BYOC Tweed Royal Instructions Manual
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BYOC Tweed Royal Instructions Manual

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Tube amplifiers contain high voltage that can cause injury and even death. Please use extreme caution and common sense when
building this kit. Do not attempt to do anything to your amp while it is plugged in other than take voltage readings as necessary or
actually playing an instrument through it as it was intended.
Don't just turn the power off!!! Always unplug the power cord from the socket before working on your amp!!! The mains supply can
still electrocute you AND the power filter capacitors can still retain a charge powerful enough to kill you. Always unplug the power
cord from the socket before working on your amp.
Build Your Own Clone
Tweed Royal
Kit Instructions
(revision 1.0.2)
WARNING!!! HIGH VOLTAGE!!!!
1

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Summary of Contents for BYOC Tweed Royal

  • Page 1 Build Your Own Clone Tweed Royal Kit Instructions (revision 1.0.2) WARNING!!! HIGH VOLTAGE!!!! Tube amplifiers contain high voltage that can cause injury and even death. Please use extreme caution and common sense when building this kit. Do not attempt to do anything to your amp while it is plugged in other than take voltage readings as necessary or actually playing an instrument through it as it was intended.
  • Page 2 DISCLAIMER Build at your own risk!!! BYOC, Inc. is not liable or responsible for any damages, injuries, or deaths that may incur from or while building this kit. It is your own responsibility to follow proper safety precautions. Never attempt to build, modify, repair, or perform any sort of maintenance on your amplifier while the power cord is plugged into an AC power source.
  • Page 3 That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.

  • Page 4: Table Of Contents

    TWEED ROYAL KIT INSTRUCTION INDEX Parts Checklist………………………………....……..page 5 - 8 Populating the Circuit Board (top side)...………....page 9 – 25 Populating the Circuit Board (under side)………………….page 26 - 49 Chassis Build Up………………………………………….…..page 50 - 93 Adding the Circuit Board......…......page 94 - 118 Wiring the S.E./standby/P.P.

  • Page 5: Parts Checklist

    Parts Checklist for Tweed Royal Kit Resistors: 1/2watt carbon composition: 1 – 820 ohm (gray/red/brown/gold) *this is an extra part for modification 5 - 1k5 (brown/green/red/gold) *there is one extra for modification 1 – 2k2 (red/red/red/gold) 1 - 22k (red/red/orange/gold)
  • Page 6 4 - .1uf axial leaded film 3 - 16uf/475v axial leaded aluminum electrolytic 3 - 25uf/25v axial leaded aluminum electrolytic Potentiometers: Be sure to snap off or bend the small tab on the side of each panel mounted pot. 1 - A1M w/SPST switch 1 –...
  • Page 7 2 - Circuit board standoffs w/matching screws and nuts(M3 size thread) 3 - 8 pin tube sockets w/retainer 2 - 9 pin tube socket w/shield 1 - 1/4” mono w/ nut, flat washer and lock washer 4 - 1/4” mono shorting jacks (switchcraft 12A) w/ nut, flat washer and lock washer 1 - Lamp (bayonet style #47 6.3v) 1 - Lamp holder 1 - Lamp jewel...
  • Page 8 4' - Brown 20AWG 1' - Red 20AWG 6” – Blue 20AWG 1' - Bare Bus Tubes (optional): 2 - 12AX7/ECC83 (JJ/Tesla) 2 - 6V6 (JJ/Tesla) 1 - 5Y3 (JJ/Tesla) Transformers: 1 – BYOC-TRPT 1 – BYOC-TROT1 1 – BYOC-TROT2...

