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bimota DB7 Workshop Manual

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Rev. 1.10
11-2009

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Summary of Contents for bimota DB7

  • Page 1 Rev. 1.10 11-2009...
  • Page 3 BIMOTA DB7 WORKSHOP MANUAL 2008, Bimota Spa. All rights reserved. The reproduction, in whole or part, of the topics covered in this publication, is forbidden: all rights are reserved to Bimota to which will require (written) authorization specifying the reasons. Bimota...

  • Page 4: Manual Purpose - Warnings

    MANUAL PURPOSE – WARNINGS This manual has been written by Bimota SpA primarily intended for use by dealers Bimota and their skilled mechanics. Describes the service procedures for maintenance, repair and replacement of original parts of the motorcycle in question. The technicians, that this manual is intended to, must have the adequate experience and competence: some information has been deliberately omitted, because they have to be part of the indi- spensable basics that a technician must have.

  • Page 5: Use Of The Manual

    USE OF THE MANUAL This manual is an easy guide for technicians. All the procedures indicated in the manual are illustrated in a detailed way and regards the operations of disassembly, assembly, inspection and repair. The manual is divided in chapters. The name and the relative number, placed in a frame on the right upper corner of each page, indicating the current chapter.

  • Page 6: Table Of Contents

    ENGINE Summary MANUAL PURPOSE – WARNINGS SIMBOLS USE OF THE MANUAL 11.1 - REMOVAL – REFITTING OF THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY SEz11-4 Removal of the engine ......................Sez11-5 Refitting engine ........................Sez11-5 11.2 - LUBRIcATION SYSTEM: OIL PUMP SEz11-6 Removal of the oil pump ......................Sez11-7 Disassembly of the oil pump ....................Sez11-8...
  • Page 7 ENGINE Checking the camshafts and supports ..................Sez11-62 Refitting the camshafts ......................Sez11-64 Oil seals ...........................Sez11-67 Rocker cover ...........................Sez11-68 Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union ..............Sez11-71 11.10 - cYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES: VALVES - ROcKER ARMS SEz11-72 Removal of the cylinder heads ....................Sez11-73 Removal of the valves ......................Sez11-74...
  • Page 8 ENGINE 11.17 - FLYWHEEL-ALTERNATOR SEz11-144 Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover ..............Sez11-145 Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover ................Sez11-147 Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly ................Sez11-149 Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly .................Sez11-150 Disassembly of the flywheel/alternator ..................Sez11-151 Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly ..............Sez11-152 11.18 - cRANKcASE ASSEMBLY: ExTERNAL cOMPONENTS SEz11-157...

  • Page 9: Removal - Refitting Of The Engine Assembly Sez11-4

    ENGINE 11.1 - REMOVAL – REFITTING OF THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY 1) Engine spindle 2) Nut M12x1,25 3) Spacer Sez11-4...

  • Page 10: Removal Of The Engine

    ENGINE Removal of the engine In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle. Most of these removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual. This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts listed belowe: - Tail, Fuel tank, side fairing, front fairing - Throttle control, airbox, throttle body, exhaust system - Foot lever gearshift assembly, rear brake pump, Clutch piston assembly, engine driving pinion...

  • Page 11: Lubrication System: Oil Pump Sez11-6

    ENGINE 11.2 - LUBRIcATION SYSTEM: OIL PUMP 1) Complete oil pump assembly 2) O-ring 3) Circlip 4) O-ring 5) Pump body 6) Circlip 7) Reducer bush 8) Spring washer 9) Bolt 10) Bolt 11) Spring washer 12) Pump drive gear 13) Key 14) By-pass plug 15) Locating dowel...

  • Page 12: Removal Of The Oil Pump

    ENGINE Removal of the oil pump Drain the oil from the lubrication system Remove the engine from the frame Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover Undo and remove the bolts (9) and (10) securing the pump assembly. Remove the oil pump assembly (1) and extract O-rings (2) and (4) from the crankcase half together with two centring bushes (15).

  • Page 13: Disassembly Of The Oil Pump

    ENGINE Disassembly of the oil pump Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (12). Warning Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material. Remove the plug (14) and extract the spring (16) and by-pass valve (17). Check the condition of the above components.

  • Page 14: Reassembly Of The Oil Pump

    ENGINE Reassembly of the oil pump Check that the circlip (3) and Woodruff key (13) are both present on the pump. Fit the pump drive gear (12) on to the oil pump and secure it by installing the circlip (6) in its groove. Install in the pump the by-pass valve (17) and the spring (16);...

  • Page 15: Refitting The Oil Pump

    ENGINE Refitting the oil pump Position the locating dowels (15) and the O-rings (2) and (4) in correspondence with the crankcase lubrication oilways. Position the oil pump on the crankcase and tighten the bolts (9) and (10) to the specified torque. Check the gear backlash with the driving pinion by fixing dial gauge part no.
  • Page 16 ENGINE Refit the right-hand crankcase cover Refit the engine to the frame Fill the lubrication system with oil Sez11-11...

  • Page 17: Lubrication System: Oil Cooler Sez11-12

    ENGINE 11.3 - LUBRIcATION SYSTEM: OIL cOOLER 1) Bolt M6x25 TCEI CZ 2) Gasket 6x18x1.6 3) Rubber mounting 4) Aluminium gasket sp.2 5) Nipple 6) Gasket 7) Oil hose 8) Support 9) Nut M6 10) Spacer 11) Oil cooler 12) Bolt M6X12 TE 13) Gasket 14) Oil hose Sez11-12...

  • Page 18: Removal Of The Lubrication System

    ENGINE Removal of the lubrication system Remove the side fairings Drain the oil from the lubrication system Undo the nuts (A) on the feed and return hoses (7) - (14) and the nipples (5) and disconnect them from the engine. Unscrew the nipples (5) on the crankcase and recover the gaskets.

  • Page 19: Oil Cooler Inspection

    ENGINE Unscrew and remove the bolt (14) - (5) securing the oil cooler to the support (8). The support (8) can now be removed by unscrewing the bolts (12). Unscrew the feed and return hoses (7) - (14) from the oil cooler (1). Oil cooler inspection Make a visual inspection of the oil cooler.

  • Page 20: Cooling System: Water Tank Sez11-15

    ENGINE 11.4 - cOOLING SYSTEM: WATER TANK 1) Water tank 13) Thermostat 2) Tank cap 14) Hose guide clamp 3) ECU mounting plate 15) Clamp 4) Screw M5x10 TBEI 16) Water temperature sensor 5) Water return hose 17) Screwed bush 6) Water delivery hose 18) Clamp 7) H.

  • Page 21: Removal Of The Water Tank

    ENGINE Removal of the water tank Drain the cooling system. Remove the air filter box. Loosen the clamp (11) and slip the hose (10) off from the water cooler cap. Unscrew the three screws (25) then remove the expansion tank (1) together with the plate (3) and the hoses (10).

  • Page 22: Water Cooling: Water Cooler

    ENGINE 11.5 - WATER cOOLING: WATER cOOLER 1) Water tank 13) Thermostat 2) Tank cap 14) Hose guide clamp 3) ECU mounting plate 15) Clamp 4) Screw M5x10 TBEI 16) Water temperature sensor 5) Water return hose 17) Screwed bush 6) Water delivery hose 18) Clamp 7) H.

  • Page 23: Disassembly Water Cooler

    ENGINE Disassembly water cooler Drain the cooling system Remove the side fairings Remove the battery support Loosen the clamps le fascette (9) on the coolant hoses (6) e (5) then slip them off from the water cooler manifolds. Loosen the clamp (11) which joins the water tank to the water cooler then slip off the hose (10). Unscrew the bolt (25) which fastens the water cooler on the left side of the frame.

