Matchless 46/G3L 1946 Maintenance Manual And Instruction Book
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Matchless Manuals
  4. Motorcycle
  5. 46/G3L 1946
  6. Maintenance manual and instruction book

Matchless 46/G3L 1946 Maintenance Manual And Instruction Book

Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
INSTRUCTION
BOOK
350 c . c. and 500 c.c.
CLUBMA N
O.H.V., MA TCHLESS
MATCHLESS
MOTOR
PROPRIETORS : ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LIMITED
P L U M S T E A D · LO N D O N · S .E .1 8
AND
for
1 9 4 6
MODELS
CYCLES
EDITION CM-1 (Revised)

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the 46/G3L 1946 and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Subscribe to Our Youtube Channel

Related Manuals for Matchless 46/G3L 1946

Summary of Contents for Matchless 46/G3L 1946

  • Page 1 350 c . c. and 500 c.c. CLUBMA N MODELS O.H.V., MA TCHLESS MATCHLESS MOTOR CYCLES PROPRIETORS : ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LIMITED P L U M S T E A D · LO N D O N · S .E .1 8...
  • Page 3 Codes : A.B.C. 5th and 6th Edition ; Bentley's ; and Private Codes All correspondence to :— MATCHLESS MOTOR CYCLES, PLUMSTEAD ROAD, LONDON, S.E.18 Supplied free, upon application, with each new motor cycle. Replacement Copies, 1/6 each EDITIO N CM-1 (Revised)
  • Page 4 1946 MATCHLESS "Clubman" MODELS 350 "CLUBMAN" Model G3L "CLUBMAN" Model G80L 46/G3L — Bore 69 mm. Stroke 93 mm. Capacity 347 c.c. 4 6 / G 8 0 L — Bore 8 2 ·5 m.m. Stroke 93 mm. Capacity 4 9 8 c.c.

  • Page 5: Gear Box

    DATA DATA Description. "350" Models "500" 350 & 500 Engine number Stamped on left-hand side of crankcase. Stamped on right-hand side of seat lug. Frame number 350 & 500 (Below saddle). 347 Cubic Centimetres. Cubic Capacity (Actual) 498 Cubic Centimetres. Millimetres.
  • Page 6 Gear ratios (Touring). 350 Solo. 500 Solo. 500 Sidecar. Engine Sprocket, Engine Sprocket, Engine Sprocket, 18 teeth 21 teeth 19 teeth 5.8 to 1 5.5 t o 1 … … 5.0 to 1 7.5 to 1 … … Third 6.4 to 1 7.0 to 1 …...
  • Page 7 (k) Spokes. (300 and 500). Front, left side, 5 m" by 8g. by 10g. Butted. Front, right side, 8 x" by 9g. by 11g. Butted. Rear, both sides, 8 x" by 6g. by 9g. Butted. Spoke lengths are measured under the head. (Not overall length).

  • Page 8: Clutch Lever

    CONTROLS CONTROLS Throttle twist grip. Twist inwards to open. When fully closed engine should just idle when hot. A i r control lever. Pull inwards to increase air supply. Once set, when engine has warmed up, requires no alteration for different road speeds. Should be fully closed to start engine from cold.
  • Page 9 Before using the machine, sit on the saddle and become familiar with the position and operation of the various controls. Pay particular attention to the gear positions. Para. 7 and Illustration 3. Although all the controls are adjustable for position, the only ones that may require alteration to suit the individual taste of the rider are the foot brake pedal (see Para.

  • Page 10: Driving

    DRIVING FUEL At the time of writing this instruction book only one grade of motor fuel is on sale but it is certain that, very soon, the various grades of pre-war petrol will again be available. We recommend the use only of best quality fuel because the small amount of economy that might be considered to accrue by using the cheaper fuels is more than offset by the various advances obtained by only using Number One grades.

  • Page 11: Starting The Engine

    5 STARTING THE ENGINE See that there is sufficient fuel in the petrol tank. See that there is sufficient oil in the oil tank. See that the gear pedal is in the neutral position. (See Para. 7). Push inward the hexagonal end of one petrol tap slide. See that the air control lever is in the fully closed position.