  • Page 9: Populating The Circuit Board (Top Side)

    Populating the Circuit Board (top side) A note before you get started: Follow the order of these instructions. Some of the components need to be ”layered” in a certain order. It will make it much easier when you get to the underside of the circuit board.
  • Page 10 Step 2: Add the bare bus wire. Do not solder anything yet.
  • Page 11 Step 3: Add the 25uf capacitor. The capacitor is polarized. It is EXTREMELY important that you orient these correctly. The positive end with be labeled with a “+” symbol. The positive end will also have an indentation around it. Again, do not solder anything yet. Add the 470Ω resistor to the same terminal lugs as the 25uf cap.
  • Page 12 Step 4: Next, place the 2watt 4.7k and 22k resistors as shown. Install the three 16uf capacitors. Again, the capacitors are polarized. It is EXTREMELY important that you orient these correctly. The positive end with be labeled with a “+” symbol. The positive end will also have an indentation around it and should be installed with the resistors.
  • Page 13 Step 5: Cut a 2.5” piece of the black 22 gauge wire, strip an 1/8” of cover off each end. Place one end into terminal end with the 16uf cap, as shown in photo above. Next, cut a 4” piece of both brown wire and white wire. Strip a 1/8” of cover off each end of both wires.
  • Page 14 Step 6: Install the 1.5k, 56k, and 1M resistors as shown.
  • Page 15 Step 7: Install the first 0.1uf capacitor and the two 220k resistors as shown above.
  • Page 16 Step 8: Cut a 2.5” piece of the yellow 20 gauge wire, strip an 1/8” of cover off both end, and insert one end into the terminal post with the 1M resistor. Then, cut a 3” piece of the white 22 gauge wire, strip 1/8” off each end, and insert one end into the terminal post with 1.5k resistor &...
  • Page 17 Step 9: Install the second 0.1uf capacitor, the 0.022uf capacitor, and the 56k, and 100k resistors as shown.
  • Page 18 Step 10: Cut a 2.5” piece of the yellow wire, strip an 1/8” of cover off both end, and insert one end into the terminal post with the 100k resistor & 0.022 cap. Then, cut a 3” piece of the brown wire, strip 1/8” off each end, and insert one end into the terminal post with 56k resistor &...
  • Page 19 Step 11: Add the 1.5k resistor and the third 0.1uf capacitor as shown...
  • Page 20 Step 12: Next, add two of the 68k and two 100k resistors, as shown.
  • Page 21 Step 13: Install the fourth 0.1uf capacitor as shown.
  • Page 22 tep 14: Cut three 3.5” pieces of brown wire, two 3.5” pieces of white wire, two pieces of 3.5” yellow wire, and a 3.5” piece of black wire. Strip 1/8” of cover off the ends of all wire. From left to right, along the bottom row of turret lugs in the diagram above, insert one end of brown wire into the 1.5k lug, one end of yellow wire into the .1uF/100k lug, and one end of white wire into the other 00k/.1uF lug.
  • Page 23 Step 13: Install two 68k resistors as shown. Then, install the 2k2 resistor and the 25uf capacitor into the same terminal post, as shown. *The 2.2k resistor can be replaced with a 1.5k for more gain or an 820 ohm for even more gain. A 1.5k resistor would be more the “original” specs, but the 2.2k will give you a slightly greater range of clean tones.
  • Page 24 Step 16: Cut two 2.5” pieces of white wire. Strip a 1/8” of cover off ends. Insert the one wire into the terminal lug with the 68k resistor, as shown above. Insert the second wire into the terminal lug with the 1.5k resistor & 25uf cap. Next, cut a 2.5” piece of yellow wire, stripping a 1/8”...
  • Page 25 By now, your board should look like photo above.
  • Page 26 Circuit Board (underside) Step 1: Cut a 1 &7/8” piece of black wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off each end. Install on the underside of the board as shown above by the black dashed line, from the terminal lug with your base wire & 16uf cap to the post where both 220k resistors are installed.
  • Page 28 Step2: Cut a 6.5” piece of the brown wire and strip 1/8” off each end. Install one end on the underside of the board where the 0.1uf & one end of the 220k resistor is installed, and route as shown above by the brown dashed line and thread though hole, so the end is sticking about 2.5”...
  • Page 30 Step 3: Cut a 4.5” piece of red wire. Strip a1/8” of cover off both ends. Install one end on the underside of the board at the terminal where the 16uf & 2watt/4.7k resistor are installed, and route through hole in board so the wire is sticking out the topside, as you did with the brown wire in the last step.
  • Page 32 Step 4: Cut a 2.5” piece of red wire and strip an 1/8” of cover off each end. Insert on the underside of the board and route as shown above by the red dashed line. Solder where highlighted by the green arrows; do not solder yet where highlighted by the red arrows.
  • Page 34 Step 5: Cut a 6.25” piece of the white wire (shown above in blue) and strip a 1/8” of cover off each end. Insert into the underside of the board, threading it through the holes in the board, so the ends come up through the topside, as shown above. This wire does not get soldered at all, simply threaded through the holes.
  • Page 36 Step 6: Cut a 2.25” piece of the red wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off each end. Insert into the underside of the board and route as shown above by the red dashed line. Solder as highlighted by the green arrows. See photo below.
  • Page 38 Step 7: Cut a 3.25” piece of yellow wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off each end. Insert into underside of board and route as shown above by yellow dashed line. Solder where highlighted by the green arrows top and bottom of board. See photo below.
  • Page 40 Step 8: Cut a 8.75” piece of yellow wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off both ends. Install on underside of board with one end at the 0.1uf cap, and route through hole in board, so the wire is sticking out of the topside of the board, as shown above by the yellow dashed line.
  • Page 42 Step 9: Cut a 3” piece of brown wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off both ends. Insert into the underside of board with one end inserted at the point with 68k resistors and the other end routed through the hole to the topside of the board, as shown above by the brown dashed line.
  • Page 44 Step10: Cut a 2.75” piece of yellow wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off each end. Install on underside of board, inserting one end of the wire into the point with the other two 68k resistors, and route through hole to topside of board, as shown above by the yellow dashed line.
  • Page 46 Step 11: Cut a 7” piece of brown wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off both ends. Insert one end into the underside of the board where the 1.5k resistor is installed topside, as shown above. Thread the wire through the hole to the topside of the board. See photo below;...
  • Page 48 Step 12: Cut a 5.5” piece of white wire and strip a 1/8” of cover off both ends. Insert into underside of the board where the 470Ω resistor & 25uf cap are installed on top, as shown above. Thread wire through hole to topside of board. See photo below; solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 49 Now that you’ve installed all the under board wiring, flip the circuit board right side up and solder all the turret lugs that have not been soldered yet.