  • Page 24: Water Cooler Inspection

    ENGINE Disconnect the connectors (26) of the main wiring from both the cooling fans. Uncrew the screw (25) on the right side of the frame then take off the water cooler. Water cooler inspection Visually inspect the radiator. If it shows signs of damage or leaks, the water cooler must be renewed. Check also that the air flow through the radiator core is not obstructed by leaves, insects, mud etc.

  • Page 25: Renewal Of The Cooling Fan

    ENGINE Renewal of the cooling fan Unscrew the three fan retaining bolts (1) the remove the fan (2) from the water cooler. Repeat the above operation for the other cooling fan. When refitting the fan, tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque. Sez11-20...

  • Page 26: Removal Of The Cooling System Hoses And Unions

    ENGINE Removal of the cooling system hoses and unions 5) Water return hose 6) Water delivery hose 7) H. cylinder hose 8) V. cylinder hose 9) Clamp 13) Thermostat 15) Clamp 16) Water temperature sensor 17) Screwed bush 18) Clamp 19) Sensor 20) O-Ring 21) Water outlet union (horizontal)
  • Page 27 ENGINE Drain the cooling system Remove the side fairings Remove the battery box Loosen the fixing clamps (9). Slip off the two ends of the water return hose (5) from the water cooler and from the water pump manifold. Loosen the clamps (9) then slip off the water delivery hose (6). Sez11-22...
  • Page 28 ENGINE Loosen the clamps (9) and the clamp (15), disconnect the wiring connector (4) of the temperature sensor from the electric wiring then remove the vertical cylinder hose (8) . Loosen the clamps (9) to disassemble the thermostat (13) - H. cylinder hose (7) assembly from the union (21). Sez11-23...
  • Page 29 ENGINE Loosen the clamps (9) and remove the hoses (24) e (25). Unscrew the bolts (23) then remove the union (22). Recover the O-ring (20) located between the union and the vertical cylinder head. Disconnect the wiring connector (A) of the temperature sensor (19) mounted on the union (21) on the horizontal cylinder head from the main electric wiring.

  • Page 30: Cooling System: Water Pump Sez11-25

    ENGINE 11.6 - cOOLING SYSTEM: WATER PUMP 1) Bolt 2) Washer 3) Circlip 4) Washer 5) Outer bearing 6) Inner bearing 7) Spacer 8) Seal seat 9) Mechanical seal 10) Water pump impeller 11) Locating dowel 12) Water pump cover assembly 13) Bolt 14) Plug 15) Seal...

  • Page 31: Removal Of The Water Pump

    ENGINE Removal of the water pump Remove the side fairings Drain the cooling system Remove the cooling circuit hoses from the water pump cover Remove the left-hand side crankcase cover Undo and remove the five screws (13) securing the water pump cover (12) to the left-hand side crankcase cover (16).
  • Page 32 ENGINE Recover the ceramic washer (A) and seal ring (B) located on the inner side. Undo and remove the bolts (1) with washer (2). Sez11-27...
  • Page 33 ENGINE Working from the rotor side use a suitable drift to press on the inner race of end bearing (5) until it can be extracted from the cover. Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (6). Working from the inside of the cover, remove the seat (8) of the mechanical seal (9). Remove the inner spacer (7).

  • Page 34: Refitting The Water Pump

    ENGINE Refitting the water pump Clean the seat in the cover, any parts you intend to reuse, and the rotor shaft. Lubricate with engine oil and refit as follows. Using drift part no. 88713.0869 fit the new seal (9) on the impeller shaft. Working from the inside of the cover, fit the inner spacer (7) with its square edge (A) facing outwards.
  • Page 35 ENGINE Fit the two bolts (1) with washers (2) and tighten them to the specified torque. Now turn over the cover and fit the locating ring (8) using drift part no. 88713.0870. Position the ring as shown in figure and push it until it seats against the spacer (7). Sez11-30...
  • Page 36 ENGINE Fit the seal ring (B) and the ceramic washer (A). Insert the impeller shaft (10) with the mechanical seal (9). Turn the cover over. Sez11-31...
  • Page 37 ENGINE Insert rotor shaft (10) with seal and turn over the cover again. Fit spacer (4), positioned as shown in the cross-sectional view, and lock the assembly in place with circlip (3). Rotate the impeller (5) and make sure it turns smoothly without sticking. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly on the pump cover and on the left-hand side crankcase cover.
  • Page 38 ENGINE Apply a bead of liquid gasket to the water pump cover (12) as shown in the figure. Fit the locating dowels (11) and position the pump cover (12) on the left-hand side crankcase cover. Fit the screws (13) in their threads. Tighten the screws (13) to the specified torque.

  • Page 39: Cylinder Head Assemblies: Checks And Adjustments Sez11-34

    ENGINE 11.7 - cYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES: cHEcKS AND ADjUSTMENTS 1) Closing shim 2) Intake side camshaft 3) Opening shim 4) Exhaust side camshaft 5) Valve Sez11-34...

  • Page 40: Checking And Adjusting The Valve Clearances

    ENGINE checking and adjusting the valve clearances Remove the side fairings Remove the radiator Remove the airbox Remove the timing belts Remove the rocker cover Notes For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. checking the opening clearance Move the piston of the cylinder being checked to TDC of the power stroke: in this condition all the valves are closed and the camshafts are in their rest position and thus free to rotate.

  • Page 41: Checking The Closing Clearance

    ENGINE checking the closing clearance Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the closing rocker arm shoe (C) and the upper edge of the camshaft cam (D), taking care not to compress the rocker arm return spring. The clearance must be within the specified limits “Timing system/valves”. If it is not, remove the closing shim, as described in the paragraph “Removal of the valves”, and replace it with a shim of suitable height to obtain the specified clearance.

  • Page 42: Checking Valve Lift

    ENGINE checking valve lift Put the engine in the condition described in “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances” above. Install the dial gauge stand (E) 88765.1518 on the intake side camshaft bearing studs, and secure it with the knobs (F). Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
  • Page 43 ENGINE Refit following the procedure indicated in the previous paragraph “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances”. Refit the components removed. Refit the timing belts Refit the rocker cover Refit the airbox Refit the radiator Refit the side fairings Sez11-38...

  • Page 44: Checking The Engine Timing

    ENGINE checking the engine timing Remove the side fairings Remove the radiator Remove the airbox Remove the timing belts Remove the rocker cover Remove the water pump cover Put the engine the condition described previously for the operation “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances”.
  • Page 45 ENGINE Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim. Check that, in this condition, the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge. In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by the reading on gauge (G), set the gauges (H) to zero.
  • Page 46 ENGINE Remove all tools installed for the timing check and tension the belts to their prescribed operating tension, as described in “Measuring timing belt tension”. If the values obtained are outside the specified ranges, loosen the timing pulley screws (H) and correct the value by turning the camshaft nut with the wrench supplied with service tool no.

  • Page 47: Cylinder Head Assemblies: Timing Sez11-42

    ENGINE 11.8 - cYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES: TIMING 1) Vertical cylinder timing belt cover 13) Idler pulley assembly 2) Air filter 14) Timing belt 3) Horizontal cylinder timing belt cover 15) Nut 4) Bolt 16) Key 5) Filter cover 17) Spacer 6) Bolt 18) Camshaft pulley 7) Washer...

