4 way union using PTFE tape to seal if a tapered thread or a copper washer if a parallel thread
and tighten.
4.4.9 Front caliper link pipes
Last of the front brake pipes is the two caliper link pipes (f4) these link from the caliper to the flexi brake
hoses, once bent and fitted turn the steering to make sure they don't catch on the upper ball joint mounts or
bolts and adjust if necessary.
Note: Make sure that the male unions in the master cylinder, calipers and "T" pieces and the female unions
on the brake hoses are tight enough to make a seal but not over tightened. A torque wrench is not suited here
but a torque of about 15 ft-lb is appropriate.
4.4.10 Clutch master cylinder pipes
Drill a suitable hole through the lower edge of the clutch master cylinder bracket underneath the pushrod
going from left to right and secure the flexi hose like before on the brakes, connect the flexi hose to the
master cylinder with the final piece of pipe (R4). The connection to the clutch slave cylinder obviously
cannot be made until the engine and gearbox are installed. To prevent any ingress of dirt, seal the end of the
hose with masking tape.
4.4.11 Bleeding brakes
Fill the brake hydraulic reservoir with hydraulic fluid and bleed the system of air. This can be done with a
low pressure bleeding system like Gunsons easy bleed or with a helper pressing the pedal for you, if using
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