  • Page 50: Chassis Build Up

    Chassis Build Up Step 1: Install the three rubber grommets into the holes in the chassis.
  • Page 51 Step 2: Install the BYOC-TRPT Power transformer using four #8 nuts, two #8 internal lock washers, and the two solder terminal lock washers. Put the washers on first. Orient the solder terminal washers as shown by the blue arrows.
  • Page 52 Step 3: Install the BYOC-TROT1 output transformer. Use the #6 screws, lock washers, and nuts. Make sure to install the screws with the threads sticking out the top of the chassis. Installing them opposite of this way may cause the screw ends to contact the board and causing damage to your amp.
  • Page 53 Step 4: Install the BYOC-TROT2 output transformer. Again, use the #6 hardware, and make sure to install the screws with the threads sticking out the top of the chassis. Installing them opposite of this way may cause the screw ends to contact the board and causing damage to your amp.
  • Page 54 Step 5: Install the power cord strain relief receptacle. Use the #4 screws, split lock washers, and nuts.
  • Page 55 Step 6: Install the fuse holder.
  • Page 56 Step 7: Install the Power On/Off switch.
  • Page 57 Step 8: Install the power indicator lamp holder. Note; it is not necessary to install the lens jewel cover at this time.
  • Page 58 Step 9: Install the three 8 pin sockets. Ensure that the notch in the center hole of the socket is positioned pointing toward the open side of the chassis, as shown by the red arrow. This is important for position of the socket’s pins for wiring later. The yellow arrow shows pin 1.
  • Page 59 Then, install the octal tube retainer and mount to chassis with #6 screws, lock washers, and nuts. The final install for the three sockets will look like photo below.
  • Page 60 Step 10: Install the Rotary 4POL/3POS switch as shown above. Note: The rotary switch shown in this picture has SOLDER terminals. Your kit may have PC terminals.
  • Page 61 Step 11: Install the B250k w/SPDT switch (CUT), and the A1M SPST switch (TONE). Use a lock washer on the inside of the chassis and a flat washer on the outside.
  • Page 62 Step12: Install the two A1M volume potentiometers, with the lock washers inside in chassis, and the flat washer and nut on the face side.
  • Page 63 Step 13: Install the four ¼” stereo shorting jacks, with lock washers inside the chassis, and flat washer and nuts on face side. Position the jacks as shown above, so that the middle solder terminals of the jacks on the bottom are pointing to 12 o’clock and the middle solder terminals of the jacks on the top are pointing to 3 o’clock.
  • Page 64 Step 14: Install the two 9 pin preamp sockets with #4 screws, lock washers, and nuts. Ensure you position them as shown above. This will be important for wiring the socket later. Pin 1 is highlighted by the yellow.
  • Page 65 Step 15: Install the Speaker jack as shown below. Make sure this is the non-shorting mono jack. Place the lock washer on the inside of the chassis, the flat washer and nut on the outside. Be sure to turn the jack so that the sleeve solder terminal is pointing up and out of the chassis when you mount the jack to the chassis.
  • Page 66 Wiring Step 1: Connect both of the green output transformer wires to the tip of the speaker out jack, but do not solder yet. Another wire needs to connect to this terminal as well.
  • Page 68 Step 2: Take a piece of the excess green wire you cut off the transformers in the last step. Connect one end to the TIP of the OUT JACK along with the other green wires from the output transformers. You can now solder all 3 wires at the TIP of the OUT JACK.
  • Page 70 Step 3: Connect the high voltage center tap wire (red/yellow striped) and heater center tap wire (green/yellow striped) to the solder terminal lock washer closest to the fuse holder, but do not solder yet. There is another wire that needs to be added to it still.