  • Page 48: Removal Of The Timing Belt Covers

    ENGINE Removal of the timing belt covers Remove the side fairings Disconnect the electrical system components on right-hand side of the engine Notes Remove also any parts which may impede the procedure in any way. Undo the bolts (4) securing the timing belt cover (1) and remove it from the vertical cylinder assembly. Undo the bolts (4) securing the timing belt cover (3) and remove it from the horizontal cylinder unit.

  • Page 49: Removal Of The Tensioner Pulley / Timing Belt

    ENGINE Removal of the tensioner pulley / timing belt Loosen the nut (8) and remove the tensioner pulley (9) from its mounting stud (12) on the cylinder head. Remove the timing belt (14) from the horizontal cylinder assembly. Important If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the cylinder they belong to.

  • Page 50: Removal Of The Camshaft Pulleys/Idler Pulley

    ENGINE Removal of the camshaft pulleys/idler pulley Insert tool part no. 88713.1806 on the pulleys to stop them rotating and use the bush supplied with it to slacken off nuts (21) securing the pulleys. Important On reassembly, always use new nuts. Remove the nuts (21) and the pulleys (11) from the camshafts.

  • Page 51: Removal Of The Tensioner And Idler Pulley Mounting Studs

    ENGINE Removal of the tensioner and idler pulley mounting studs Using service tool no. 88713.1821, remove the tensioner pulley mounting studs (12) from the cylinder heads. Disassembly of the camshaft pulleys Undo and remove the bolts (22). Slide off the washer (23). Withdraw the camshaft pulley (11) from the spacer flange (24).

  • Page 52: Removal Of The Timing Belt Driveshaft Pulleys

    ENGINE Removal of the timing belt driveshaft pulleys Use the service tool no. 88713.1805 to hold the driving pulley against rotation. Important If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, hold the driveshaft pulleys against rotation by using service tool no 88713.2011 mounted on the alternator cover.
  • Page 53 ENGINE Remove the inner spacer (17) and second Woodruff key (16) on the timing belt driveshaft. It is now possible to remove the circlip (10) on the driveshaft. Sez11-48...

  • Page 54: Refitting The Timing Belt Driveshaft Rollers

    ENGINE Refitting the timing belt driveshaft rollers To fit the circlip (10) to the driveshaft, use the protective cap 88713.2834. Install the inner spacer (17) on the driveshaft, taking care to align the notch in the spacer with the slot for the Woodruff key.
  • Page 55 ENGINE Locate the inner pulley (18). Refit the second Woodruff key (16) and the washer (19). Locate the outer pulley (18) and the spacer (20). Apply the recommended grease to the threads on the end of the driveshaft. Fit the nut (15). Sez11-50...

  • Page 56: Refitting The Idler And Tensioner Pulley Mounting Studs

    ENGINE Important To prevent the nuts working loose and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking nuts on all timing belt pulleys on reassembly. Lock rotation of the pulleys with service tool no. 88713.1805 and, using the insert supplied with the wrench in conjunction with a torque wrench, tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque.

  • Page 57: Reassembly Of The Timing Pulleys

    ENGINE Reassembly of the timing pulleys Fit the pulley (11) on the hub (24), aligning the timing mark (D) on the pulley with the timing mark on the (E) on the hub. Fit the washer (23) up against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (F) with the timing marks on the pulley and the hub.

  • Page 58: Rimontaggio Puleggie Testa / Tenditori Fissi

    ENGINE Rimontaggio puleggie testa / tenditori fissi Check that the keyway on the end of the camshaft is in good condition and without burrs. Fit a Woodruff key (B) in the keyway of each camshaft. Fit the pulley (11) on the camshaft, inserting the Woodruff key in the in the slot (C) in the pulley. Apply the recommended grease to the threads on the end of the camshaft.
  • Page 59 ENGINE Fit the service tool 88713.1806 on to the pulleys to prevent rotation. Apply the recommended grease to the mating face of the nut (21). Fit the nut (21). Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft. Important Always fit new nuts on reassembly. Using the bush supplied with service tool 88713.1806 and a torque wrench, tighten the nuts (21) to their specified torque.

  • Page 60: Refitting The Timing Belts

    ENGINE Unscrew the bolts (22) securing the pulleys, turning them anti-clockwise through 90° ± 5°. Check that the pulleys have no endfloat and can rotate freely at all points along the full length of the slots. Refitting the timing belts Turn the pulleys on the timing belt driveshaft until the timing mark on the outer roller is aligned with the mark on the right-hand crankcase cover.

  • Page 61: Sez11

    ENGINE Fit the service tool no. 88765.1524 to prevent rotation of the camshafts: one for the vertical cylinder head and one for the horizontal cylinder head. Fix the tools to the rocker cover with the pin (C). Important To ensure correct timing, the bolts (22) securing the pulleys to the hubs must be loose and positioned in the centres of their slots.

  • Page 62: Sez11

    ENGINE Check the timing belt tension and adjust if necessary as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt tension” Warning Check the tension on the belt sections (D) and (E) shown in the figure. Once the belts are correctly tensioned, ensure that the nuts (8) securing the tensioner pulley (9) and the bolts (22) are tightened to the specified torque.

  • Page 63: Refitting The Timing Covers

    ENGINE Refitting the timing covers Locate the horizontal cylinder timing cover (3) and secure it in place with bolts (4). Do the same with the vertical cylinder outer cover (1). Tighten the bolts (4) progressively in a crosswise pattern to the specified torque. Notes If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously removed parts.

  • Page 64: Cylinder Head Assemblies: Camshafts Sez11-59

    ENGINE 11.9 - cYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES: cAMSHAFTS 1) Cylinder head 15) Horizontal cylinder intake camshaft 2) Stud bolt 16) Plug 3) Special screw 17) Oil seal 4) Seal 18) Vertical cylinder exhaust camshaft 5) Horizontal cylinder head rocker cover 19) Key 6) Vertical cylinder head rocker cover 20) Vertical cylinder intake camshaft 7) Special screw...

  • Page 65: Removal Of The Camshafts

    ENGINE Removal of the camshafts Remove the coils Remove the engine from the frame Remove the timing belt covers, the timing belts and timing belt pulleys Remove the oil pump from the engine Unscrew and remove the bolts (7) from the rocker covers. Remove the rocker cover (6).
  • Page 66 ENGINE Unscrew the bolts (3) securing the camshaft supports. Withdraw the camshaft supports (22) and (23) straight out from the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the machined faces and locating dowels (11). Remove the exhaust camshaft (14) and the intake camshaft (15), and slide off the seal rings (17) on their ends. Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head..

  • Page 67: Checking The Camshafts And Supports

    ENGINE If necessary, unscrew the stud bolts (2) from the cylinder heads. checking the camshafts and supports Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving. Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power. Place the camshaft between two centres and check the runout using two dial gauges.
  • Page 68 ENGINE Sez11-63...

  • Page 69: Refitting The Camshafts

    ENGINE Refitting the camshafts If the stud bolts (2) were removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the short end of the stud bolts (2), i.e. the end that is to be screwed into the cylinder head. Tighten the lock nuts (2) to the prescribed torque Check that the camshafts (marked “VA”...
  • Page 70 ENGINE Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the support (22) shown in red in the photo. Clean off any excess sealant. Notes Only apply sealant to the timing side support (22): do not apply to support (23). Install the camshafts (14) and (15) in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly.
  • Page 71 ENGINE Fit the supports (22) and (23) so they are perfectly seated on the cylinder head, checking that the number stamped in zone (B) of the cylinder head is the same as the number stamped in zone (C) of the support. Important The support (22) must be installed on the timing side.

