Section1: Introduction Thank you for choosing to purchase the new version Interstage Mono Blocks from AudioNoteKits Ltd. Circuit Description The model is the 300B Parallel version which provides approx 20W of single ended power with zero feedback – The design is unique in that is uses a 1:1 interstage transformer between the driver stage and the output stage – see below for a brief circuit description: These amps are fronted by a 6SH7, connected as a triode, which may seem a little unusual, but apart from the 6SH7 and the similar, but in a smaller package 6AU6 both being good sounding valves, and the fact that they are available at...
Section 2: Mechanical Section The first part of this manual will be the mechanical installation that is required – once that is completed we will proceed with the wiring part! First of all we use Metric Hardware in the kit – M3 and M4 metric – an M4 screw is similar to a #8 in the imperial system and an M3 is between a #4 &...
Install the tang strip as shown with the PEMS (little threaded standoffs) facing up to the sky. Now use the black or stainless M3 10mm screws and m3 nuts to secure the tang strips to the chassis. You can position the front insert plate in the chassis just to see how it fits but we will not be securing it in place now –...
Heat Sink Installation Our next task is to install the heat sink against the chassis which will be used by the Filament Section of the Monoblock. Basically the 300B tubes receive a 5V DC filament voltage via a regulator that needs to be heat sunk in order for it to operate properly.
The idea is that the filament board will eventually sit up on the screw and align with the heatsink! Ok good work so far! Ceramic Hardware post installation Now we will install the ceramic posts for the power supply hardwiring – they use M3 countersunk screws which go through the top of the chassis and secure the ceramic posts on the...
8 Pin valve base installation – rectifier location Now we will install the 8 pin valve base into the rear hole – the only trick is that the notch in valve base faces towards the front of the chassis. Installation of the three Power Supply Caps 250uf 500v Install the three caps into position.
Installing the Mains transformer We are going to install the T-199 Mains transformer now into position. Primary Side I suggest you lay the transformer upside down beside the chassis in the format shown. The Mains transformer has a primary side (0 110 120 etc.) and a secondary (400 300 0 300 400 etc).
Installing the Interstage Transformer Lets install the Interstage transformer – this is the transformer shown below with the 4 colored wires on it. Use M4 screws and washers to install. The choke, which is similar in size, just has two black wires. Installing the Choke Install the CHOKE in the same manner.
Section 3: IEC Section and Chassis Ground The first picture shows the IEC socket installed in the back of the unit with the 2 x M3 10mm csk screws, along with the mains switch, which simply pushes through the hole. Install these as shown.
Now you can install the green wire with GND lug and crimp on to the GND post of the IEC socket which is the one on the bottom of the IEC. The third wire will be used later for the power supply ground.
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We have provided a number of pre-made cables & parts for this section to make it nice and clean 1. 2 CRIMPS 2. Heatshrink 3. IEC GND >> CHASSIS GND cable (already used) 4. Blue/Brown Twisted CRIMPED cable For 120 V operation take the twisted white and twisted black pairs of wires. Let’s start with the white pair –...
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Then add the prepared heat shrink on the end. If you do not have a heat gun you can run your soldering iron over the heat shrink quickly and it will shrink – clean excess solder your soldering iron if you use this method. Once that is complete you can insert the crimp on to the bottom of the rocker switch.
Section 4: Power Supply Wiring In this section, we are going to start wiring the power supply. You should follow the following diagram as you progress through the section. It may be a good idea to use a highlight pen on the diagram as you progress. Rectifier Wiring –...
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Take the yellow twisted wire and cut to an appropriate length like in the photographs – leave a little extra – now cut the wires, strip the insulation off the end and I suggest tinning the wire and then trimming again – then position the wire into the correct valve base pin –...
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Installation of the 100R resistor into the first position – this resistor is between power supply ground and chassis ground. Now add the .001uf capacitor across this resistor and leave the leg on the right side so that we can bend it up and have it connect to position 2.
