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COMPOUND
MITER CUT
See Figures 39 and 40.
A compound miter cut is a cut made using a miter
angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This type of
cut is used to make picture frames, cut molding, make
boxes with sloping sides, and for certain roof framing
cuts.
To make this type of cut the miter table must be
rotated to the correct angle and the saw arm must be
tilted to the correct bevel angle. Care should always
be taken when making compound miter setups due to
the interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are interde-
pendent with one another. Each time you adjust the
miter setting you change the effect of the bevel
setting. Also, each time you adjust the bevel setting
you change the effect of the miter setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut.
The first angle setting should be checked after setting
the second angle, since adjusting the second angle
affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have
been obtained, always make a test cut in scrap
material before making a finish cut in good material.
C-CLAMP
COMPOUNDMITERCUT
Fig. 39
TO MAKE A COMPOUND
CUT WITH YOUR
MITER
SAW:
•
Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its full height.
•
Lift the miter table clamp.
•
Rotate the miter table until the pointer aligns with
the desired angle on the miter scale.
•
Push the miter table clamp back down.
Note: You can quickly locate 0 °, 22-1/2 ° left or
right, and 45 ° left or right on the scale. The miter
table can be seated in one of the positive stop
notches, located in the miter table frame.
,_
WARNING:
To avoid serious personal injury,
always push the miter table clamp back down
before making a cut. Failure to do so could result in
movement of the miter table while making a cut.
•
Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the saw
arm to the left to the desired bevel angle.
•
Bevel angles can be set from 0 ° to 45 °.
•
Align the indicator point with the desired angle.
•
Once the saw arm has been set at the desired
angle, securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
Recheck miter angle setting. Make a test cut in
scrap material.
Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with
one edge securely against the fence. If the board
is warped, place the convex side against the
fence. If the concave edge of a board is placed
against the fence, the board could collapse on the
blade at the end of the cut, jamming the blade.
See Figures 43 and 44.
When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding,
support the opposite end of the stock with a roller
stand or with a work surface level with the saw
table.
Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the
edge of saw blade.
Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it
against the fence. Use the optional work clamp or
a C-clamp to secure the workpiece when pos-
sible. See Figure 39.
A
WARNING:
To avoid serious personal injury,
always keep your hands outside the no hands
zone; at least 3 in. from blade. Never perform
any cutting operation freehand (without holding
workpiece against the fence). The blade could
grab the workpiece if it slips or twists.
27
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