  • Page 12: Stopping The Engine

    STOPPING THE ENGINE To scop the engine, close the throttle, raise the valve lifter lever and keep it raised until the engine has ceased to revolve. ON THE ROAD Having started and warmed up the engine, take the machine off the stand, sit astride it, free the clutch by pulling up the large lever on the left bar and engage the lowest gear.

  • Page 13: Stopping The Machine

    The exhaust valve lifter is N O T used in normal driving on main and secondary roads. When travelling slowly, such as may occur in traffic on a hill, and the engine commences to labour, it is then necessary to change to a lower gear. Engine "...

  • Page 14: O Il Pump

    Illustration 4 Showing the oil tank with the felt filter in its cylindrical housing and the metal strainer mounted on the entry end of the feed pipe union. Also shows the direction of flow of oil from tank to engine and return flow from engine to tank via the small spout, located so that it can be inspected by removing the tank filler cap (mentioned in Para.
  • Page 15 LUBRICATION LUBRICANTS TO USE Efficient lubrication is of vital importance and it is false economy to use cheap oils and greases. We recommend the following lubricants for use in machines of our make :— FOR ENGINE LUBRICATION IN SUMMER : Castrol "...
  • Page 16 FILLING THE GREASE GUN The standard grease gun consists of a barrel having a spring loaded end cap, to which is fixed a centre steel piston in the shape of a long rod. This piston fits into a small cylinder made in one with the screwed top cap, on the end of which is the supped nozzle that fits over the grease nipples.

  • Page 17: Engine Lubrication System

    16 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM This is by dry sump system. Oil feeds, by gravity, from oil tank under saddle to pump in crankcase. Pump forces oil to various parts. Oil then drains to bottom of crankcase sump. Pump then returns oil to rank. Process is continuous while engine is revolving. Pump is designed to return more oil to tank than it can force into engine.
  • Page 18 For access to filter :— Remove the two bolts fixing the saddle springs to frame. Raise rear of saddle. Unscrew hexagon cap on top of oil tank. Withdraw spring and dished cap washer. Insert finger in filter and withdraw to the rear of machine. (Great care needed towards end of this operation otherwise filter will be kinked.) To re-fit filter :—...

  • Page 19: Cylinder Head

    Illustration 6 The inlet valve guide is shown withdrawn and the inlet valve stem oil adjusting screw (with lock nut) is also withdrawn. (See para. 20.) (By courtesy of " Motor Cycling ") PLAIN HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE CYLIN- TAPPED HOLE, ACCOMMODATE DER HEAD RETAINING BOLT.

  • Page 20: Chain Lubrication

    GEAR BOX LUBRICATION The gear box must not be entirely filled with grease, and, under normal conditions, the addition of about two ounces of create every 1,000 miles will be sufficient. In no circumstances must heavy grease be used for gear box lubrication. See para. 14. Lubricant may be inserted through grease nipple on the kick-starter case or through the filler cap orifice.

  • Page 21: Brake Pedal Lubrication

    28 BRAKE PEDAL LUBRICATION Grease nipple in heel of brake foot pedal. Use grease sparingly. 29 SPEEDOMETER LUBRICATION One nipple on top of speedometer gear pox attached to rear wheel spindle. Use grease sparingly. No other part of the speedometer (including the driving cable) requires Iubrication.

  • Page 22: Lubrication Chart

    CONTROL LEVER LUBRICATION A drop of engine oil on all moving parts of the handlebar control levers. Also, if the twist grip operation is too tight, indicating dryness, lubricate as follows :— Remove the two screws that retain the two halves of the twist grip body. This will release the grip so that it can be slid off the handlebar.

  • Page 23: Periodical Maintenance

    MAINTENANCE PERIODICAL MAINTENANCE Regular maintenance attention to lubrication and certain adjustments must be made to ensure unfailing reliability and satisfactory service and performance. This attention is detailed below and we strongly recommend every rider to carefully follow these suggestions. The reference numbers, in brackets, refer to the locations specified on the Lubrication Chart.
  • Page 24 Control levers :— Smear moving parts with engine oil. (7). Brake joints :— Smear yoke end pins at front and rear ends of brake rod and at bottom end of front brake cable with engine oil. (8). QUARTERLY Sparking plug :— Clean and, if necessary, re-set point gap.

  • Page 25: Front Fork

    EVERY 1.000 MILES Hubs :— The hubs are packed with grease during assembly to lubricate the bearings and prevent the entry of mud and water. A grease nipple is on each hub shell. Inject grease, which must not be excessive in quantity or the surplus may reach the brake and so impair its efficiency.

