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Silver Pony Kit Instructions Rev2.1 Warranty: BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting, stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, INC guarantees that...
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That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
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8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position? 9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?) Also, please only post photos that are in focus. Copyrights: All material in this document is copyrighted 2020 by BYOC, Inc.
Populating the Circuit Board Step 1: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted in either direction.
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Step 2: Add the diodes. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe to the layout on the PCB. The 1N4001 diodes are highlighted in yellow and will have a silver stripe. The striped end should go in the square solder pad. Your Ge diodes are highlighted in red and may have a single stripe, two stripes, or a dot.
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Step 3: Add three 8 pin IC sockets. ONLY SOLDER THE SOCKET! NOT THE ACTUAL IC! This is a socket. The sockets get soldered to the PCB. The ICs get inserted into the sockets. The actual IC chip itself, never gets soldered.
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Step 5: Add the film and ceramic disk capacitors. These are non-polarized so they can go in either direction. The ceramic disc capacitors are highlighted in yellow. The capacitors highlighted in blue are only used for modification purposes.
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Step 6: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized, meaning there is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a longer lead and goes in the square solder pad. The negative side will have a shorter lead and a stripe running along the body of the cap, and goes in the round solder pad.
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Step 7: Add the battery snap. Be sure to place the red wire into the + eyelet, and the black wire into the - eyelet. You want to thread them through the strain relief holes first, as shown below.
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Step 9: Add wires to the IN, OUT, RING, -, +, (+), and the two Ground ê eyelets. Start by cutting four 2.5” pieces of wire and 4 pieces of 1.5” wire. Strip 1/4” off each end and tin the ends. Tinning means to apply some solder to the stripped ends of the wires.
Main PCB Assembly Step 1: Mount the AC adapter jack to the enclosure. Your kit may come with either an external thread or internal thread. Don’t get confused by this. They still function exactly the same. You just thread the external nut on the outside and the internal nut on the inside.
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Step 3: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots and LED all go into their respective holes.
WIRING Step 6: Connect the TIP (negative) terminal of the DC adapter jack to the eyelet on the PCB labeled “-“. Connect the SLEEVE of the DC adapter jack to the eyelet on the PCB labeled “+” farthest to the right. Connect the battery disconnect terminal of the DC adapter jack to the second eyelet on the PCB labeled “+”...
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Stereo (input) Jack Mono (output) Jack Step 1: Install the 1/4” jacks to the enclosure.
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Step 2: Prepare the footswitch. Orient the footswitch so that the flat sides of the solder lugs are like the diagram below. NOTE: There are no actual number markings on the footswitch. There are two correct ways you can orient the footswitch. They are both 180 degrees of each other.
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Step 3: Wire the footswitch Step 3a: Make a jumper between lugs 3 & 6 from clippings from the resistors. Simply use your needle nose pliers to make a U shape & insert into lugs 3 & 6, then solder.
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Step 3b: Cut a 1.5” piece of wire. Strip 1/8” of one end. Strip 1/2” off the other end. Tin both ends. This will be used to connect lug/eyelet 4. The longer stripped end will be used to jumper lug 4 to Step 3c: Cut two 1”...
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Step 4: Install the foot switch into the enclosure if it isn’t already. Insert the foot switch wires into their respective eyelets on the PCB. You can insert them into the top-side and solder on the top side as well. The solder pads should be large enough (if you are using a soldering iron that isn’t too big) to allow you to do this without burning the PVC coating on the wires if you are careful.
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Step 6: Connect the wires at the top end of the PCB to the IN and OUT jacks. The “out” eyelet will go to the tip of the OUT jack and the “in” eyelet will go to the tip of the IN jack. Connect the ground eyelet on the left to the sleeve of the IN jack and the ground eyelet on the right to the sleeve of the OUT jack.
Operating Overview LEVEL: This controls the amount of volume. TONE: Boosts or cuts the treble GAIN: Controls the amount of gain. Power supply: 9V battery or 2.1mm negative tip 9V ONLY!!!! This has a charge pump, so you don’t want to use more than 9V. Current Draw: 7.5mA Input Impedance: 1 Meg ohms Output Impedance: 100k ohms...
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For hi-res schematic visit http://www.byocelectronics.com/silverponyschematic.pdf Please visit http://byocelectronics.com/board for any technical support copyright 2020 BYOC, Inc.
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