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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition)
7.2.4
Preparing outer hinges
Now prepare the two outer hinges. Cut these to a length of 44". For these hinges the length of the ¼" brass
rod must be the same as the stainless steel part. Drill 6 holes to accept 3mm rivets, 3 in each U section,
2 pairs 15 mm from each end and one pair in the centre. These holes must also be deburred as above.
Suffolk Sportscars usually does this for you.
7.2.5
Positioning top hinge
To find the centre of the bulkhead, locate a length of flexible wire or string and use the following method.
Starting at the point where the body lip for the bonnet meets the running board, run the wire up the lip to the
mould join with is near the centre, mark the body and wire here with a pen, now repeat this on the other side
and mark the body again. Repeat this operation to check positions.
Now there should be two marks on the lip, measure and mark the centre between these two marks on the lip,
this will be the centre of the lip.
7.2.6
Radiator hoop and long stays
Next fit the radiator hoop with the smaller tabs pointing rearward and finger tighten the 5/16 x ¾ unf bolts.
Next install the long radiator hoop stays and adjust these to give a dimension of 45 ½" between the rear edge
of the radiator hoop and the scuttle face where the tie bar passes through it. The radiator hoop bolts and stays
can now be fully tightened. Now check the centre of the radiator hoop is central to the body, if not lean on
the hoop to make it so.
Then run a piece of string from the centre of the hoop to the mark previously made on the body/bonnet lip
and check all looks straight, adjust if necessary. When happy with alignment drill a 6mm hole for the rear
bonnet fitting so that the rear of the bonnet fitting sits just in front of the lip which accepts the bonnet panels.
7.2.7
Radiator shell
Attach the radiator shell lower mounting "Z" brackets (It helps to slot the 6mm bolt holes in these brackets to
allow for adjustment) to the radiator hoop which is ready drilled with two 6mm holes with the M6 bolts &
nuts. Fix the top of the shell in position using the front central hinge fixing using 2BA x 1/2" countersunk
screws. It helps to first slot the two top holes in the shell also for fine adjustment. Attach the other end of the
Z brackets to the shell with M4 x 10mm countersunk screws and nuts. Adjust the shell so that the top rear
edge of the shell is at 90 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the car in plan view. With the shell in the correct
position, tighten the top and bottom fixings.
7.2.8
Top hinge and bonnet webbing
If your radiator has been supplied chromed ensure that it is protected by masking tape before proceeding.
Install the top hinge and adjust the long stays if necessary so that there are no gaps between the hinge and the
front and rear hinge mounts (approx length 49 ¼ ").
Fit the bonnet webbing to the scuttle and radiator shell using double-sided tape (Temporary) before body
painted and radiator shell chromed or impact glue after body painted and shell chromed.
7.2.9
Fitting Bonnet panels
If your radiator shell has been supplied chromed it may be safer to remove the hinge before sliding the
bonnet panels into the hinge. The bonnet panels may be a tight fit in the hinge and may not slide easily, if
this is the case do not be tempted to tap the panels with a mallet as this will cause damage to the soft
aluminium panels.
If the panel does not slide easily when tapped by hand then WD40 or similar may help this operation.
Note: If using lubricant of some form be sure to inform the body shop so they can wash out any
residues that may cause paint problems.
Next apply 1" wide masking tape following the line of the bonnet lip on the scuttle and radiator shell, this
will help guide you when marking the panels before cutting. Now if removed refit the hinge and top bonnet
panels back on the body, slide the panels back until the rear edge just covers the shut line all along the rear
Page 38
Rev 10 November 2013
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