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Checking the condition of the contact breaker points
The contact breaker assembly can be viewed through one
of the generator rotor slots; turn the rotor until the points open.
Use a small screwdriver to push the moving point open against
its spring. Examine the point contact faces. If they are burnt or
pitted, remove the points for cleaning or renewal, see Chapter
3.4. Light surface deposits can be removed with crocus paper or
a piece of stiff card.
If the contact faces are badly burnt or pitted, or if the
moving contact fibre heel shows signs of wear or damage,
renew the assembly. It is essential that the points are in good
condition if the ignition timing is to be correct; use only genuine
Honda parts when renewing. If the faces are only mildly
marked, clean them using an oilstone or fine emery but be
careful to keep them square. If it is necessary to separate the
moving contact from the fixed one, carefully remove the circlip
fitted to the pivot post and note carefully the arrangement of
washers at both the pivot post and spring blade fixing. On
reassembly, the moving contact must be able to move freely;
apply a smear of grease to the pivot post. Note also that the low
tension lead terminal and the moving contact spring blade must
be connected to each other via the small bolt, but that both
must be completely insulated from the fixed contact. The engine
will not run if a short-circuit occurs at this point.
Refit the points to the stator plate and the rotor to the
crankshaft. Tighten the rotor nut to a torque setting of 4.0 - 5.0
kgf m (29 - 36 Ibf ft), then apply a few drops of oil to the cam
lubricating wick.
Checking the ignition timing
Disconnect the generator wiring at the connector block
joining it to the main wiring loom and identify the black or
black/white wire leading to the points. The best way of
establishing exactly when the points open is to use either a
multimeter set to its most sensitive resistance scale, or a
battery and bulb test circuit; refer to Chapter 3 for details. The
meter needle will flicker to indicate increased resistance as the
points open, or the bulb (which will be lit when the points are
closed) will glow dimmer; note that a high-wattage bulb must
be used to make this more obvious to the eye.
Turn the rotor anticlockwise until the meter needle deflects
(or the bulb dims); at this point the rotor 'F' mark should align
exactly with the raised index mark on the stator plate.
The setting is adjusted by opening or closing the points gap
to advance or retard respectively the ignition timing. Repeat the
procedure to check that the timing is now correct.
When the timing is correct, measure very carefully the
points gap, to ensure that the dwell angle is correct for the
maximum spark intensity. If the gap is found to be outside the
permitted tolerance the contact breaker points are excessively
worn and must be renewed.
Fit a new set of contact breaker points; note that it is
essential that only genuine Honda points are used. Refit the
rotor and set the points gap to exactly 0.35 mm (0.014 in), then
Set clearance so that the feeler gauge
is a sliding fit
Routine maintenance
repeat the procedure given above. The ignition timing should be
correct.
most accurate means of setting the ignition timing. In practice
there is no need to repeat the full procedure at every service
interval. Instead it is sufficient to check that the points gap is
within tolerances.
can be checked. Connect the light following its manufacturer's
instructions, then start the engine and allow it to idle. At idle
speed the 'F mark should align with the raised index mark; at
just above idle speed the mark should appear to move as the
advance begins until at 3000 rpm the two parallel lines of the
full advance mark are aligned with the index mark. If the
movement is stiff and jerky, or if the advance range is restricted,
the rotor must be removed so that the ATU can be dismantled
for cleaning and greasing.
5
lubricated, using light machine oil. This can be done by either
disconnecting the cable upper end and fitting a proprietary
cable oiler to pump oil through, or by removing the cable from
the machine and hanging it up overnight so that oil can drain
through the cable from a small funnel attached to its upper end.
Ensure that the cables are correctly routed and adjusted on
refitting. Grease the speedometer drive cable as described in
Chapter 4.17.
them to prevent wear or corrosion. Where necessary, dismantle
and clean any moving part which may have become stiff in
operation. Similarly clean, check and grease the stand pivots
and ensure that the return spring holds the stand securely.
screws, retightening them as necessary.
lamp switches with WD40 or a similar water dispersant
lubricant.
6
Chapter 7 for (T)PFC carburettors) for full details check that the
petrol tank, tap, and feed pipe are in good condition and
securely fastened with no leaks. Check also that the choke
operates correctly. If rough running of the engine has
developed, some adjustment of the carburettor pilot setting and
tickover speed
adjustments unless they are obviously required; there is little to
be gained by unwarranted attention to the carburettor.
plug, allowing a small quantity of petrol to flush through. If large
amounts of dirt or water are found in the petrol, the system
components must be drained and cleaned out.
necessary, the throttle cable free play can be checked. Open
" F " mark should align just as points
separate
Note: The above procedure is described in full as it is the
General checks and lubrication
At regular intervals the control cables must be thoroughly
Check all pivots and control levers, cleaning and lubricating
Check around the machine, looking for. loose nuts, bolts or
It is advisable to lubricate the handlebar switches and stop
Check the fuel system
Referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 (or of
may be
required.
Switch on the petrol tap and unscrew the float bowl drain
Once the carburettor has been checked and reset if
Contact breaker gap is measured
via aperture
11
Do not make these
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