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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition)
edge.
Lift both panels to the upright position and check that the louvres on both panels align with each other, adjust
if needed and lower back down before checking the rear edge of both panels still cover the shut line.
Note: at this stage we will concentrate on the rear edge only, the front is over length and will be
dealt with next.
7.2.10 Securing top bonnet panel
When satisfied with the position of the top bonnet panels, make sure the bonnet panel is sitting against the
hinge before drilling through the bonnet using the holes in the hinge to guide you and secure with temporally
secure with some M3 nuts and bolts.
7.2.11 Marking the bonnet panels
Use two straps to gentle hold the bonnet in the closed position in alignment with the bonnet hooks, this will
ensure when the bonnet is held closed with the ripaults it will sit in the same place, (too much or too little
tension can change the position of the bonnet gaps).
The masking tape on the scuttle can now be used as a guide for marking the position for the first cut. Run a
second length of masking tape over the length already applied on the scuttle, this will overlap the bonnet by a
few millimeters.
Run a third length of masking tape on the bonnet panel 2mm away from the second length of masking tape,
the overlapping length can then be removed leaving you with a length on the bonnet running 2mm away
from the length underneath the panel, this is your guide for your first cut.
7.2.12 Cutting the top bonnet panels
Remove the hinge and panels and/or slide out the bonnet panel just enough to allow access to cut the bonnet
panel near to the guide line, this is best done with a sharp, quality pair of tin snips, reposition the panels
gently re strap them and check the alignment and gap size at the rear of the bonnet.
Note: Do not rush, the best gaps take time to perfect, its better to take off a small amount then check,
if you need to remove 1mm or less this is best done slowly with a file rather then tin snips.
The ideal size gap between the bonnet and the scuttle shut line is 3mm, this will avoid paint damage from
rubbing when driving your car, the edge of a one pound coin is a good way to help achieve this. Repeat the
above process until a satisfactory fit is achieved. Next move to the front end of the top bonnet panels, check
the radiator shell is sitting straight with the body, the above operation can now be repeated with the front
edge of the top bonnet panels. Once again do not rush, this takes time to make a good job. When happy
with the fit of the top bonnet panels, remove the temporally fixings and replace with 3mm pot rivets.
7.2.13 Fitting side hinges
With the centre hinge and top panels fitted on the car, fit the side hinge onto the left hand top panel, make
sure it is central between the bulkhead and the radiator shell. Mark this position and repeat for the right hand
top panel.
Remove the bonnet and drill the top bonnet panel through the predrilled holes in the hinge, these can then be
secured with the 3mm pot rivets as before.
7.2.14 Fitting bottom bonnet panels
The next operation will require an assistant to help you. Refit the top bonnet panels and hinges to the body
and slide the left bottom panel onto its hinge to its correct position leaving sufficient metal on both front and
rear edges for trimming also ensure that the holes for the ripaults catches line up with the hook positions in
the body. Mark this position and repeat with the other side before sliding out the bottom panels and
removing the bonnet from the car (taking the bottom panels off will make it easier to remove bonnet). Slide
the bottom panels back into the marked position leaving a 2mm gap between the top and bottom panels when
the bonnet is in the closed position (a 2mm thick washer adjacent to the hinge fixing hole is a good way to
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Rev 10 November 2013
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