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Related Manuals for Morso 3110
Summary of Contents for Morso 3110
- Page 1 Installation and Operating Instructions Morsø 3110 and 3140 MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS E-Mail: stoves@morsoe.com · Website: www.morsoe.com Distributed by: Wonderfire · Wood Lane · Erdington Birmingham B24 9QP · England · www.morsostoves.co.uk...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
We congratulate you on your choice of a Morsø stove. Morsø has been producing some of the world’s best stoves since 1853. If you follow this installation- and operating instruction carefully, we can guarantee you many years of warmth and pleasure. Optional Accessories A wide range of accessories (such as handling gloves, fireside tools, glass cleaner and heatproof paint) are available for use with your morsø... -
Page 3: Installation Of Your Morsø Stove
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove 1.1 Installation of your stove The combustion chamber is removed from the wooden pallet and carefully placed centrally on the base plate. We recommend two persons to do this job in order to avoid scratches on the stove. -
Page 4: Flue Connection
The stove MUST NOT be connected to a flueway that is shared with any other appliance. (Several flueways may run up a single chimney stack; use one flueway per appliance). The internal dimensions of the flueway must not be less than 150mm diameter (or equivalent cross section), and for preference, should not be significantly larger than this. -
Page 5: Connection To Existing Chimney
1.7 Connection to existing chimney Unlined brick or stone chimneys are likely to perform badly and collect dirt easily. Your stove is an extremely efficient appliance and needs an efficient flue system to allow it to work properly. Ask your supplier about various lining options and their insulation quality. Clay (terracotta) liners are often too “chilly”... -
Page 6: Loading Procedure
2.0 Loading Procedure Your stove has two air supplies for combusiton. The primary air supply controlled by the spinner on the door allows combustion air to pass through the riddling grate. The riddling grate itself is controlled by the handle below the ash lip. The secondary air supply is controlled by the air slide above the door and is open and closed by using the tool supplied. -
Page 7: Heating With Wood
2.1 Heating with wood Heating with wood can be remarkably economical compared with other fuels. Buying your wood in quantity then splitting and stacking it yourself is generally the most inexpensive way to run your stove. Persuading a saw mill or logging company to let you take away their scrap wood for nothing is the ultimate cost-saving exercise, but will be somewhat effort-intensive! Buy wood by the cord (an 8x4x4 foot volume) if possible. -
Page 8: Solid Fuels (& Others)
2.3 Solid fuels (and others) Wood briquettes can be a good fuel. They have a low moisture content and come pre- packed. They are easy to light and last a reasonable length of time in the firebox. Your stove dealer should be able to supply them, or refer you to someone that can. House Coal and smokeless fuels are good for an extended burn. -
Page 9: Draught Conditions
2.4 Draft Conditions 1. If smoke or fumes come out of your stove when lighting up and reloading, or if the fire simply will not respond, a poor draft is almost certainly to blame. (In a very few cases, there may be insufficient fresh air getting into the room - see installation advice above). 2. -
Page 10: Maintenance
3.0 Maintenance 3.1 Exterior Maintenance The stove surface is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best kept clean by vacuuming with a soft brush attachment or by wiping with a lint-free cloth. Over a period of time, the painted surface may become slightly grey. A can of Morsø touch-up spray paint should be available from your stove supplier. -
Page 11: Cleaning The Stove
The grate may be replaced by lifting it by its left hand edge and twisting it backwards. Dislocate the riddling arm from the grate by feel from beneath the floor of the firebox. If you find this difficult for any reason, raising the rectangular grate surround casting may help. Should the baffle be distorted by an overfire, the stove will still function, although its efficiency may be compromised. - Page 12 Empty the ashpan on a daily basis. Ash allowed to build up towards the underside of the grate will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the grate. Embers may stay alive in the ash for a long time after the fire burns out. Always empty the ash into a non-combustible container and make sure all embers are dead before further disposal.
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