  • Page 72: Oil Seals

    ENGINE Notes The bolt (3) in position 1 must always be installed on the intake and timing side. Important Check the valve lift Oil seals Lubricate the oil seals (17) with denatured alcohol. Fit the installation tool supplied with service tool 88713.2861 on the camshaft and install the oil seal on the cylinder head with the spring side.

  • Page 73: Rocker Cover

    ENGINE When correctly installed, the oil seal should be flush with the bevel of the cylinder head bore. Rocker cover Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the rocker cover shown in red in the photo. Sez11-68...
  • Page 74 ENGINE Fit the gaskets (4) and (9) on the rocker cover, as shown in the figure. Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the cylinder head shown in red in the photo. Rocker cover identification: The vertical head rocker cover (6) has a nib (A) on the left-hand side (exhaust side), whereas rocker cover (5) has a nib (B) on the right-hand side (exhaust side).
  • Page 75 ENGINE Locate the cover (6) on the cylinder head, aligning the four fixing holes. Install the four washers (8) in the cover fixing holes, with the rubber sides facing the cover. Insert the bolts (7). Tighten screws (7) to the specified torque Remove excess sealant from the area of application.

  • Page 76: Removal Of The Intake Manifold And Coolant Union

    ENGINE Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union Remove the manifolds (25) by undoing the bolts (21). Notes When the lower two bolts (21) of the vertical cylinder head manifold are unscrewed, the expansion tank support will come free. Loosen the clamp (A) and remove the hose (B).

  • Page 77: Cylinder Head Assemblies: Valves - Rocker Arms Sez11-72

    ENGINE 11.10 - cYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES: VALVES - ROcKER ARMS 1) Closing rocker arm shaft 12) Plug 2) Opening rocker arm shaft 13) Intake valve seat 3) Opening rocker arm 14) Intake valve 4) Closing rocker arm (left) 15) Aluminium gasket 5) Valve opening shim 16) Closing rocker arm (right) 6) Half rings...

  • Page 78: Removal Of The Cylinder Heads

    ENGINE Removal of the cylinder heads Remove the engine from the frame Remove the coolant hoses Remove the timing belt covers and the timing belts Remove the oil pump Using the service tool 88713.2676, unscrew the nuts (21) on the cylinder head studs. Remove the cylinder head nuts (21) and special washers (22).

  • Page 79: Removal Of The Valves

    ENGINE Removal of the valves Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine Remove the timing belt pulleys Remove the camshafts Raise the rocker arm (3) and remove the opening shim (5) from the valves with a pair of pliers. Push down the closing rocker arms (16) and (4) and the closing shim (7).

  • Page 80: Removing The Valve Rocker Arms

    ENGINE Removing the valve rocker arms With the cylinder head in the condition described in the previous paragraph, remove the rocker arms. Unscrew the eight plugs (12) and recover the seals (15). Using an M5 bolt, withdraw the shafts (2) of the opening rocker arms (3) on the exhaust and intake sides. Remove the opening rocker arms (3).
  • Page 81 ENGINE Using accessory (C) of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit 88713.2069 installed between the spring and the inner wall of the cylinder head, move the straight end of the rocker arm return spring (19) and (18) and insert it in the drilled shaft.
  • Page 82 ENGINE Remove the closing rocker arms (4) and (16), the springs (18) and (19) with the spacers (17). Sez11-77...
  • Page 83 ENGINE Remove the seal rings (8) from the ends of the valve guides. Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head. Sez11-78...

  • Page 84: Overhaul Of Cylinder Head Components

    ENGINE Overhaul of cylinder head components cylinder heads Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts. Remove any scale from the coolant ducts. Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, ridges or other damage. Check that the cylinder barrel mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale.

  • Page 85: Valve Seat

    ENGINE Valve seat Visually inspect the valve seats: for cracking or pitting. Minor damage can be repaired by grinding with special 45° and 60° single-blade grinders. Grind the valves and check the seal. If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and 0.06 mm oversized outside diameters.
  • Page 86 ENGINE Proceed as follows: Remove the worn seats, grinding carefully to avoid any damage to cylinder head bores. Check the diameter of head bores and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of 0.04 to 0.10 mm. Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150°...

  • Page 87: Valve Guides

    ENGINE Valve guides Check the inner surface of the valve guides for cracking or distortion. Thoroughly check the dimensions of the inner surface of the valve guide. Measure the inside diameter with a bore diameter gauge. Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide. Sez11-82...
  • Page 88 ENGINE The assembly clearance must be: highest measured value – lowest measured value = 0.03 to 0.045 mm. The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.08 mm. Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the clearance to the valve stem is outside the tolerance range.

  • Page 89: Checking The Valve

    ENGINE checking the valve Check that the stem and the surface that contacts the valve seat are in good condition. There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear. Warning The valves cannot be ground. Perform the following checks. Measure the diameter of the valve stem (B) at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.
  • Page 90 ENGINE Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a “V” block and measure deformation with a dial gauge. Service limit: 0.053 mm. Check that valve head band (at 45° to valve head top face) is concentric to the valve stem as follows: place valve on a V block, set a dial gauge at right angles to head and rotate valve.

  • Page 91: Checking The Valve Seal

    ENGINE checking the valve seal After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between the valve face and the seat: if the seat contact area (S) on the valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing. checking the rocker arms Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.

  • Page 92: Opening And Closing Shims - Springs

    ENGINE Opening and closing shims - Springs Check the condition of the contact surfaces of the valve opening and closing shims: there must be no signs of wear. Check the condition of the closing rocker arm return springs: Check for cracking, distortion, or loss of elasticity. Reassembly of the cylinder head Notes The cylinder heads are identical.

  • Page 93: Valve Guide Seals

    ENGINE All the photos in this chapter refer to a vertical cylinder head. Valve guide seals Position the cylinder head on the service stand 88713.2103. Use alcohol to lubricate the valve guide seals (8) and insert them from the spring side onto tool 88713.2442. Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a mallet to tap the seals (8) home into the valve guides.
  • Page 94 ENGINE Locate the spacer (17) on the shaft. Locate the spring (18) on the spacer (17). Locate the closing rocker arm (16) and drive the shaft home. Sez11-89...
  • Page 95 ENGINE Proceed in a similar manner to install the closing rocker arm (4) with the spring (19) from the exhaust side. Load the springs (18) and (19) on the closing rocker arms (16) and (4) respectively using service tool no 88713.2069.

  • Page 96: Refitting The Valves, Closing Shims And Half Rings

    ENGINE Proceed to install the closing rocker arms (4) and (16), the relative springs and shafts on the intake side (C) in the same manner as described for the exhaust side (D). Notes Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side. Warning Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly.
  • Page 97 ENGINE Insert the new half rings (6) and release the rocker arm to ensure that they seat inside the shim (7). To ensure the half-rings are seated in the shim, tap the end of the rocker arm (16) with a rubber mallet. Sez11-92...

  • Page 98: Refitting The Opening Shims And Opening Rocker Arms

    ENGINE Repeat the procedure with the opposite valve and check that the top of the valve stem is aligned with the surface of the shim (7); if it is not, repeat the half-ring installation procedure. Install the closing shims on the intake valves (14) using the method described above for the exhaust valves. Refit the camshafts to check the valve closing clearances.
  • Page 99 ENGINE Install the four rocker arms (3) in the manner described above. Raise the opening rocker arm (3) and install the opening shim (5) so it seats against the valve stem. Release the rocker arm so that it rests against the shim. Ensure the shim is correctly seated by lightly tapping the rocker arm shoe (A) with plastic mallet.
  • Page 100 ENGINE Apply the recommended threadlocker to the plugs (12). Fit the eight plugs (12) with their seals (15): position the seals so that the square edges face the cylinder head. Tighten the plugs to the specified torque. Refit the camshaft supports Refit the timing belt pulleys Refit the rocker covers Refit the cylinder head assembly...