  • Page 26: Engine Service

    ENGINE SERVICE 36 ACCESS For almost all service work to the upper parts of the engine, it is necessary, in order to obtain accessibility, first, to remove the petrol tank. The two petrol taps facilitates this operation by removing the need to first drain the tank of petrol. TO REMOVE THE PETROL TANK Disconnect the petrol feed pipe from both petrol taps.
  • Page 27 TO REPLACE THE PETROL TANK Place a metal washer on each tank support bracket. Place a thick rubber pad on each metal washer. Place the tank in position. Place a meal washer on the hexagon-headed tank fixing bolt and screw it into the rear left-hand location.
  • Page 28 Ensure each rocker box fixing bolt has a plain steel washer on it and then insert the bolts and screw down each a few turns. (Note that the bolt having the short head is in the centre, right-hand, position and, on 500 c.c., that the bolt with the threaded extension is in its correct position.
  • Page 29 TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE VALVES Remove the cylinder head. (See Para. 41). Rest, in turn, head of each valve on small wood block and compress springs to allow removal of valve split collets. The collets are a taper fit in the valve spring collars and it may be necessary to give the collar a sharp tap to release them.
  • Page 30 Generally, one application of grinding compound wilt be ample for the inlet valve, but two or three applications may be necessary for the exhaust valve before the seating is restored. The grinding may be considered satisfactory and completed when a continuous matt ring is observed on both valve and valve seat.
  • Page 31 45 TO REPLACE THE CYLINDER HEAD A gasket is fitted between cylinder head and barrel. The top ends of the push rod cover tubes have rubber gaskets between tubes and head, they are a push fit and metal washers are located between the top edges of the gaskets and the cylinder head recesses.
  • Page 32 Note :— The gudgeon is an easy sliding fit in both piston and connecting rod small-end bush. Rings may be removed from a piston by " peeling off " with a knife, or by introducing behind the rings three pieces of thin steel spaced at 120° from each other and then sliding off the rings.
  • Page 33 Illustration 10 Inlet Camshaft timing marks. When checking the valve timing the tappet clearances must be set to .016" so that the tappets may be well clear of the quietening curves of the camshafts. The timing gears are marked to facilitate their replacement. To re-set the valve timing, by using the marks on the gears, proceed as follows :—...

  • Page 34: 50 Tappet Adjustment

    50 TAPPET ADJUSTMENT The top ends of the two long push rods have screwed extensions. These are locked in position by nuts, thereby providing tappet adjustment. The correct tappet clearances, with valves closed and engine cold, is N I L . This means the push rods should be free enough to revolve and, at the same time there should be no appreciable up and down play.

  • Page 35: Contact Breaker

    TO RE-TIME THE IGNITION The maximum advance is v". Have available a stout screwdriver, or an old type tyre lever with turned up end, and a bar of metal about ¼" diameter and 5½" long. Before setting the ignition firing point it is essential the magneto contact breaker points are correctly adjusted.
  • Page 36 TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE OIL PUMP PLUNGER Remove :— Lower end of rocker box oil feed pipe by unscrewing union nut. Both oil pump end caps. Oil pump plunger guide screw. (See Illustration 13). O i l pump plunger, by pushing at from and extracting from rear end of its housing. Replace by :—...

  • Page 37: Carburetter Service

    OVERSIZE PARTS A N D RE-BORING CYLINDER BARREL Pistons and rings, .020" larger than standard, are available. This degree of oversize is such that it is essential for the cylinder barrel to be re-bored to accommodate it. We can provide chat service at prices quoted in the Spares List. On the 350 c.c the cylinder standard bore is 2.7187 ±...
  • Page 38 The size of the main jet should not be altered save for some very good reason. See Data, Para. 1 (Sub Para. c), for details of standard jet sizes, throttle valves, chokes and jet tapper needles. With the standard setting it is possible to use nearly full air in all conditions, except, perhaps, when the engine is pulling hard up hill or is on full throttle, when some benefit may be obtained by slightly closing the air control.
  • Page 39 Illustration 14 Showing details of the pilot jet with its air adjusting screw and the throttle stop screw. F—M...
  • Page 40 CARBURETTER TUNING INFORMATION Poor idling may be due to :— Air leaks. Either at junction of carburetter and engine, or by reason of badly worn inlet valve stem or guide. Faulty engine valve seatings. Sparking plug faulty, or its points set too closely. Ignition advanced too much.