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Now let’s wire in the CHOKE. The choke has two wires – both black and either can be used as input or output – a choke is basically one long piece of wire wrapped around a core in order to slow down any AC movement –...
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Now let’s add the first power supply connection of the red wire from the 15K resistor to the + of the 100+100uf capacitor (see red wire at the right of this picture). 2010 Interstage Mono Block Kit – AudioNoteKits Before we continue with wiring up the power supply capacitors let’s make the connections to the 150R power resistor mounted on the...
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2010 Interstage Mono Block Kit – AudioNoteKits Then connect the output of the resistor power supply capacitor as shown below and also connect the other wire of the Interstage CHOKE. 330K S-GND 100R .001 100+10 150R 250uf CHASSIS GND 250uf secondary Mains Transformer...
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At this stage you can complete the rest of the power supply wiring by following the graphic below: 2010 Interstage Mono Block Kit – AudioNoteKits Interstage 330K S-GND 100R 100+10 150R Power Supply Capacitors 250uf CHASSIS GND 250uf secondary Mains Transformer So basically examine the hi resolution pictures along with the graphic and the schematic to double check your work –...
Section 5: Filament Supply Section In this section we are going to build the Filament Supply Board – this PCB basically takes in the AC voltage from the secondary’s (7vAC) and converts it to 5V DC for the 300B valve bases. CAPACITOR 4700uF 16V Bridge Rectifier...
Now install the 2 bridge rectifiers (KBU6J). You will note on the PCB that the locations for the Bridge Rectifiers BR1 & BR2 have a + designation at the bottom. Then if you look at the bridge rectifier itself you will notice they have a corner cut off –...
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Remove the screw when you are finished as we have to add some more wiring to the filament board along with the insulation kit before we bolt into position. With the filament board now prepared let’s get the Mains secondary wires that we will be connecting to it to provide the AC voltage input –...
Section 6: Installing the Front Insert Plate There are a number of ways to proceed on the mono block build and what we outline in the manual is a very good guide to follow – if you feel that you have some very good experience and would like to make your own changes feel free to do so and just check your work with the schematics provided.
Section 7: Mains secondary to Filament Section Wiring We are now going to complete some inter-wiring to the Filament Board by taking the two twisted pairs of wires from the Mains secondary and connecting these to the FILAMENT board. Take the blue wire and black wire and twist them together from the Mains secondary and lay them along the edge of the chassis –...
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At this point it is worthwhile to do a little test with an ohm meter to make sure that the regulators are indeed isolated from the heatsink via the mica – The reason for this is as follows: The amplifier requires that the 5V DC supplied to the 300B tube is “floating” this allows the cathode of the 300B to sit at 60V approx and allows current to flow correctly through the 300B tube –...
Section 8: Installing the Front Insert Plate Let’s install the front insert plate in the chassis by securing into position with the M3 screws – no nuts required as the tang strips have PEMS on them with threads for screw. Ok well done to this point –...
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The above graphic shows some connections that we will now make between the front insert plate and the power supply: 1. Filament supply to the 6SH7 tube – basically you will need to extend the twisted brown wires from the Mains secondary’s and position them along the edge of the chassis as shown and then connect to the filament pins on the 6SH7 pins 2 &...
Front Insert Panel Wiring For the front insert wiring we have some nice graphics showing you all the connections that need to be made for this section – We have labeled the tag strip with the letters A, B, C, D ,E ,F ,G and H and we have a little chart showing what connections are to be made to each of these “tags”.
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I suggest you refer to the Slides in the appendix which are each on a full page for added detail. Start by adding the wires between A & H and then another length of wire between C & F – I suggest that you tin the wire after you have cut it to length and insert through the hole in the tag strip.
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Add the three electrolytic capacitors and be sure to orient the correct + and – sides to the capacitors as per the diagram. Connect a red wire from pin 2 to pin 2 of each 300B. Connect a black wire from B to pin 1 TOP and G to pin 4 BOTTOM –...