  • Page 101: Fitting The Cylinder Head Assemblies

    ENGINE Fitting the cylinder head assemblies Before fitting the head, check that gasket is installed on the mating surface between head and cylinder Notes When fitting the gasket, side (E) with the stamped code must be in contact with the cylinder head. Lower the cylinder head carefully over the studs.
  • Page 102 ENGINE Tighten the nuts (21) on the studs in the sequence 1-3-2-4 using service tool 88713.2676 in conjunction with a torque wrench. Pre-tighten and tighten the cylinder head nuts (21) to the specified torque. Refit the coolant hoses Refit the oil pump Refit the timing belts and covers Refit the engine to the frame Sez11-97...

  • Page 103: Cylinder / Piston Assemblies Sez11-98

    ENGINE 11.11 - cYLINDER / PISTON ASSEMBLIES 1) Piston 2) Gudgeon pin circlip 3) Gudgeon pin 4) Set of piston rings 5) Cylinder-crankcase gasket 6) Water pump outlet union 7) Hose clip 8) Horizontal cylinder coolant inlet hose 9) Vertical cylinder coolant inlet hose 10) Cylinder barrel 11) Cylinder head gasket 12) Bush...

  • Page 104: Removal Of The Cylinder/Piston Assembly

    ENGINE Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly Loosen the clamps (7) and remove the hoses (8) and (9) from the cylinder barrels (10) and from the left-hand crankcase cover. Unscrew the unions (6). Sez11-99...
  • Page 105 ENGINE Notes The following procedure is described with the engine removed from the frame and the cylinder head removed from the engine. Remove the cylinder head gasket (11) from the cylinder barrel. Remove the locating dowels (12). Use service tool no. 88765.1523 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder to TDC. Sez11-100...
  • Page 106 ENGINE Carefully lift the cylinder barrel (10) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical. If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (3). Since insertion of piston in the barrel is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the piston together with the barrel as described below.
  • Page 107 ENGINE Remove the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase studs between the barrel and the base gasket (5). Important Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed: V= Vertical - H= Horizontal To remove the vertical barrel-piston assembly, bring the vertical piston to TDC and proceed as for removal of the horizontal cylinder barrel.

  • Page 108: Overhaul Of The Cylinder Barrel/Piston Components

    ENGINE Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components Overhauling the cylinder Check that the walls are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at 50 mm from the top surface and determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in Sect. Cylinder/ Piston.

  • Page 109: Checking The Piston-Cylinder Clearance

    ENGINE Overhauling the piston Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves of any carbon deposits. Inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other damage. The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt at a 90º angle to the gudgeon pin.
  • Page 110 ENGINE Overhauling the gudgeon pins Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The well-lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness. The assembly clearance with the piston at the time of installation must be 0.002-0.008 mm. The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.035 mm.

  • Page 111: Checking The Piston Ring-Grooves Clearance

    ENGINE checking the piston ring-grooves clearance The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top compression ring (1st) and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd and oil control ring). The markings punched on the piston rings must always be facing upwards. Sez11-106...

  • Page 112: Checking The Piston Ring/Cylinder Clearance

    ENGINE checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance Insert the ring in the cylinder bore so that it is positioned 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder barrel; make sure that the ring is positioned perfectly square to the cylinder walls by checking with a gauge at several points around the ring that the top surface of the ring is exactly 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder barrel.
  • Page 113 ENGINE 11.12 - cLUTcH ASSEMBLY: cLUTcH 13) Clutch drum 1) Clutch spring 14) Bearing 2) Collar 15) O-ring 3) Clutch lifter 16) Spacer 4) Bolt 17) O-ring 5) Lock washer 18) Nut 6) Cush drive rubber 19) Locating dowel 7) Cush drive hub 20) Bush 8) Clutch plates 21) Clutch cover gasket...

  • Page 114: Description

    ENGINE Description The clutch is disengaged by a slave cylinder consisting of a piston (1) housed inside a cylinder mounted to the left-hand crankcase cover. This piston (1) moves a pushrod (2), which runs through gearbox input shaft and operates the pressure plate (3) located on top of the clutch plate pack (4).

  • Page 115: Removal Of The Clutch

    ENGINE Removal of the clutch Remove the side fairings Notes For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. Undo the four retaining bolts (23) and the two retaining bolts (24) from the clutch cover (22). Remove the cover and the sound deadening gasket (21). Unscrew the retaining bolts (4) and remove the collars (2) and the clutch springs (1).
  • Page 116 ENGINE Remove the pressure plate (12). Remove the clutch lifter (3) and its O-ring (17) using a suitable drift and a plastic headed mallet. Then remove the bearing (14) installed from inner side of the pressure plate (12) using a drift of suitable size. Notes Once disturbed, the bearing must be renewed.
  • Page 117 ENGINE Remove the clutch plates (8). When removing the clutch plates, keep them together in pairs in the correct order and set them aside, tying them together, if necessary. Restrain the clutch centre (10) using service tool 88713.2133 and remove the centre nut (18). Remove the washer (5), bush (20) and thrust washer (9).
  • Page 118 ENGINE Remove the clutch centre (10) complete with the cush drive rubbers from the shaft. When renewing the cush drive rubbers (6), use a drift to remove the hub (7) from the clutch centre (10) and overcome the resistance of the rubbers. Sez11-113...
  • Page 119 ENGINE Slide off the spacer (16), taking care not to damage its internal O-ring (15). Visually check the O-ring for wear and renew it if necessary. Locate the service tool 88713.1805 to prevent the clutch drum from rotating when loosening the screws (11). Notes If no cover parts need to be serviced, leave the clutch drum assembly and the primary drive gear installed on the clutch cover.

  • Page 120: Inspection And Overhaul Of The Clutch Components

    ENGINE Inspection and overhaul of the clutch components checking the clearance between the clutch drum and the friction plates Insert the friction plate (A) in the clutch drum (B) and measure tang-to-slot clearance (S) with a feeler gauge. The clearance “S” must not exceed 0.6 mm. If it does, renew the plates and, if necessary, the clutch drum.
  • Page 121 ENGINE Overhaul of the pressure plate Check the condition of the bearing: renew the bearing if the play is excessive. Check the contact surface of last plain steel plate. If extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described previously for the cylinder head surface. Check the condition of the spring guide cups and always replace the spring retaining collars.
  • Page 122 ENGINE 11.13 - cLUTcH ASSEMBLY: RIGHT-HAND SIDE cRANKcASE cOVER 1) Locating dowel 2) O-ring 3) Plug 4) Oil level plug 5) Bolt 6) Ring 7) O-ring 8) Seal 9) Switch 10) Bush 11) Oil seal 12) Shim 13) Circlip 14) Right-hand side crankcase cover 15) Bolt 16) Plug 17) Seal...