  • Page 41: Transmission Service

    TRANSMISSION SERVICE 59 THE GEAR BOX The gear box provides four speeds and has a positive foot change, operated by the right foot, and a kick-starter. It is retained to the main frame by being clamped between the two engine rear plates by two bolts.
  • Page 42 Sliding gear (C) on mainshaft is in mid-way position, i.e., disengaged from gears B and D. Layshaft sliding clutch (W) moves to left and engages with gear F. Power passes through clutch A. to mainshaft T, to mainshaft sliding gear C, to layshaft gear F, to layshaft clutch W, to layshaft V, to layshaft gear E, to main gear B, to chain sprocket J.
  • Page 43 To remove dynamo chain and back half of chaincase :— Remove the spring lock ring on dynamo sprocket retaining nut. Take away lock washer surrounding dynamo sprocket nut. Apply spanner (RTK-1, included in tool kit) to the two flats on the back of the dynamo sprocket and, holding same, unscrew the nut retaining the dynamo sprocket.
  • Page 44 Fit the clutch centre and sprocket by :— Place on the gear box main shaft the thicker of the two clutch sprocket roller bearing retaining washers. Place in the gear box main shaft the clutch sprocket roller bearing ring. With grease, stick in place on the bearing ring the twenty-four clutch sprocket bearing rollers.
  • Page 45 Fully tighten the metal band binding screw. Replace, on the brake rod, the knurled adjusting nut, and adjust the rear brake. (See Para. 90). Allow time for the liquid jointing compound to set and then :— Remove inspection cap from the chaincase and pour in engine oil to the level mentioned in Para.

  • Page 46: Clutch Adjustment

    On allowing the clutch handlebar lever to return to its normal position the clutch operating lever becomes " free " and the clutch spring pressure causes the clutch thrust rod D, the steel ball C and the operating plunger B to move to the right. The whole of the clutch spring pressure is thereby transferred to the clutch spring pressure plate F and this forces the steel plates G tightly against the clutch friction plates H to that power, transmitted by the engine to clutch sprocket L, is transferred...

  • Page 47: Clutch Cable Adjustment

    Obtain adjustment of clutch mechanism by (See Illustration 17) :— Remove the two strews 333-X. Take away the cap 328-X. Adjust the sleeve nut 331-X as may be necessary as follows. To increase clearance between clutch operating lever 175-X-4 and operating plunger 330-X, turn sleeve nut in a right-hand, or clockwise, direction.

  • Page 48: Rear Chain Adjustment

    Note :— The amount of play, or free movement, can easily be discovered by virtue of the greatly increased resistance of the handlebar clutch control lever as the de-clutch- ing action commences. To remove a clutch control cable :— Remove the oil filler cap from the kick-starter case cover. Screw right home the clutch cable adjuster that is located in the back of the kick- starter case.
  • Page 49 N o t e :— Before tightening the rear chain, check the front chain adjustment, and, if attention is necessary adjust front chain first. Altering the adjustment of the front chain upsets the adjustment of the rear chain. Therefore, after making a front chain adjustment, always check the rear chain adjustment and re-set if necessary.
  • Page 50 ENGINE SHOCK ABSORBER The engine shock absorber is a spring device for smoothing out the impulses transmitted by a single cylinder engine. The engine sprocket is a free fit on the driving side flywheel axle. It has, integral with it, a face cam that engages with a similar face cam (shock absorber cam) which is keyed to the driving side flywheel axle by splines.
  • Page 51 FRAME & FORK SERVICE 72 STEERING HEAD ADJUSTMENT The steering head races are of the floating self-aligning type and have spherical seats. Therefore they do not fit tightly in the head lug and handlebar clip lug. The two races in the head lug and the race in the handlebar clip lug are all identical. The lowest of the four races (fork crown ball race) is dissimilar to the others.

