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7.6f Do not omit the screw in base of lower leg, where
necessary
8
Fork legs: dismantling, examination and renovation -
CG125 K1. B, C and E models
1
The forks fitted to all later models differ in having longer
fork springs that are much smaller in diameter so that they fit
inside the fork stanchions. The metal shrouds of the early forks
are replaced by a small rubber dust seal leaving the surface of
the stanchion exposed.
2
The more exposed and thus unprotected design of these
forks means that far greater attention must be paid to the
condition of the stanchion surfaces. At regular intervals lift the
dust seal from each lower leg and wipe away any accumulated
dirt from its sealing lips and from above the oil seal; if the oil
seal is leaking it must be renewed. Check the surface of the
stanchion, looking for scratches or chips in the plating. These
should be repaired by cleaning and degreasing so that they can
be filled with Araldite or similar. Be careful to smooth down the
filler, once it has set hard, to restore the original contour. If this
sort of damage occurs repeatedly, fit a pair of gaiters to cover
the stanchions.
3
To dismantle the legs remove the top bolt and drain plug
from each and allow the oil to drain, then slide the dust seal off
the lower leg and remove the circlip and backing ring from
above the oil seal.
4
Clamp each lower leg by the spindle lug in a vice with
padded jaws and sharply pull the stanchion out of the lower leg,
using the headed top bush to displace the oil seal. Withdraw the
spring from inside the stanchion, noting that it is fitted with its
close-pitched coils at the top.
5
Be very careful to wash all traces of dirt and oil from the
inside of the fork lower leg. Apart from the fact that the spring
seat cannot be removed from inside the lower leg, the
remainder of the overhaul procedure is exactly the same as that
given in Section 7.
6
On reassembly, note that the oil seal retaining circlip should
be renewed as a matter of course whenever it is disturbed, and
that it should be fitted with its sharp-edged surface upwards.
Pack grease above the oil seal as additional protection before
pressing the dust seal firmly into place.
9
Refitting the forks in the frame
1
If it has been necessary to remove the fork assembly com-
pletely from the frame, refitting is accomplished by following
Chapter 4 Frame and forks
the dismantling procedure in reverse. Check that none of the
balls are misplaced whilst the steering head stem is passed
through the head set. It has been known for a ball to be
displaced, drop down and wear a groove or even jam the steer-
ing, so be extremely careful in this respect.
2
Take particular care when adjusting the steering head bear-
ings; the lockring should be locked in place with the steering
stem nut sufficiently to remove all the slack, but not tight
otherwise damage to the cups or ball bearings will occur. When
adjusted, lightly flick the handlebars with the finger. They
should drop easily from side to side, but if the fork legs are held
and pulled forwards and backwards no play should be felt.
Tighten the steering stem nut to a torque setting of 6.0 - 9.0
kgf m (43 - 65 Ibf ft) and re-check the bearing adjustment.
3
Difficulty may be experienced in raising the fork stanchions
so that the end locates in the top yoke. If a stanchion puller is
not available use a piece of wooden dowel with a tapered end,
force it in the thread and use it to pull the stanchion into place.
4
Before refitting the top fork bolts do not forget to replace
the oil, the quantity required is shown in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter. Do not forget to tighten the drain plug
first to a torque setting of 0.3 - 0.6 kgf m (2 - 4 Ibt ft). Note that
the fork leg with the brake plate location fits on the left-hand
side of the machine. Where necessary attach the lower shroud
and the headlamp bracket whilst sliding the stanchion into
place.
5
Refit the front mudguard, headlamp, speedometer and
handlebars; note that the handlebar punch marks should be
aligned with the edge of the top yoke mounting, that the clamps
should be installed with their punch-marked ends to the rear
and that the clamp bolts should be tightened to a torque setting
of 0.9 - 1.1 kgf m (6.5 - 8 Ibf ft). Reconnect the cables and
wiring.
6
When replacing the front wheel, first make sure that the
speedometer drive pegs inside the front hub have not ridden up
out of their location. After checking this, insert the wheel
spindle (not forgetting the spacer on the opposite side to the
brake; do not fail to check the brake location). The peg aligns
with the slot on the outside of the brake plate. Push through the
spindle and place on the washer and the nut. Tighten the nut to
a torque setting of 3.5 - 5.0 kgf m (25 - 36 Ibf ft) and fit a new
split pin. Fit and adjust the brake cable, also the speedometer
drive cable.
7
When everything is in place, bounce the forks a few times
so that they settle into their natural position. Tighten the lower
yoke pinch bolts to a torque setting of 2.0 - 3.0 kgf m (14.5 -
22 Ibf ft) and the fork top bolts to a torque setting of 3.0 - 4.0
kgf m (22 - 29 Ibf ft).
9.2 Adjust steering head races carefully
73
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