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BYOC Soaring Skillet Instructions Manual

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Build Your Own Clone
Soaring Skillet
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, Inc.
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, Inc. does not warranty
the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
sales@buildyourownclone.com This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full

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Summary of Contents for BYOC Soaring Skillet

  • Page 1 BYOC, Inc. does not warranty the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the individual parts once they have been used.
  • Page 2 That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    SOARING SKILLET KIT INSTRUCTION INDEX Parts Checklist……………………....……..page 5 - 7 Populating the Circuit Board…………....page 8 – 24 Main PCB Assembly…….........page 25 - 30 Wiring................page 31 - 37 Installing the IC's and Finishing Up.......page 38 Operation Overview..........page 39 Schematic..............page 40...
  • Page 4 Completed Build...

  • Page 5: Parts Checklist

    BYOC Soaring Skillet Parts Checklist Resistors: 1 – 10 (brown/black/black/gold/brown) Ω 1 – 1k (brown/black/black/brown/brown) 1 – 2k2 (red/red/black/brown/brown) 4 - 4k7 (yellow/purple/black/brown/brown) 2 – 6k2 (blue/red/black/brown/brown) 1 – 6k8 (blue/gray/black/brown/brown) 21 – 10k (brown/black/black/red/brown) 1 – 18k (brown/grey/black/red/brown) 1 – 24k (red/yellow/black/red/brown) 5 –...
  • Page 6 Diodes: 1 - 1N4001 (larger black plastic with silver stripe) 1 – 5.1v Zener (small orange glass with black stripe) IC's: 5 – TL022 5 - 8 pin sockets 2 – Dual element Opto Couplers Transistors: 7 – 2N3904 2 – 2N5952 Potentiometers: Be sure to snap off the small tab on the side of each panel mounted pot.
  • Page 7 Hardware: 1 - drilled enclosure w/ 4 screws 1 - BYOC Soaring Skillet PCB 2 - 3PDT footswitch 1 – 4 pole, 3 position rotary switch 4 - knobs 1 - DC adaptor jack 3 - ¼”mono jack 3 – lock washers...
  • Page 8 Note about the resistors: Most of the resistors in your kit will be 1/8 watt (small resistors), but your kit may contain some ¼ watt resistors (regular sized resistors). The resistor spaces on your Soaring Skillet PCB will be for 1/8 watt resistors. If your kit contains any ¼ watt resistors, you should bend the lead on one side (either side.

  • Page 9: Populating The Circuit Board

    Populating the Circuit Board STEP 1: Add the diodes. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe to the layout on the PCB. The stripped end should go in the square solder pad. NOTE: Make sure not to confuse the print on the PCB (circled in yellow) as a diode.
  • Page 10 STEP 2a: Add four 100k (highlighted in red), one 470k (highlighted in brown) resistor and one 47n capacitor (highlighted in yellow) to the backside of the PCB. This is to allow the opto couplers to be mounted flat to the front side.
  • Page 12 STEP 2b: Cut a 2.25” piece of wire & strip 1/8” off the tips and tin the ends. Tinning means to apply some solder to the stripped ends of the wires. This keeps the strands from fraying and primes the wire for soldering.
  • Page 13 Cut a 3” piece & a 2.5” piece of wire. Strip an 1/8” off each end of both wires & tin them. On the topside of the PCB, find the hole labeled ‘SW8’ (highlighted in red). Take the 3” piece of wire & insert one end into the hole on the topside.
  • Page 14 STEP 3: Add the resistors. Resistors are not polarized, so it does not matter which end goes in which solder pad. Install a jumper (highlighted in orange) using left over clipping. NOTE: Some of the kits have the 1/4 watt resistors. Should your kit contain these, you will need to stand them on end when installing on the PCB.
  • Page 15 Step 4: Add the 8 pin IC socket. ONLY SOLDER THE SOCKET! NOT THE ACTUAL IC! This is a socket. The sockets get soldered to the PCB. The ICs get inserted into the sockets. The actual IC chip itself, never gets soldered.
  • Page 16 Step 5: Add the film capacitors. Film caps are not polarized and can be inserted into the PCB in either direction. If you have a Rev1.0 PCB, be sure to use a 220n in the 22n space highlighted in yellow.
  • Page 17 STEP 6: Add the transistors. Insert these components into the PCB so that the flat side of the component matches up with the flat side of the PCB layout. Make sure to not mix up the 2N5952 and 2N3904. These are two very different types of transistors.
  • Page 18 STEP 7: NOTE!!!! If you have a Rev1.0 PCB, use 100k trimpots for the pan left and pan right bias highlighted in orange. The PCB is labeled 1M. This is incorrect. Add the internal trimpots. Many people get confused by these because the trimpot itself only has 3 legs, but the PCB has 5 holes.
  • Page 19 When you have completed your build, do not forget to adjust the trimpots. The pedal will not work until you do. You DO NOT need to use a multimeter or oscilloscope to set any of the trimmers. The best tool for setting the trimmers is your ear.
  • Page 20 STEP 8: Add the optocouplers. Insert the optocouplers into the PCB so that the side with the gray dot is facing up. Orient the optocoupler so that the gray dot is pointing towards the positive (+) eyelet. The lead that goes in the positive (+) eyelet highlighted in red, should be slightly longer.
  • Page 21 optocouplers are soldered in place, you will not have easy access to desolder the components on the backside of the PCB. Ensure everything is correct before soldering the couplers in place. STEP 9: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These are polarized. The positive end will have a longer lead and should go in the square solder pad.
  • Page 22 Step 10: Add the IN, the two OUT, and three GROUND wires. Start by cutting six 1.25” pieces of wire. Strip 1/4” off each end and tin the ends. Load the wires in from the top and solder on the bottom of the PCB.
  • Page 23 By this point, your PCB should look like this: Top (front) side...
  • Page 24 Back (solder) side STEP 11: TAKE A BREAK!! Then come back and check your work. Are you absolutely certain you have all the resistors and capacitors in their correct spots? Did you remember to make all the jumpers? How do your solder joints look? It’s better to take 15 minutes now to double check your work than spend several hours later trouble shooting.