  • Page 52: Damper Tube Details

    As will be seen, the sliding members operate on steel bushes attached to the bottom ends of the main tubes and also upon bakelite bushes secured to the top ends of the sliders themselves. Above each bakelite bush will be observed an oil seal, provided to overcome any possibility of oil leakage into the spring chamber.
  • Page 53 It will thus be gathered that, on the shock movement of the sliders, slight damper action occurs, with a greatly increased damper action on the reverse movement, both actions automatically increasing in effect the more violent the movement. Before concluding this description, it should be mentioned that upon a very violent impact, as a result of which the springs are almost fully compressed, the damping of the upward movement of the sliders is automatically increased by the greatly restricted passage for the displaced oil.
  • Page 54 Illustration 19...
  • Page 55 CIRCLIP, INNER TUBE BOTTOM BOLT, FOR TOP OF INNER TUBE. STEEL BUSH. HANDLEBAR LUG. CAP, FOR FORK SLIDER. ADJUSTING NUT, FOR HEAD STEM. NUT, FOR FRONT WHEEL AXLE STUD. LOCK NUT, FOR STEM ADJUSTING N U T . STUD, SECURING FRONT WHEEL AXLE CAP, FOR TOP COVER TUBE.
  • Page 56 Note :— Exercise great care when removing and re-fitting the oil seals. Make the inner tube left assembly by :— Exactly the same as for the right-hand assembly (b). Make the right-hand damper tube and slider assembly by :— Take a damper tube rod and fit. in the drilled end, a damper stop pin. Place a damper valve on the same end of the rod, reduced end outwards, so that the valve body can slide over the stop pin.
  • Page 57 Illustration 20 Fit the inner tube assemblies (b and c) to the front fork crown assembly by :— Take one inner tube assembly, introduce the t o p end (the internally threaded end) to the fork crown (immaterial if left or right side) and push it upwards till it engages with the handlebar clip lug and then gently force it home.
  • Page 58 Fit the front mudguard, front stand, front wheel and make final adjustments by :— Fit front mudguard and stays. Fit front stand. Hold the near side clamp, or cap, on the front wheel spindle and offer up wheel so as to engage that clamp with its retaining studs. At the same time, engage the slot in the brake cover plate with the stud in the left-hand side fork slider.
  • Page 59 79 TO REMOVE OIL TANK AND BATTERY CARRIER Two studs on the seat tube, one facing to the front, the other facing to the rear, engage with t w o right-angle stays on the oil tank and two similar stays on the battery carrier and two washers and nuts, fitted to the studs, retain the oil tank and battery carrier in position.
  • Page 60 WHEEL, BRAKE & TYRE SERVICE TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL Prepare by :— Place machine on rear and front stands. Remove :— The split pin, and pin, retaining yoke end of front brake cable to the brake expander lever. Release, but do not remove, the nut retaining the brake cover plate to the fork slider.
  • Page 61 Illustration 21 REAR HUB (In all relative details the construction of the front and rear hubs, is similar) DISHED CUP, FOR OIL SEAL. WASHER, SOLID SPINDLE. FORK END OF FRAME. NUT, SOLID SPINDLE. WASHER, SOLID SPINDLE. SPRING CIRCLIP. NUT, SOLID SPINDLE. RETAINING RING, FOR OIL SEAL.
  • Page 62 R e - f i t in the reverse order but, before finally tightening the rear wheel spindle nuts, ensure the speedometer gear box is so positioned that the speedometer driving cable can be correctly replaced. When the wheel alignment is correct a piece of thin string stretched taut across both wheels, about four inches from, and parallel to, the ground, should just touch each tyre at both sides of the wheel centres.
  • Page 63 Illustration 22 Showing exploded view of hub bearing components. SPRING CIRCLIP, (FITS IN GROOVE CUT FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE, WITH SET OF IN UNTHREADED END OF HUB. TAPER ROLLERS MOUNTED IN CAGES. OIL SEAL ASSEMBLY, CONSISTING OF : REAR WHEEL HOLLOW SPINDLE WITH 1 SPACING RING (11) SET OF TAPER ROLLERS MOUNTED IN 1 OIL SEAL...
  • Page 64 Remove :— Adjusting ring. (The lock nut 16 will come away with it). Dished steel washer. Oil seal. Plain steel washer. Turn to opposite end of hub. Remove :— Spring ring fitted lust inside the hub end. Plain steel washer. O i l seal, w i t h the spacing collar encircling i t .