  • Page 72 Step 4: Use a piece of green wire that you cut off of the output transformers to connect the EARTH terminal of the power cord socket to the same solder terminal lock washer. Solder at the green arrows. Keep in mind that the lock washer is connected to the chassis.
  • Page 74 Step 5: Install a 1.5k resistor into each of the 6V6 sockets. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT ADD A RESISTOR TO THE 5Y3 RECTIFIER SOCKET!!!!! Install the resistor so that it jumpers from terminal 5 to terminal 6. Solder the connection at terminal 5.
  • Page 75 Step 6: Connect the blue wires from both output transformers to terminal 3 of the 6V6 socket shown in the diagram above. TIP: Take a look at the entire wiring diagram to get a better idea of which socket is being used in this step.
  • Page 77 Step 7: Connect the black wires from both output transformers to the SLEEVE terminal of the OUTPUT JACK.
  • Page 78 Step 8: Cut a 3.5” piece of Blue (previously orange) wire and strip ¼” of cover of both ends. Take the orange wire from TRPT1 output transformer and the piece of wire you just cut. Connect them together with one of the wire nuts, as shown above. Do not solder this wire into the Rotary switch yet.
  • Page 79 Step 9: Connect the solid red wires from the power transformer to terminals 4 and 6 of the rectifier tube socket. It does not matter which red wire goes to which terminal.
  • Page 80 Step 10: Connect the solid yellow wires from the power transformer to terminals 2 and 8 of the rectifier socket. It does not matter which yellow wire goes to which terminal. Solder at terminal 2, but do not solder terminal 8 yet. Another wire will be connected at terminal 8 in a later step.
  • Page 81 Step 11: Install the 0.0047uf capacitor into lug 1 of both the TONE pot and Channel 2 VOLUME potentiometer. Then, take a 3.5” piece of bare bus wire and create a jumper from lug 1 of both VOLUME 1 & 2 potentiometers, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrows;...
  • Page 83 Step 12: Connect one terminal of the SPST switch attached to the TONE pot to lug 3 of VOLUME pot #2. Connect lug 3 of VOLUME pot #2 to lug 3 of VOLUME pot #1. Solder the switch terminal and lug 3 of VOLUME pot #2, but do not solder lug 3 of VOLUME pot #1 yet.
  • Page 85 Step 13: Install the 470 pF capacitor into lug 3 of the TONE pot and lug 2 of VOLUME pot #2, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 87 Step 14: Connect the solid green heater wires from the power transformer to the solder terminals of the lamp. Each solder terminal on the lamp will have two holes. Be sure not to get solder in the unused holes. You will need to connect wires in these holes later in the build.
  • Page 89 EXTREMELY IMPORTANT STEP!!!! If this step is not 100% clear to you, please stop what you are doing, and contact BYOC to have this step explained to you in greater detail. You will need to select your AC mains power supply voltage. Are you going to be using 120VAC (North America and most of Asia) or are you going to be using 240VAC (EU, UK, Australia)? The wires in the diagram above are shown in pink but represents the brown and white power transformer wires.
  • Page 90 Step 16: Use the excess brown wire from Step 15 (or white if building for 240V). Connect the “N” terminal of the power cord socket to one solder terminal of the power toggle switch. Connect the other solder terminal of power toggle switch to the other open terminal of the fuse holder.
  • Page 92 Step 17: Use a piece of brown wire and jumper terminals 4 of both 6V6 sockets. Solder the terminal of the socket closer to the power transformer. Do not solder the terminal of the other socket yet. There will be another wire added to this terminal in a later step.
  • Page 93 Step 18: Connect the brown wire from BYOT-TROT1 to terminal 3 of the 6V6 socket closest to the power transformer. Take a look at the entire wiring diagram to make sure you are connecting to the correct socket.