  • Page 25: Main Pcb Assembly

    Main PCB Assembly Step 1: Mount the DC adapter jack to the enclosure. NOTE: Since there is no battery snap, you will not be connecting wire to the center tab on the adapter.
  • Page 26 Step 2: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the C10k (FEEDBACK), C500k (FAZ RATE), C1M (PAN RATE) potentiometers, the 3 position rotary switch, and the LEDs into the bottom side of the PCB. DO NOT SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!! The LEDs will have one lead that is longer than the other.
  • Page 27 Step 3: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots and LED all go into their respective holes.
  • Page 30 Step 6: Connect the TIP (negative) terminal of the DC adapter jack to the “-“ eyelet on the PCB with 3/4 inches of hook up wire. Connect the SLEEVE of the DC adapter jack to the “+” eyelet on the far right side of the PCB with 3/4 inches of hook up wire.

  • Page 31: Wiring

    Wiring Mono Jack Input & both Outputs Step 1: Install the 1/4” jacks to the enclosure.
  • Page 32 Step 2: Install the footswitch. Orient the footswitch so that the flat sides of the solder lugs are like the diagram below. NOTE: There are no actual number markings on the footswitch. There are two correct ways you can orient the footswitch. They are both 180 degrees of each other. Either way is fine.
  • Page 33 Step 3: Wiring the foot switches. NOTE: If you have built another one of our kits, the wiring of these switches is different. This is not your typical “true bypass footswitch” wiring. Follow the instructions carefully. PAN FOOTSWITCH Cut two pieces of 1.25” wire. Strip 1/8” of both ends. These will be used •...
  • Page 34 PHASE (FAZ) FOOTSWITCH Cut two pieces of 1.25” wire. Strip 1/8” of both ends. These will be used • to connect lugs/eyelets 5 & 7. Cut two 1” pieces of wire. Strip 1/8” of both ends. These will be used to •...
  • Page 35 PAN Footswitch FAZ Footswitch...
  • Page 36 Step 5: Connect the pre stripped and tinned wires from the PCB to the 1/4” jacks according to the wiring diagram above. Step 6: Connect the pre stripped and tinned wires from the footswitches to...
  • Page 37 the PCB according to the wiring diagram above. Step 7: Connect the SW4 and SW8 wires to the Phase footswitch according to the wiring diagram above. Step 8: Rotate the INPUT JACK so that the “IN” and “Ground” wires are not crossed.

  • Page 38: Installing The Ic's And Finishing Up

    Installing the IC's and Finishing Up Don't forget to adjust the trimpots, put the cover on the enclosure, and apply the bumpers to the cover if you like to use them.

  • Page 39: Operation Overview

    Operating Overview PHASE (FAZ) RATE: Controls the rate of phaser signal PAN RATE: Controls the rate of panning FEEDBACK: Controls how much phase shifted signal is looped back into phase stages OUTPUT SELECTOR: Controls whether the phase signal is sent to just the LEFT OUTPUT, RIGHT OUTPUT, or BOTH.
  • Page 43 Click here for hi res schematic or go to http://www.buildyourownclone.com/soaringskilletscheme2.pdf Click here for hi res schematic or go to http://www.buildyourownclone.com/soaringskilletscheme3.pdf Please visit http://buildyourownclone.com/board for any technical support Copyright 2012 BYOC, Inc.