  • Page 65: Brake Shoe Adjustment

    Screw into the hub shell the adjusting ring (5 Illustration 22). Screw the lock nut (6 Illustration 22) on the adjusting ring. Adjust hub bearings by the method described in Para. 83. Inject two fluid ounces of grease into the hub shell. (Through grease nipple in hub barrel).
  • Page 66 Centralise brake shoes by :— Ensure the nut binding the cover plate to the wheel spindle is slightly slack. Place on the brake expander lever a tubular spanner (to increase the leverage). and, while maintaining pressure on the tubular spanner (to expand fully the brake shoes), fully tighten the spindle nut binding the cover plate to spindle.

  • Page 67: Rear Brake Adjustment

    Illustation 24 Showing the rear brake pedal with his adjusting bolt and lock nut. To permanently raise the toe end of the pedal, slacken lock nut (B) and unscrew the adjusting bolt (A). (Check back brake adjustment after). REAR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT Major adjustment of the rear brake shoes is made on the brake thrust collars, as described in Para.

  • Page 68: Front Brake Adjustment

    91 FRONT BRAKE ADJUSTMENT Major adjustment of the front brake shoes is made on the brake thrust collars, as described in Para. 87. Minor adjustment of the front brake shoes is made by altering the position of the knurled cable adjuster on the fork assembly. (Unscrew the brake cable adjuster to "...

  • Page 69: Tyre Removal

    RIMS, SPOKES AND SECURITY BOLTS The front and rear rims are 19" by 2½" and accommodate the same size of tyre (26" by 3.25"), but they are not interchangeable because the nipple holes in the front rim are smaller than those in the rear rim. The dimensions of spokes will be found in Para.

  • Page 70: Tyre Pressures

    96 TYRE FITTING Re-fit inner tube and outer cover by :— Place one edge of cover right into well of rim, and, commencing diametrically opposite, and using the hands only, work the cover over the edge of the rim. Replace the valve " inside " and slightly inflate the inner tube. (Do not distend the tube).

  • Page 71: Electrical Service

    ELECTRICAL SERVICE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT LUCAS electrical equipment is fitted and this comprises three independent electrical circuits, as follows :— (a) IGNITION—Magneto, High-tension W i r e and Sparking Plug. (b) CHARGING—Dynamo, Cut-out Regulator, Ammeter Battery. (c) L I G H T I N G A N D ACCESSORIES—Lamps, Wires,...
  • Page 72 CONTACT BREAKER BODY BACKING SPRING TAPET CONTACT CONTACT BREAKER SECURING SCREW LOCKING PLATE Illustration 28 Showing component details of Contact Breaker. Lubricate contact breaker cam and tappet by :— Remove contact breaker as described above. Saturate, with a few drops of thin machine oil, the wick mounted in the core of its carrying screw B, Illustration 27.
  • Page 73 Complete service (dismantling, cleaning, lubrication of the armature shaft bearings, etc.) should be entrusted to a Lucas Service Station and should be done about every ten thousand miles. Sparking plug :— The sparking plug has a thread of 14 mm. and the reach is ½". The point gap should be from .020 to .025".
  • Page 74 AMMETER TERMlNAL SCREWS TAGS SECURING AMMETER LlGHTING SWITCH Illustration 30 Showing the panel contain- ing the Lucas Lighting Switch Ammeter removed from the Head Lamp. To remove ammeter :— Remove the panel from top of headlamp by taking away the three retaining screws.
  • Page 75 Illustration 31 Lucas Battery. ELECTROLYTE LEVEL Pour distilled water in each cell to bring the electrolyte level with the tops of the plate separators. Acid must not be added to the electrolyte unless some is accidentally spilled. Should this happen, make loss good with acid diluted to same specific gravity as acid in the cell.
  • Page 76 101 LIGHTING AND ACCESSORIES Headlamp :— A LUCAS type DU-42 headlamp is fitted. It has a panel mounted in its top and that panel carries the main lighting switch and the ammeter. The pilot bulb is a 6 volt bulb, 3 watts. S.B.C. The main bulb is a 6 volt bulb, with double filaments, 24 watts.
  • Page 77 Rear lamp :— A LUCAS rear lamp is fitted. The body, with bulb holder, is secured to the rear number plate by two screws and one bolt, with washers and nuts. The cover, carrying the red glass, is secured to the body by t w o spring clips. To remove the cover, slightly twist it and then pull outwards.

