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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition)
achieve this) now drill a 3mm hole through the panel in the predrilled hinge hole. Temporally attach the
bottom panels with M3 nuts and bolts.
Fit the four ripaults on the bottom panels using M4 screws and nuts and refit bonnet to the car.
Adjust the height of the bonnet hooks so that the catches fit and apply even tension to the bonnet panels.
7.2.15 Bottom bonnet beaded edge
The lower edge of the bottom panels have a rolled beaded edge, this will need removing where the beading
overlaps radiator shell and cutting at an angle at the rear edge to able the bonnet to sit closer to the bulkhead.
Mark the area to be cut before removing the bottom panels and trimming with a cutting disc in an angle
grinder. Make sure you clean these up with a file so you don't have any sharp edges.
Note: Take care doing this so that the panel in the surrounding area is not damaged.
7.2.16 Cutting bottom panels
Now you can repeat the cutting operation with the bottom panels in the same way as you did for the top
panels, starting with the rear edge then the front. Each time making sure the bonnet is held down square with
the ripaults. When a satisfactory fit and gaps have been achieved remove the complete bonnet before laying
it down and removing the three brass hinge pins that hold the bonnet together, this will leave you with four
panels that are easier to handle.
7.2.17 Riveting the bonnet panels
To finish the bonnet panels these must now have the proper rivets fitting, drill out the pot rivets or remove
M3 bolts one at a time and replace with the sixteen alloy rivets supplied for a permanent fixture. Finally,
carefully peen over the bonnet 'U' section at the end of each bonnet that is not covered by the hinge, this will
help the bonnet sit flatter to the body/radiator shell, see figure 5.
The help of second person is needed to hold the panels whilst riveting and peening to ensure the panels are
laying flat on a smooth steel surface to save damage to the panels.
7.2.18 Fitting bonnet studs
The bonnet studs are fitted so when the bonnet is opened the louvres don't touch on each other and damage
the paint they sit on the studs instead, these holes will need drilling in your bonnet. You will need to drill
two holes in each of the top bonnet sections, the holes should all be 65 mm from the centre line of the bonnet
with the front ones 95 mm from the front edge of the bonnet and the rears 190 mm from the rear edge of the
bonnet. De-burr the holes and test fit the chrome plated studs.
7.3 Painting
7.3.1
Body preparation and painting
If the builder is not satisfied with the door shut lines at this point, one option is to take the car in its present
state before removing the body, to the body shop where finishing and painting is to take place, and
ask them to adjust the shut lines. This can be done by gently removing material from the doors and in some
cases building up with resin and refinishing. If this is to be done it is important that all body to chassis
fixings remain tight as per the finished car.
Now remove all the fittings from the body and remove the body from the chassis for finishing and painting.
To help ensure that the radiator hoop and shell fit back in exactly the same position following dismantling
for painting, it is important that the settings of the radiator hoop to scuttle long stays are fixed. To do this
mark the position of the M10 nuts ahead of the scuttle hoop on the threaded part of the stays, an easy way of
doing this is with a piece of masking tape wrapped around the thread.
The following additional points are intended as a guide:
Label all nuts, bolts, fixings, spacers, shim packs etc. so it is clear where they belong.
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After removing the bonnet, dismantle into the 4 separate panels by gently tapping out and
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Page 40
Rev 10 November 2013
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