  • Page 123: Removal Of The Right-Hand Side Crankcase Cover

    ENGINE Removal of the right-hand side crankcase cover Remove the side fairings Drain the engine oil Remove the clutch centre Notes For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. Undo and remove the six short bolts (5) and the long retaining bolts (15) and (19) from the crankcase cover (14).
  • Page 124 ENGINE Disassembly of the right-hand side crankcase cover Remove the plug (3) and the O-ring (7), the engine oil pressure sensor (9) and the seal (8), the plug (16) and the seal (17) from the crankcase cover. Remove the circlip (13) and withdraw the shim (12) and the oil seal (11). The drilled bush (10) is mounted to the cover by a forced interference fit.
  • Page 125 ENGINE To check the condition of the oil seal (6) installed in the crankcase cover between the clutch drum and the primary drive gear, first remove the latter two components Sect. “Removal of the clutch”. Sez11-120...
  • Page 126 ENGINE 11.14 - cLUTcH ASSEMBLY: PRIMARY DRIVE GEARS 1) O-ring 2) Oil seal 3) Primary drive gears 4) Bearing 5) Circlip 6) Bearing 7) Spacer 8) Spacer 9) Spacer 10) Lock washer 11) Nut 12) Circlip Sez11-121...

  • Page 127: Removal Of The Primary Drive Gears

    ENGINE Removal of the primary drive gears Remove the side fairings Remove the clutch drum, the clutch centre and the clutch plate pack Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover Notes For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. Withdraw from the input shaft the spacer (8) and the O-ring (1) seated against the bearing (6) of the driven gear (C) of the primary drive (3).
  • Page 128 ENGINE Important Once disturbed, the oil seal (2), circlip (12) and the spacer (5) must be renewed. The latter two components must always be renewed as a pair. Remove the spacer (7) from the gearbox input shaft. Remove the oil pump (Sect. N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump) in order to be able to disengage the driving gear (D).

  • Page 129: Sez11

    ENGINE Install the tool 88713.2102 on the gear (D) and hold it against rotation by inserting a pin in one of the engine mounting bolt holes. Loosen the retaining nut (11) of the driving gear (D) using a socket wrench of suitable length. Remove the nut (11) and the lock washer (10).

  • Page 130: Refitting The Primary Drive Gears And Checking Backlash

    ENGINE Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash Carefully degrease the splined end of the crankshaft and the corresponding internal splines of the primary gear. Fit the inner spacer (9) to the shaft with its flat side facing outwards. Fit gear (D) onto the crankshaft with oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
  • Page 131 ENGINE If fitting a new primary drive gear pair (3), check the backlash. Temporarily fit the gear (C) complete with the bearings and the oil seal onto the gearbox input shaft and fix a dial gauge on the crankcase; position the dial gauge stylus on a gear tooth. Turn the driven gear (D) to mesh the teeth and check with the dial tool that backlash ranges between 0.05 and 0.07 mm.
  • Page 132 ENGINE Stake the washer (10) on the gear (D) in correspondence with the milled location and on the nut (11) in a diagonally opposed position. Refit the oil pump and check the meshing play between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the crankshaft Refit the right-hand crankcase cover Refit the clutch drum, clutch centre and the clutch plate pack...
  • Page 133 ENGINE 11.15 - GEARBOx ASSEMBLY: GEARcHANGE MEcHANISM 1) Return spring 15) Selector drum control fork 2) Washer 16) Gearchange lever pin 3) Special screw 17) Shaft with gearchange lever arm 4) Gear pawl assembly 18) Gearchange lever arm return spring 5) Interlock plunger holder 19) Bolt 6) Seal...

  • Page 134: Removal Of The Gearchange Mechanism

    ENGINE Removal of the gearchange mechanism Remove the left-hand side crankcase cover and flywheel/alternator assembly Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover complete with clutch drum and primary drive gear Undo and remove the bolts (18) and (20) securing the gearchange mechanism (25). Remove the gearchange mechanism complete with the shaft, spring, and stop plate.
  • Page 135 ENGINE If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gear selector lever as shown in the exploded view. Reassemble the gearchange mechanism, orienting the eccentric pin (15) in such a way that the lever arm (16) is positioned centrally with respect to the shoulders of the stop plate (23). Now tighten the nut (13) to the specified torque Sez11-130...

  • Page 136: Disassembly Of Gear Interlock Plunger And Pawl Assembly

    ENGINE Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly Unscrew the interlock plunger screw (5) and remove the seal (6), spring (7) and the detent ball (8). Unscrew the RH crankcase half bolt (3) and remove the pawl (4), washer (2) and spring (1). Sez11-131...

  • Page 137: Sez11

    ENGINE 11.16 - GEARBOx ASSEMBLY: GEARBOx SHAFTS 1) Shim, thk. 1 mm 18) 1st speed driven gear 2) Gearbox input shaft 19) Shim, thk. 1 mm 3) Shim, thk. 0.5 mm 20) 5th speed driven gear 4) Needle roller bearing 21) 4th speed driven gear 5) 5th speed driving gear 22) 3rd speed driven gear...

  • Page 138: Removal Of The Gearbox Assembly

    ENGINE Removal of the gearbox assembly Remove the engine from the frame Separate the crankcase halves Withdraw the selector fork shafts (30). Move the forks (28) and (29) to disengage them from the slots in the selector drum (34). Withdraw the selector drum (16) taking care not to lose shims (31) and (27) mounted on the shaft. Note that the positions of the shims must not be inverted.
  • Page 139 ENGINE Now you can renew the needle roller retaining ring (32) and the special needle rollers (33). Remove gear selector forks (29) and (28). Remove the gearbox input (2) and output (25) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the spacers on the ends of the shafts.

  • Page 140: Disassembly Of The Gearbox Shafts

    ENGINE Disassembly of the gearbox shafts Place the shaft in a vice in such a way as to facilitate the disassembly operations. Important Take care not to invert the positions of the shims on reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the engine crankcase.
  • Page 141 ENGINE Remove the fifth speed driven gear (20). Use two flat screwdrivers to remove the circlip (7) taking care not to damage the shaft surface. Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6). Sez11-136...
  • Page 142 ENGINE Withdraw the fourth speed driven gear (21) with the roller cage (4) and splined washer (12). Remove the third speed driven gear (22) with the roller cage (4) and the splined washer (6). Remove the circlip (7) and remove the sixth speed driven gear (23). Sez11-137...

  • Page 143: Disassembly Of The Gearbox Input Shaft

    ENGINE Remove the circlip (7) and withdraw the splined washer (6) and the second speed driven gear (24). Withdraw the roller cage (4) and the shim (3). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox output shaft (25). Disassembly of the gearbox input shaft Remove the chain-side shim (11) and the clutch-side shim (1) from the input shaft.
  • Page 144 ENGINE Remove the second speed driving gear (10). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6). Important Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing circlip (7). Remove the sixth speed driving gear (9) with its roller cage (4). Remove the splined washer (6) and the circlip (7).

  • Page 145: Sez11

    ENGINE Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6). Remove the fifth speed driving gear (5) with the roller cage (4). Sez11-140...

  • Page 146: Overhaul Of The Gearbox

    ENGINE Slide the shim (3) off the input shaft (2). Overhaul of the gearbox Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of wear on the edges of the teeth. The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.

  • Page 147: Inspection Of The Gear Selector Forks

    ENGINE Inspection of the gear selector forks Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be renewed as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing or may suddenly disengage when under load. Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove. If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to renew the gear or the fork by referring to the limits specified for each part Sect.

  • Page 148: Inspection Of The Gear Selector Drum

    ENGINE Inspection of the gear selector drum Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the slot on the selector drum. If the service limit is exceeded, determine which part must be renewed by comparing these dimensions with those of new components Sect.

  • Page 149: Sez11

    ENGINE 11.17 - FLYWHEEL - ALTERNATOR 1) Bolt 18) Washer 2) Cylinder coolant inlet union 19) Inner ring 3) Ignition inspection plug 20) Needle roller bearing 4) Oil seal 21) Electric starter driven gear 5) O-ring 22) Starter clutch 6) Cover 23) Flywheel-starter clutch assembly 7) Bolt 24) Alternator rotor...

