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DuskStik Builder's
Manual
Thank you for purchasing the DuskStik. The DuskStik has been designed to be easy to build, easy to fly,
and strong enough to withstand the abuse of a beginner pilot. The plans have been written for the first
time builder. Take your time and enjoy building this plane. It is a great, well-behaved flyer. I have had
many wonderful hours flying it and hope you will too.
Doug
May 17, 2001
Last revised March 25, 2002
Copyright 2001 Douglas Binder, Mountain Models
www.mountainmodels.com
(719) 592-1387
(719) 528-6125 fax
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Summary of Contents for Mountain Models DuskStik

  • Page 1 DuskStik Builder’s Manual Thank you for purchasing the DuskStik. The DuskStik has been designed to be easy to build, easy to fly, and strong enough to withstand the abuse of a beginner pilot. The plans have been written for the first time builder.
  • Page 2: Required Equipment

    Required Equipment To build: Xacto with #11 blades Thin and Thick CA – Cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue) Sanding block with 200 grit sandpaper Smooth, flat work table Wax paper to protect plans Needle nose pliers Wire cutters Hobby Iron for applying covering – also called a sealing iron To fly: Three channel radio (The FMA Extreme 5 is highly recommended, second is the GWS-R4P micro receiver.
  • Page 3: Notes And Hints

    DuskStik can survive rough landings. • There is very little that is critical when building the DuskStik. The only thing that requires special attention is to make sure the wings are not twisted. If the wings are straight, the DuskStik should fly hands-off without any trim.
  • Page 4 Fig 2. Wing Mount Flush Wing Yoke 6. Build wheels the same as in step 3, i.e., sandwich plywood-balsa-plywood. In this case it is plywood hub, balsa hub, plywood wheel, balsa wheel, plywood wheel, balsa hub, plywood hub. Slide the parts over the aluminum tube and get everything aligned. The smaller round punch-out with the axle hole is the wheel hub.
  • Page 5: Wing Assembly

    Vertical Stabilizer, Rudder, Horizontal Stabilizer, and Elevator Assembly The tail assemblies are made up from parts found on the 3/32” balsa laser cut sheet. The plans are laid out on a flat worktable and taped down, and then a sheet of wax paper is laid over the plans. This will protect the plans from the glue.
  • Page 6 1. If you are not building the extended wing, cut off the extra length of the trailing edge. Cut outside the notch (keep the notch). Fig 6. If you are building the extended wing, glue the trailing edge extensions on to the trailing edge pieces with thick CA.
  • Page 7 3. Remove ribs from 1/16” balsa sheet. Stack up the ribs and lightly sand the edges to remove the little nubs that held the ribs in the sheet. 4. Tape the wing plans down on a flat building surface and cover the wing half you are building with a sheet of wax paper to keep the glue off the plans.
  • Page 8 14. Glue the eight ¾” triangle braces in place with thick CA. Fig 11. Spar Webbing Braces Sand flush with rib 15. Sand the ends of the leading edge, trailing edge, and two spars so that they are flush with ribs. Build outer wing section We will build the outer wing directly onto the center wing to ensure a good fit between the two.
  • Page 9 Dihedral Wing Assembly 28. Cut trailing edge and lower spar (1/8”x1/4”) to length as marked on the plans. This is 21 inches out, or 25 inches out for the extended wing. Cut outside the notch on the trailing edge. The extended wing trailing edge is already the correct length.
  • Page 10: Fuselage Assembly

    42. Set aside for covering later. Fuselage Assembly 1. Lightly sand the carbon fiber fuselage tube to remove any coating so that the CA will stick to it better. 2. Bend the 1/16” music wire landing gear as follows: 2a. Bend the 1/16” music wire in half. 2b.
  • Page 11 4. Glue motor mount to top of fuselage with thick CA. The motor mount should be flat on the fuselage and level with the work surface, side to side, when the landing gear is resting on the work surface. Fig 17. 5.
  • Page 12 7. Bend the tail skid out of a 3½” piece of the thin music wire using the plans as a guide. Note that you start by bending the wire back on itself to form a ½” long loop. Attach the tail skid to the fuselage 3”...
  • Page 13 Covering The Tail 1. Sand the vertical stabilizer, horizontal stabilizer, rudder, and elevator smooth and round edges (except bottom of vertical stabilizer where it will be glued to the fuselage). 2. Sand bevel between vertical stabilizer and rudder, and horizontal stabilizer and elevator. Fig 24.
  • Page 14 6. Flip the surface over so that the covering is under the surface and trim the wrap with NEW Xacto blade leaving 1/8” excess. 7. Tack the excess wrap down with the hobby iron. 8. Cover the other side the same way. 9.
  • Page 15: Final Assembly

    Wing Covering 1. Lightly sand the trailing edge, end ribs, the rib at the polydihedral break if applicable, and the center ribs. 2. We will cover one section at a time so if you built the dihedral wing, you will have a total of four sections –...
  • Page 16 drop of thin CA. Ensure that the locking arm is in place – opposite the L bend. See fig 19. You can choose to pull the pushrods in to the fuselage using the black wire tie. Adjust the length of the pushrods after pulling them in to the fuselage and don’t tighten the wire tie to the point where the pushrods bind against the fuselage.
  • Page 17 The center of gravity (CG) should be directly under to ¼” behind the wing spar. With the battery installed, place a finger on each side of the fuselage just behind the spar and lift the DuskStik. It should balance there. If not, adjust the battery forward or backwards till the CG is correct.

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