  • Page 78: Electric Horn

    Earth wires :— There are two earth wires, one from the regulator and the second from the negative terminal of the battery. The ends of those wires have sleeve terminals, as described in the above paragraph, and are secured to the seat lug bolt (just below the saddle on the left-hand side by means of a screw and washer and it is essential the connections are kept clean and the screw must be kept fully tight.

  • Page 79: Wiring Diagram

    KEY TO CABLE COLORS BLUE & PURPLE BLUE & BLACK RED & YELLOW RED & BLUE WHITE RED & WHITE WHITE & GREEN RED & GREEN WHITE & BROWN RED & BROWN WHITE & PURPLE RED & BLACK WHITE & BLACK YELLOW GREEN YELLOW &...

  • Page 80: Tools And Special Equipment

    TOOLS AND SPECIAL EQUIPMENT 102 TOOLS The standard tool kit, issued with each new machine, contains :— 17520 Tool bag. (Not shown in Illustration 35). 36-G3-EQ2 Tyre inflator. W40-G3-TK29 Tyre lever. LTK-15 Pliers. 11024 Gudgeon pin circlip pliers. LTK-13 Screwdriver. LTK-20 Grease gun.
  • Page 81 Illustration 35 Description Part Number Description Part Number Spanner, Dynamo RTK1 Crease Gun LTK20 Spanner, 3 - W a y . Pliers LTK15 .820 x 1.011 x 1.200 RTK3 Circlip Pliers 11024 Spanner. Light Spanner, 6' Adjust- Forged, x" x ¼" able LTK12 W41/G3L/TK1...

  • Page 82: Useful Information

    USEFUL INFORMATION TRACING TROUBLES In the following five paragraphs are particulars of failures and troubles that can occur together w i t h the probable reasons. These troubles are arranged in the order of their probability. Engine fails to start, or is difficult to start, may be due to :— Throttle opening too large.
  • Page 83 Engine overheats may be due to :— Lack of proper lubrication. (Quality or quantity of oil). Faulty sparking plug. Air control to carburetter out of order. Punctured carburetter float. Engine carbonised. Weak valve springs. Pitted valve seats. Worn piston rings. Ignition lever creeps to full retard position.
  • Page 84 110 CLEANING THE MACHINE Do not attempt to rub. or brush, mud off the enamelled surfaces because this will soon destroy the sheen of the enamel. Mud, and other road dirt, should be soaked off with water. The best method is to use a small hose, taking care not to direct water on to the engine, carburetter, magneto and other such parts.
  • Page 85 CORRESPONDENCE Our routine is organised into different departments, therefore delay cannot be avoided if matters relating to more than one department are contained in one letter. Consequently it is desirable, when communicating with more than one department, to do so on separate sheets, each of which should bear your name and address. In articular, requests for Technical Advice should not be on the same sheets as orders for spare parts.
  • Page 86 115 GUARANTEE We give the following guarantee with our motorcycles, motorcycle combinations and sidecars, which is given in place of any implied conditions, warranties or liabilities whatsoever, statutory or otherwise. All such implied conditions, warranties and liabilities being in all cases excluded. statement, description, condition or representation contained in any catalogue, advertisement, leaflet or other publication shall not be construed as enlarging, varying or overriding this guarantee.
  • Page 87 The nearest Railway Station is WOOLWICH ARSENAL, SOUTHERN RAILWAY, This Station is five minutes' walk from our Service Depot in Burrage Grove. There is an excellent service of electric trains from Charing Cross, Waterloo, Cannon Street and London Bridge Stations, Southern Railway. Bus services 53, 53a, 54, 75, 99, 122, and 161.
  • Page 88 In due course you will receive :— (1) A Registration Book. (Commonly called the " log " book). (2) A Licence Disc. (3) Your insurance certificate. (4) Your invoice. The Registration Book and the Licence Disc will bear the registration numbers that have been allotted to your machine and will also show the data the Road Licence expires.
  • Page 89 Illustration 36 Wiring Diagram. (Pictorial.)

  • Page 90: Table Of Contents

    INDEX Page Carburetter Service … … … … … … Controls … … … … … … … … Data … … … … … … … … Driv ing … … … … … … … … Electrical Service …...

This manual is also suitable for:

46/g80l 1946

Table of Contents

Save PDF