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Compound Miter Cut; Miter Saw - Craftsman 315.212040 Operator's Manual

10 in. compound miter saw double insulated
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A compound
miter cut is a cut made using a miter angle
and a bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is
used to make picture frames, cut molding, make boxes
with sloping sides, and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the control arm on the miter table
must be rotated to the correct angle and the saw arm
must be tilted to the correct bevel angle. Care should al-
ways be taken when making compound
miter setups due
to the interaction of the two angle settings.
of miter and bevel settings are interde-
pendent with one another. Each time you adjust the miter
setting you change the effect of the bevel setting. Also,
each time you adjust the bevel setting you change the ef-
fect of the miter setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The
first angle setting should be checked after setting the
second angle, since adjusting the second angle affects
the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have
been obtained, always make a test cut in scrap material
before making a finish cut in good material.
Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its full height.
Loosen the miter lock handle. Rotate the miter lock
handle approximately
one-half turn to the left to
Press the miter lock plate down with your thumb and
Rotate the control arm until the pointer aligns with the
desired angle on the miter scale.
Release the miter lock plate.
NOTE: You can quickly locate 0°, 15 °, 22-1/2 °, 30 °, left
or right, and 45 ° left or right by releasing the miter lock
plate as you rotate the control arm. The miter lock
plate will seat itself in one of the positive stop notches,
located in miter table frame.
Tighten the miter lock handle securely.
Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle,
securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
Recheck miter angle setting. Make a test cut in scrap
Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one
edge securely against the fence. If the board is warped,
place the convex side against the fence. If the concave
edge of a board could collapse on the blade at the end
of the cut, jamming the blade. See Figures 33 and 34.
When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, sup-
port the opposite end of the stock with a roller stand
or with a work surface level with the saw table. See
Figure 31.
Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of
saw blade.
Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it
against the fence or use the optional work clamp or a
C-clamp to secure the workpiece when possible. See
Figure 29.
NOTE: When making a 45° left miter and a bevel angle
greater than 30 ° , you must use a C-clamp to secure the
workpiece or move clamp to the right side of the base.
To avoid serious personal injury, always
keep your hands outside the no hands zone; at least
3 in. from blade. Never perform any cutting opera-
tion freehand (without holding workpiece against the
fence). The blade could grab the workpiece if it slips
or twists.
Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cut-
ting operation just to make sure that no problems will
occur when the cut is made.
Grasp the saw handle firmly then squeeze the switch
trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
To avoid serious personal injury,
always tighten the miter lock handle securely
before making a cut. Failure to do so could result
in movement of the control arm or miter table while
making a cut.
Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the saw arm to
the left to the desired bevel angle.
Bevel angles can be set from 0° to 45 °.
For your convenience there is a double scale located
on the mounting bracket. See Figure 27. If one side be-
comes difficult to read as you move the saw arm to the
left, simply refer to the other side. Align the indicator
point for the side you choose with the desired angle.
Fig. 29

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