  • Page 150: Removal Of The Left-Hand Side Crankcase Cover

    ENGINE Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover Remove the front sprocket cover Drain the engine oil Remove the clutch pushrod Remove the pump-cylinder hoses Remove the water pump-radiator hose Notes This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are easier with the engine on the bench.

  • Page 151: Sez11

    ENGINE Unscrew the left-hand crankcase cover bolts (1), (11), (12) and (13). Fix service tool 88713.1749 to the holes of the two bolts (7) you have just removed. Turn the tool shaft slowly to remove the cover (29) from the LH crankcase half. Sez11-146...

  • Page 152: Disassembly Of The Left-Hand Crankcase Cover

    ENGINE On the cover in correspondence with the gearchange shaft, there is an oil seal (4) that may be damaged when removing the crankcase cover. Always check the condition of this oil seal and renew it if damaged. Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover Undo the three stator retaining bolts (25) and the two cable guide bracket (31) retaining bolts (32) from inside the LH crankcase cover.
  • Page 153 ENGINE Unscrew the horizontal and vertical cylinder coolant inlet unions (2). When fitting new components, apply the recommended threadlocker and tighten to the specified torque. Important The unions (2) may also be removed without removing the LH crankcase cover (29) from the engine. Disassemble the components of the water pump (B) as described in Sect.

  • Page 154: Sez11

    ENGINE Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly Use service tool no. 88713.2874 fixed to the M10 side stand fixing holes (D). Lock the tool to the flywheel with screw (E). Unscrew the alternator/flywheel retaining nut (15). Warning While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the wrench socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the wrench suddenly slipping off the nut.

  • Page 155: Overhaul Of The Flywheel/Alternator Assembly

    ENGINE Remove the inner ring (19), the needle roller bearing (20) and the washer (18). Important Check the bush (19), the needle roller bearing (20) and the inner washer (18) for wear. Renew if worn. Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly Check that the inner part of alternator rotor (24) shows no signs of damage.

  • Page 156: Sez11

    ENGINE Disassembly of the flywheel/alternator Undo the eight bolts (26) and remove the rotor (24) from the flywheel. Insert two of the bolts (26) just removed from the flywheel rotor-side in their holes in order to remove the flange (14) and the starter clutch (22) from the flywheel (17). The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange.

  • Page 157: Sez11

    ENGINE Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly Install the starter clutch (22) in the flange (14) to bring the edge (A) of the clutch up against the flange. Important Assemble the components (starter clutch and flange) so that the edge (A) of the starter clutch is positioned on side of the flange with the bevelled edge (B).
  • Page 158 ENGINE Seat the flange (14) with the starter clutch (22) in the flywheel (17), aligning the flange locating hole (C) with the flywheel locating hole (D). Notes The flange locating hole (C) is the hole with the countersunk lead-in (E). The locating hole (D) of the flywheel can be either one of the two holes (F).
  • Page 159 ENGINE Important Assemble the components (flange and flywheel) so that edge (A) of the starter clutch (22) is enclosed between the flange and flywheel. Install the rotor (24) on the flywheel (17), aligning the flywheel locating hole (D) with the rotor locating hole (G). Notes The flywheel locating hole (D) of the flywheel is the hole that was previously aligned with the flange locating hole (C), i.e.
  • Page 160 ENGINE Tighten the bolts (26) to the specified torque, in the indicated sequence. Sez11-155...

  • Page 161: Sez11

    ENGINE Lubricate the surface (L) of the driven gear (21) with engine oil. Install the driven gear in the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated. Notes To facilitate installation, rotate the driven gear in the direction of the green arrow. Hold the flywheel (17) with one hand and check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the green arrow but not in the direction of the red arrow.

  • Page 162: Sez11

    ENGINE 11.18 - cRANKcASE ASSEMBLY: ExTERNAL cOMPONENTS 18) Washer 1) Oil breather valve 19) Starter idler gear 2) O-ring 3) Seal 20) Washer 4) Neutral switch 21) Gear shaft 22) O-ring 5) Cylinder barrel/head stud 23) Engine sensor 6) Nipple 24) Shim 7) By-pass spring 8) Nipple...

  • Page 163: Removal Of External Components

    ENGINE Removal of external components Remove the engine from the frame Remove the lubrication system Remove the oil filter cartridge Remove the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts Remove the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies Unscrew the bolt (17) and remove the oil breather valve (1) with the O-rings (2). Check the condition of O-rings (2) and renew them if necessary.

  • Page 164: Sez11

    ENGINE Unscrew and remove the oil filter support nipple (6) and remove also by-pass spring (7). Remove the mesh filter (A) with its seal from the right-hand crankcase half. Remove the drain plug (10) with its seal (9). Sez11-159...

  • Page 165: Sez11

    ENGINE Remove the neutral switch (4) with seal (3). Remove the cylinder head studs (5) with the aid of the appropriate tool. Sez11-160...

  • Page 166: Sez11

    ENGINE To remove the engine sensor (23), unscrew the bolt (25) and recover the shim (24) and the washer (26). Check the condition of O-rings (22) and renew them if necessary. If the engine sensor is to be renewed, it will be necessary to check the air gap as indicated in the paragraph “Checking the engine sensor air gap”.
  • Page 167 ENGINE Fit the engine sensor (23) in its seat in the crankcase. Position the 0.6 mm thick shim (24). Insert the bolt (25) with the washer (26) and tighten to the specified torque Sez11-162...
  • Page 168 ENGINE Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (23) and the timing gear (13). The value must be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm. Notes If the gap is incorrect, loosen the screw (25) of the engine sensor and replace the shim (24) with one of suitable thickness paragraph “Checking the engine sensor air gap”.
  • Page 169 ENGINE Tighten the two oil hose connection nipples (8) with the seals (27) to the specified torque. Locate the by-pass spring (7) and screw on the nipple (6) that supports the oil filter cartridge, tightening to the specified torque. Tighten drain plug (10) and seal (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) applying the specified threadlocker.
  • Page 170 ENGINE Refit the neutral switch (4) with seal (3). Refit the mesh filter (A) with seal as described in Now fit the studs (5) on the crankcase halves, applying thread locker and tightening to the specified torque value. Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation. Refit the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies Refit the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts Refit the oil filter cartridge...

  • Page 171: Removal Of The Timing Gears

    ENGINE Removal of the timing gears Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly Slide out driving gear (A) of timing gear pair (13) and remove the Woodruff key (14). Relieve the staking on the lock washer (12) of the nut (11). Restrain the driven timing gear by inserting a pin (C) in one of the holes, and unscrew the nut (11).

  • Page 172: Removal Of The Starter Motor Idler Gear

    ENGINE Removal of the starter motor idler gear Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly Unscrew the bolt (29) and remove the idler gear (31) with the washers (30) and (32) and the shaft (33). Sez11-167...

  • Page 173: Sez11

    ENGINE For models with starter idler gear (19), remove the circlip (28) and the washer (18). Remove the gear (19) and the washer (20). Unscrew the bolt (16) and remove the shaft (21). It is now possible to remove the starter motor checking the engine sensor air gap If either the alternator or the engine sensor has been renewed, the sensor air gap must be checked as described below.
  • Page 174 ENGINE Insert a feeler gauge (A) through the hole, positioning it between the end of sensor (23) and the teeth of timing belt driveshaft gear. Check that gap is 0.6 to 0.8 mm. If not, slacken off the screw (25) securing the sensor (23) so as to extract the shim (24) and replace it with one of suitable thickness.