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Now you can connect up the input RCA – Install the RCA and then you will need to add the input resistors in the configuration shown in the graphic – a 1K resistor connects to pin 4 of the 6SH7 valve base – while the 100K resistor connects between the RCA input and GROUND and then also connects to TAG-D.
300B Filament Wiring Now take the twisted black/red filament wire from the DC Filament section (BLUE PCB) and connect to the 300B as shown in the graphic above – would be good idea to tin the leads of the filament wire after you strip it and install.
Finally connect the S-GND wire from the Power supply section to TAG-D if not already completed. Front Insert Plate Wiring Chart check list 6SH7 Pin 1 – Not connected Pin 2 – AC Brown Filament from Mains secondary Pin 3 – 330R, Wire to TAG-E Pin 4 –...
300B TOP Pin 1 – RED Filament wire from DC filament Board Pin 2 – Red wire to Pin 2 of Bottom 300B (HT) Pin 3 – 1K resistor that connects to TAG C Pin 4 – BLACK Filament wire from DC filament Board 300B BOTTOM Pin 1 –...
Section 9: Final Connections Take the Black wire from the output transformer primary and connect to the bottom 250uf capacitor – POSITIVE. SPEAKER BINDING POST Connections O/P TX P - GND Speaker 4 ohm Bind 8 ohm posts Above we have a graphical representation of the connections to the speaker posts on the side of the chassis – the IE core output transformer has three colored wires on the secondary –...
Section 10: Finishing Off and Testing We have now completed the Mono Block and we are going to go through a process to power on and test the unit to make sure it is working properly. As you can see we have our amplifier along some of the tools that you will find useful a.
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A good place to start would be to measure resistance – let’s do an easy one and check the voltage across the GOLD 150R resistor that is attached to the chassis in the power supply section. Put a probe on each side of this resistor and check the resistance and you should see 150 ohms.
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As a next step you could turn on the Amplifier with no tubes installed and then we can check some filament voltages - we can also see if the fuse is going to blow or not! When the 1 is pressed down the amplifier is ON. Let’s check the 5V DC on the filament pins of the 300B –...
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If all is well then you can install the 300B tubes and the 6SH7 tube into position on the front insert plate. In the foreground of this picture we have the two versions of the 6SH7 that can be used: 6SH7 –...
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Once the rectifier tube is installed then you can power on the amplifier BUT PLEASE READ FIRST IF you have a VARIAC then you can take advantage of it here and turn on the amplifier slowly maybe to 30volts AC input , then 60 , then 90 –...
Check your schematic and check for red interstage wire connecting to the 6SH7 – this is pin 8 and you should measure in the 170-180V range – if the voltage is quite high here like over 230V then contact us. Now lets check the cathode of the 300B –...
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Then check the other side of the last 15K resistor and you should see about 300V DC. Then measure the voltage at input to the 15 resistors and you should see 418 volts – this is also the output of the CHOKE 165 in the power supply. Let’s continue working back and measure the DC voltage at the output of the 150R resistor and we see we have 434 volts and then check the DC voltage at the input to the 150R resistor.
Audio Checks Now that we have an amplifier with all correct DC conditions it’s now time to pass an AC audio signal through the amplifier to verify that it is working correctly! Let’s start by installing the dummy load on the speaker terminals – this is a power resistor of about 8 or 10 ohms which simulates hooking up a speaker to the amp.
Final Stage We have now verified proper AC conditions – a final test that you can bypass if you wish but I recommend is to plug a old speaker into the amplifier as shown opposite. I just think that it is safe to test the amplifier on a “cheap” pair of speakers prior to plugging into the real system –...
Appendix The appendix contains auxiliary information. That is information that is either common to most project manuals or any last minute pieces of information that did not make it into the manual in time. It may also contain pull-out circuit diagrams that may be handy to have outside the manual etc.
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