  • Page 94: Adding The Circuit Board

    Adding the Circuit Board...
  • Page 95 Carefully turn the chassis onto the end with the power transformer resting on your workbench. Install the circuit board so that the threaded screw portion of the standoffs passes threw there respective slots in the chassis. Use the M3 nuts on the outside of the chassis to secure the circuit board.
  • Page 96 Step 20: Take the yellow (shown in purple) wire coming out of the board and install into output socket pin 6 where the 1.5k resistor is installed, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 97 Step 21: Take the brown from the board, as shown above, and insert end into output socket 1 pin 6, where the 1.5k resistor is installed. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 98 Step 22: Connect the white wire (shown in purple) from board to terminal 8 of V3 socket, closest to the output jack, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green wire.
  • Page 99 Step 23: Connect the brown wire from the board to terminal 4 of the 8 pin socket closest to the output jack, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 100 Step 24: Install the yellow wire from the board to terminal 7 of the 9 pin socket closest to the out jack, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 101 Step 25: Install the white wire (shown in purple) from board to terminal 8 of the 9 pin socket closest to the out jack, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 102 Step 26: Install the brown wire from board to terminal 6 of the 9 pin socket closest to the out jack, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 103 Step 27: Install the yellow wire from board to terminal 1 of the 9 pin socket closest to the out jack, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 104 Step 28: Install the white wire (shown in purple) from the board to terminal 2 of the 9 pin socket, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 105 Step 29: Install the brown wire from the board to terminal 3 of the 9 pin socket, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 106 Step 30: Install the yellow wire from the board to terminal 6 of the 9 pin socket, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 107 Step 31: Install the white wire (shown in purple) from the board to terminal 8 AND terminal 3, as shown above. You can use two separate pieces of wire to do this, but it’s easier if you strip about 1” off the end of the wire and thread it through both solder terminals.
  • Page 108 Step 32: Install the brown wire from the board to terminal 7 of the 9 pin socket, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 109 Step 33: Install the white wire (shown in purple) from the board to terminal 1 of the 9 pin socket, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 110 Step 34: Install the yellow wire from the board to terminal 2 of the 9 pin socket, as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 111 Step 35: Wire Channel 1 “Normal” input jacks as shown above. The white wire is show as purple in the diagram above. First thread one end of the 1M resistor through both the shorting terminal and sleeve terminal of the first jack on the top. Then thread the other end of the 1M resistor through both the tip and the shorting terminal of the second jack.
  • Page 112 Step 36: Wire Channel 2 “Bright” input jacks. You will do this exactly the same way you just wired the “Normal” input jacks, but this time you connect the black wire to the sleeve of the second jack, and also make a ground connection with a black wire to lug 1 of VOLUME pot #1.
  • Page 113 Step 37: Connect the brown and white (shown in purple) wires from the board to Volume 1 as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 114 Step 38: Connect the brown wire from the board to Volume 2 as shown above. Solder where highlighted by green arrow.
  • Page 115 Step39: Connect lug 2 of the TONE pot to lug A of the attached SPST switch. You use a small piece of wire for this, or you can use bare bus wire. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 116 Step 40: Connect the brown wire from the board to lug C of the SPDT switch attached to the CUT pot. Solder where highlighted by the green arrow.
  • Page 117 Step 41: Use the 22k resistor to jumper between lug 2 of the CUT pot and lug A of the attached SPDT switch. Connect the 25uF capacitor between lug B of the attached SPDT switch and the Circuit Board. You can wrap the capacitor lead around one of the tiers of the turret lug.
  • Page 118 Step 42: Connect the black wire from the circuit board to the solder terminal lock washer. Solder where highlighted by green arrow. Another wire will be added to this terminal, so try not to get solder in the other hole.