  • Page 175: Sez11

    ENGINE 11.19 - cRANKcASE ASSEMBLY: cRANKcASE HALVES 1) Bearing 18) Bearing 2) Bearing shell 19) Bearing 3) Crankcase half - front 20) Bolt 4) Bearing 21) Spacer 5) Circlip 22) Bush 6) Washer 23) Bearing 7) Bearing 24) Bolt (M6x35) 8) Oil seal 25) Bolt (M8x75) 9) Bearing...

  • Page 176: Sez11

    ENGINE Separation of the crankcase halves Remove the engine from the frame Remove the lubrication system Remove the cooling system Remove the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts Remove the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly Remove the engine starting system Remove the right-hand crankcase cover Remove the clutch assembly...
  • Page 177 ENGINE Unscrew the two bolts (12) and (25) on the right-hand side near the vertical cylinder. Re-use the left-hand crankcase cover or a service cover with puller 88713.1749. Secure it to the crankcase half using some of the original bolts and begin separating the crankcase halves by turning the central pin of the tool. Tap the end of the gearbox output shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
  • Page 178 ENGINE Drive out the crankshaft (L) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the shims. Remove the timing belt driveshaft (30). Remove the bolts (34), remove the hoses (33) and recover the O-rings (32). Sez11-173...

  • Page 179: Sez11

    ENGINE Overhaul of the crankcase halves Carefully examine the engine crankcase halves. Check that the surfaces of the crankcases are perfectly flat using a reference surface. Check that bearings (1) and (18) and bushes (2) and (17) are in perfect condition. Note that the main bearings must always be changed in pairs Notes When overhauling an engine it is good practice to renew all the crankcase bearings.

  • Page 180: Sez11

    ENGINE At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the oil seal (8) on the outside of bearing (9). Renew the bearings (7) and (23) on the ends of the gearbox shafts and timing belt driveshaft bearings (4) and (15).
  • Page 181 ENGINE Take care not to lose the shim (6) interposed between the bearing (7) on the end of the gearbox input shaft and the chain side crankcase half. The oil seal (14) on the external side of the roller bearing (15) must be renewed at each engine overhaul. Sez11-176...
  • Page 182 ENGINE Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging. Check the condition of locating dowels (22). In the event of signs of distortion or excessive assembly clearance with the corresponding seats, remove the locating dowels using appropriate tools. If it proves difficult to remove the dowels (22) from the crankcase, use a tap with a left-hand thread to force them out.

  • Page 183: Sez11

    ENGINE Main bearings The main bearings have are of the angular contact type with offset inner races so that the balls transmit loads from one groove to the other along straight lines at an angle to the axis of the bearing. Angular contact thrust bearings are designed to withstand combined loads (radial and axial loads).

  • Page 184: Shimming The Shafts

    ENGINE Shimming the shafts Before assembling the crankcase halves, calculate the shims required to obtain the correct end float of the crankshaft and gearbox shafts. To determine the correct shim thicknesses proceed as follows. Sez11-179...

  • Page 185: Shimming The Crankshaft

    ENGINE Shimming the crankshaft After fitting the new main bearings, proceed as follows to determine the total shim thickness “SA”: measure the distance “LA” between the bearing contact surfaces on the crankshaft; measure the depths “LA1” and “LA2” corresponding to the distance between contact surface of the crankcase half and the contact surface of the inner race of the bearings.

  • Page 186: Sez11

    ENGINE In addition to the above description, the following text illustrates a practical shimming procedure, providing a guide on how to calculate the crankshaft shim thicknesses accurately. Install a shim of minimum thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of the crankshaft to prevent contact between the crankshaft web and the engine block.

  • Page 187: Sez11

    ENGINE Insert a lever (B) between the crankcase and the crank web and force the crankshaft towards the dial gauge. Note the dial gauge reading. This is the crankshaft endfloat. Add a preload of (0.30 mm) plus the thickness of the shims used (1.90x2=3.8 mm).

  • Page 188: Shimming The Gearbox Shafts

    ENGINE Shimming the gearbox shafts To establish the total shim thicknesses to be installed on the input shaft “SP” and the output shaft “SS”, proceed as follows: Measure the dimensions “LP” and “LS” on the input and output shafts (for the output shaft add shim thickness “R”...

  • Page 189: Shimming The Gearbox Selector Drum

    ENGINE Shimming the gearbox selector drum A similar procedure is used to establish the total shimming thickness “ST” for the gearbox drum. Given that: LT1 = right-hand side crankcase depth LT2 = left-hand side crankcase depth LT = gearbox selector drum shoulder. Given that end float should be 0 10 to 0.40 mm.

  • Page 190: Sez11

    ENGINE 11.20 - cRANKcASE ASSEMBLY: cONNEcTING RODS 1) Special screw 2) Connecting rod assembly 3) Half bearing 4) Grub screw 5) Key 6) Crankshaft 7) Grub screw 8) Shim 9) Bushes Sez11-185...

  • Page 191: Sez11

    ENGINE Removal of the connecting rods assembly Remove the engine from the frame Remove the lubrication system Remove the cooling system Remove the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts Remove the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly Remove the engine starting system Remove the right-hand crankcase cover Remove the clutch assembly...

  • Page 192: Overhaul Of The Connecting Rods

    ENGINE Overhaul of the connecting rods Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods: - clearance with gudgeon pin on assembly. In the event of excessive wear, renew the connecting rod. The small end bushing must be in good condition and firmly driven into its seat. Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis: the value must be H - h less than 0.02 mm;...

  • Page 193: Renewal Of The Small End Bushing

    ENGINE Renewal of the small end bushing To remove the worn bushing, use a suitable drift and a press. Drill lubrication holes into the new bushing in correspondence with the existing lubrication holes on the connecting rod small end. Now ream out the bushing until the inside diameter (D) is 20.035 to 20.045 mm. connecting rod bearings It is good practice to renew the bearings (3) each time the engine is overhauled.

  • Page 194: Crankshaft

    ENGINE crankshaft The main bearing and big-end journals should not be scored or grooved; the threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition. Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder. Fillet radius: 2 mm. Sez11-189...
  • Page 195 ENGINE With the aid of a micrometer, measure the ovality and taper of the big-end journals, taking the measurements in various different directions. Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by setting the crankshaft between two opposing centres.

  • Page 196: Sez11

    ENGINE Unscrew all the plugs (4) and (7) from the crankshaft, heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to release the threadlocker applied at the time of assembly. Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any residues that have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.

  • Page 197: Big-End Bearing Shell-Journal Clearance

    ENGINE Big-end bearing shell-journal clearance To check the assembly clearance between the bearing shells and crankshaft journals you will lay a strip (A) of GREEN “Plastigage PG-1” on the journal. Fit the connecting rod with the original bearings and tighten the screws to a torque of 50 Nm.
  • Page 198 ENGINE Check that each connecting rod (2) and cap are fitted with their locating pins (D). Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air. Clean and lubricate the journals and con-rod bearing shells (3) with engine oil and fit the connecting rods in their original mounting positions.
  • Page 199 ENGINE Fit the spacer of the tool 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial play with the fork feeler gauge of the tool 88713.2878 which is available in the following thicknesses: 0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm. Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin to align the connecting rods, and then tighten the bolts.

  • Page 200: Refitting The Connecting Rods

    ENGINE Refitting the connecting rods. Install the connecting rod assembly (7) and (2) in the crankcase, carry out the shimming and crankcase reassembly procedure as described in Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves. Important Make sure that the connecting rods (2) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase.
  • Page 201 2008 Bimota Spa Rimini ITALY...

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