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21 Front fork legs: reassembly
1
On reassembly, all components should have been checked
for wear and renewed as necessary and should be completely
clean and dry.
2
Clamp the lower leg vertically in a vice by its spindle lug.
Coat the inner and outer diameters of the new seal with the
recommended fork oil and push the seal squarely into the bore
of the fork lower leg by hand. Ensure that the seal is fitted
squarely, then tap it fully into position, using a hammer and a
suitably sized drift such as a socket spanner, which should bear
only on the seal's hard outer edge. Tap the seal into the bore of
the lower leg just enough to expose the circlip groove. Refit the
retaining circlip securely in its groove. Refit the damper rod
assembly to the stanchion, pushing it down with the spring or
wooden dowel, then place the damper rod seat over the damper
rod end, using a smear of grease to stick it in place. Smear the
sliding surface of the stanchion with a light coating of fork oil
and carefully insert the stanchion into the lower leg, taking
great care not to damage the sealing lips of the oil seal. Check
that the threads of the damper rod bolt are clean and dry, apply
a few drops of thread locking compound and fit the damper rod
bolt. Do not forget the sealing washer fitted under the head of
the bolt. Tighten the bolt only partially at first, using an Allen
key of suitable size. Maintain pressure on the head of the
damper rod and push the stanchion firmly as far down into the
lower leg as possible to centralise the damper rod in the
stanchion. The damper rod bolt can then be tightened to the
specified torque setting and the dowel or spring removed. Pack
grease above the seal for additional protection and press the
dust seal firmly into place.
3
Refill the fork leg with the correct amount of the specified
type of fork oil, then refit the spring with its closer-pitched coils
to damper rod ...
as stanchion is refitted to lower leg
Chapter 7 The 1985 on models
at the top. Refit the fork leg top bolt; tighten it to its specified
torque setting when the stanchion is held either in a vice with
padded jaws or in the machine's fork yokes.
22 Front fork legs: refitting
1
On refitting, check that the upper length of each stanchion
is clean and polished, and that all traces of dirt and corrosion
have been removed. Apply a thin smear of grease to ease the
passage of the stanchion through the yokes and to prevent
corrosion. When the,stanchion is in position, ie with its top end
flush with the upper surface of the top yoke so that the fork top
bolt is standing proud, tighten the pinch bolts just enough to
retain the leg. Unless tightened prior to inserting the legs in the
yokes, tighten the fork top bolts to the specified torque setting.
2
Refit the mudguard and tighten lightly the mounting bolts;
check that in fully tightening these bolts the fork lower legs are
not twisted out of line or stressed in any way.
3
Refit the front wheel but before final tightening of the
various fasteners, push the machine off its stand and apply the
front brake, then bounce the machine a few times to settle the
front suspension components. Tighten first the front wheel
spindle nut to the specified torque setting and then tighten the
mudguard mounting bolts followed by the bottom and top yoke
pinch bolts to the specified torque setting. It is essential to
tighten the fasteners from the wheel spindle upwards so that
the front forks are clamped securely but without stress.
4
Complete the refitting of the front wheel, then adjust the
front brake and check that the front wheel is free to rotate, that
the speedometer functions correctly, and that the front brake
and front forks are working efficiently before taking the machine
out on the road. Do not forget to refit the bottom yoke cover
and reflectors.
into top of stanchion
21.3a Fork springs are refitted with
closer-pitched coils at the top
stanchion lower end, fit damper rod seat
21.3b Refill fork leg with exactly the
correct amount of oil
•
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