  • Page 119: Wiring The S.e./Standby/P

    S.E./STANDBY/P.P. Switch There are no actual markings on the rotary switch. The letters and numbers shown in the diagram above are just arbitrary designators that we have assigned to make it easier to keep track of.
  • Page 120 Step 1: Connect lug C to the other hole in the solder terminal lock washer. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 121 NOTE the orange cloth wire is now blue cloth wire...
  • Page 122 Step 2: Connect the RED wire from the BYOC-TROT1 output transformer to lug 10. Also make a jumper from lug 10 to lug 1. Solder at the green arrows.
  • Page 123 NOTE: The orange cloth wire is now blue cloth wire...
  • Page 124 Step 3: Connect the red wire from the circuit board to lug D. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 125 Step 4: Connect lug B to terminal 8 of the middle 8 pin socket. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 126 NOTE: The orange cloth wire is now blue cloth wire...
  • Page 127 Step 5: Install the 470 ohm/5 watt resistor so that it jumpers between lug 4 and lug 7. Connect the white wire (shown in purple) to lug 4 as well. Solder where highlighted by the green arrows.
  • Page 128 NOTE: The orange cloth wire is now blue cloth wire...
  • Page 129 Step 6: Connect lug A to pin 8 of the RECTIFIER socket. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 130 NOTE: The orange cloth wire is now blue cloth wire...
  • Page 131 Step 7: Take the orange wire from the TROT2 output transformer (Wiring-Step 8) and connect it to lug 12. Also make a jumper from lug 12 to lug 3. Solder where highlighted by green arrows.
  • Page 132 NOTE: The orange cloth wire is now blue cloth wire...

  • Page 133: Heater Wiring

    Heater Wiring...
  • Page 134 Step 1: Using two twisted strands of wire, connect terminals 4/5 and 9 of one 9 pin socket to the next. It does not matter that you connect terminal 9 of one socket to the next. You can connect terminal 9 of one socket to 4/5 of the next. Just don’t connect terminal 9 of one socket to terminal 4/5 of the same socket.
  • Page 136 Step 2: Using another two twisted strands, connect 4/5 and 9 of the previous 9 pin socket to terminals 2 and 7 of the next 8 pin socket. Just as before, it does not matter which strand goes to 2 and which strand goes to 7. Solder the terminals on the 9 pin socket, but do not solder the 8 pin socket yet.
  • Page 138 Step 3: Use another 2 twisted strands to connect terminals 2 and 7 to 2 and 7 of the next socket. As before, solder the first socket, but do not solder the last.
  • Page 140 Step 4: Using another 2 twisted strands, connect terminals 2 and 7 of the last 6V6 8 pin socket (the rectifier socket does not get green heater wires) to the lamp. There should still be open solder terminal holes.

