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TO REPLACE CLUTCH CO NT RO L CABLE
Reverse the above instructions and, finally, adjust as detailed earlier.
in f r o n t of the gear box clamp bolt.
C L U T C H ADJUSTMENT
Attention to the clutch is usually confined to adjustment of the operating mechanism.
To avoid clutch slip or clutch drag, it is essential to have x of an inch free movement
between the clutch outer casing and the clutch cable adjuster. Without such movement
the operating mechanism will be pre-loaded causing wear on the operating parts, also
clutch slip. Conversely, excessive movement in the clutch cable will prevent separation
of the friction plates and cause the clutch to drag, thus making the gear selection
difficult.
As the clutch Inserts tend to settle down, this has the effect of lengthening the
clutch push rod, as the width of the friction inserts are slightly reduced. To deal with
clutch drag, or clutch slip, first unscrew the clutch cable adjuster lock nut which is
located at the handlebar end, run down the adjuster as far as it will go.
Remove the clutch inspection cap, unscrew one or two turns the adjuster lock nut,.
shown in illustration of clutch assembly on page 27.
With a screwdriver, screw in the adjuster until contact with the push rod can be felt,
unscrew the adjuster exactly half a turn and retighten the lock nut, taking care the
adjuster does not move.
adjuster until there is x" movement between the outer casing and the adjuster, tighten
the lock nut.
Replace the inspection cap.
Clutch slip should be dealt with promptly otherwise the friction plates will be damaged
and the clutch springs affected by heat. The normal free length of the clutch springs is
1¾" the clutch push rod length is 10".
DISMANTLING THE CLUTCH
NOTE—Nuts and screws in the clutch and gear box assembly have a right hand thread,
with the exception of the nut retaining the gear box rear chain sprocket, which
has a LEFT HAND THREAD.
Commence by removing the primary drive cover.
Unscrew in turn the three clutch spring adjusting screws, take away the clutch spring
pressure plate complete with the spring cups and springs, leaving the steel and friction
plates free for removal.
shaft nut is F" across flats.
Engage top gear, apply pressure on the rear brake pedal.
With a box key unscrew the gear box shaft nut.
Remove the chain connecting link, the clutch hub which is on a splined shaft can be
pulled off after nut has been removed.
For access to the clutch bearing unscrew the three nuts securing the clutch studs and back
plate. The clutch bearing arrangement is shown in illustration 9, page 27.
TO DISMANTLE CLUTCH SHOCK ABSORBER
The six rubber blocks used in the shock absorber can be replaced by:
Removing front chaincase.
Removing clutch spring pressure plate together with spring and spring cups.
Removing three screws also plate for shock absorber compartment (see illustration 10)
A " C " shaped spanner engaged with two
slots in the clutch hub or a clutch steel
plate with an extension handle welded to
it can be used to compress the thick
rubbers, whilst the thin rubbers are
extracted.
To do this engage top gear, apply pressure
on the rear brake pedal, position the
tool to be used and pull the handle up-
wards, or opposite to the direction of
clutch rotation. With the aid of a short
piece of wheel spoke with a pointed end
the thin rubbers can be first prised out
then the thick ones,
Reverse this procedure to refit replace-
ment rubber blocks.
NOTE—If clutch hub is removed, a tool
similar to a gear box mainshaft
held in a vice will be required to hold the hub, whilst rubber blocks are extracted.
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Complete the adjustment by unscrewing the clutch cable
A box key is required to unscrew the nut and sprocket.
28
28
Locate the cable
Illustration 10
The
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