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C L U T C H SPRING ADJUSTMENT
In the event of clutch slip, first ascertain that the operating mechanism is correctly
adjusted (see clutch adjustment).
After dismantling the clutch, when refitting the clutch spring adjusting nuts, they should
be screwed on until the spring stud just protrudes through the bottom of the recess in
the adjuster nut.
FRONT C H A I N ADJUSTMENT
Remove inspection cap from front chaincase, remove the two securing screws on t h e
rear engine cowling, lift the cowling to expose the gear box adjuster bolt.
Slacken: Nut on left hand side of gear box top fixing bolt.
Two clamping strap bolts.
Adjust chain by means of adjuster eye-bolt and two nuts,
(The correct chain whip is a") .
Check the adjustment in several positions and adjust at tightest part of chain.
Tighter two clamping strap bolts, top gear box fixing bolt.
Refit rear engine cowling and securing screws.
Replace chaincase inspection cap.
NOTE—After adjusting front chain, check rear chain adjustment.
REMOVING T H E FRONT C H A I N (350 c.c. Model)
The front chain fitted to this model is duplex and endless, which means that the clutch'
sprocket, also the engine sprocket must be withdrawn simultaneously if the front chain
is to be removed. To proceed, follow the instructions given for dismantling the clutch,
as far as removing the gearbox main axle shaft nut. Then remove the nut and washer
retaining the rotor to the driving side engine shaft, take out the key for the rotor from
the shaft. The engine sprocket and clutch, together with the chain in position, can
then be withdrawn.
NOTE—One or more shim washers may be fitted at the rear of the engine sprocket,
which must be replaced during assembly.
REAR C H A I N ADJUSTMENT
Prior to adjusting rear chain, check front chain and adjust if required.
Loosen both nuts on the rear wheel spindle.
Loosen lock nuts on the adjusters and turn the adjusters until correct chain adjustment
is obtained, taking care to move both adjusters exactly the same amount to maintain
wheel alignment.
While on the stand the chain whip should be ¾" to ensure ½" whip when rider is seated.
Check the adjustment in several positions and adjust at tightest part of chain.
Remove the rubber cap on the totally enclosed chain guard to check chain tension.
Retighten wheel spindle nuts, and adjuster lock nuts.
NOTE—After chain adjustment rear brake should be checked and readjusted as necessary-
See brake adjustment,
REMOVING A N D REFITTING REAR C H A I N
To protect the rear chain from mud and water it is very closely shrouded by the chains
guard and removing the chain without first detaching the chain guard, can present.
considerable difficulty. A simple procedure however, is as follows:—
First obtain a piece of thin string about ten feet long.
With cycle on the stand turn the rear wheel until the chain connecting link is at a position
near the rear sprocket, and remove the connecting link.
Now pass the string through the centre hole of the end link of the top run, draw the two
ends of the string level and tie together.
Then pull the bottom run of the chain backwards with one hand while keeping the-
string taut at the rear end with the other hand.
As the end of the top run of the chain disengages with the gear box sprocket it will leave
the string attached lying one strand each side of the sprocket teeth.
When the chain is well clear cut the string one side only at a point about one foot from
where it is looped through the chain link.
Leave the string then in situ awaiting chain refitting.
To refit the chain
Pass the longer cut end of the string through the centre hole of the end chain link and then
tie the two loose ends of the string together.
Then pull the string from the rear end, at the same time guiding the chain up to engage
with the gear box sprocket.
Continue pulling until the chain encircles the sprocket. Remove the string, refit the
connecting link with the spring clip closed end facing direction of rotation.
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