  • Page 142: Finishing Up

    Finishing Up. 1. Install the knobs. The white knob goes on the S.E./Standby/P.P. rotary switch. 2. Install the fuse in the holder. There’s actually a trick to this. Put the fuse into the cap first. Then insert the fuse and cap into the fuse holder.
  • Page 143 3. Install the lamp into lamp holder and install jewel lamp cover.
  • Page 144 4. Install the power cord into the break-away socket.

  • Page 145: Turning Your Amp On For The First Time

    Turning your amp on for the first time Step 1: Make sure your AC power cord is NOT plugged in. Do NOT install any of the tubes yet. Do not plug a speaker into the speaker jack. Do not plug any instruments into the input jacks. Step 2: Do not test your amp on a metal table or any surface that can conduct electricity.
  • Page 146 for a few moments to make sure there's no sparks, smoke, heat, or burning smells. If you notice anything other than just the indicator light coming on, unplug the power cord immediately. Step 10: Unplug the AC power cord. Ok..so now you know your power transformer is working properly. Step 11: With the AC power cord unplugged, the on/off switch in the on position, and no speaker or instruments plugged in, install the 5Y3 rectifier tube.
  • Page 147 light come on immediately. Once again, if you notice any sparks, smoke, heat, or burning smells, unplug the power cord immediately and figure out what you did wrong. Take a moment to observe the rectifier tube. You should see that it is beginning to warm up and glow. If it's doing this and the fuse hasn't blown, you can assume that it is working properly.
  • Page 148 Step 14: Install the 12AX7/EC833S preamp tubes, but do not install the 6V6 tube yet. Step 15: Plug the AC power cord back in, just as you did in step 9. You should see the 12AX7 start to glow. If you see this, and there's no smoke and a fuse hasn't blown, you can assume that everything is working properly.
  • Page 149 impedance of the speaker is 8 ohms. This is very important too. Step 18: Install the 6V6 power tube into its socket and turn the volume knobs counter clockwise to their minimum volume level. Step 19: Plug the AC power cord back into the power socket and repeat all the instructions in step 9 again. You should see the tube start to glow and it should begin to heat up.

  • Page 150: Operating Overview

    Operating Overview The most important thing about this amp: Always allow it to be in standby for 3 seconds before switching from S.E. mode to P.P. mode and vice versa. Inputs: Your amp has two channels. The typical “Fender” inputs: 2 x normal inputs; 2 x bright inputs. Try jumpering the two channels with a patch cable for a “linked”...
  • Page 151 Cut: This is kind of like a presence knob. It controls the amount of negative feedback. Turning it clockwise increases the amount of negative feedback. The knob may seem like it’s wired backwards, because turning it up will reduce the amount of gain. The 5F1 Champ had it’s negative feedback loop hardwired. For a more “champ” sound, turn the cut knob full turn clockwise.
  • Page 152 Power Cord Socket: Plug your power cord in to this guy. Fuse Holder: This is where the fuse goes. Always use a 3AG 2 slo-blo amp fuse. Speaker Jack: Insert speaker cable here. ALWAYS USE AN 8 OHM SPEAKER OR CABINET RATED FOR AT LEAST 15 WATTS...

  • Page 153: Diagrams And Schematic

    Diagrams and Schematic Circuit board (top side)
  • Page 154 Circuit Board Wiring (underside)
  • Page 155 Wiring Diagram For High Res PDF versions, go to: http://byocelectronics.com/tr-wiring.pdf...
  • Page 156 Heater Wiring res pdf go to http://www.buildyourownclone.com/tr heater...
  • Page 157 Schematic For high resolution PDF image go to: http://byocelectronics.com/tweedroyalschematic.pdf...
  • Page 158 For technical support, visit http://www.byocelectronics.com/board Written by: J. O’Mealey & K. Vonderhulls Artwork by: J. O’Mealey & K. Vonderhulls Edited by: R. Matthews & K. Vonderhulls Copyright BYOC, Inc. 2012...

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