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17 Condenser: general
1
Note that while the condenser is mounted as described in
Chapter 3, it is no longer listed as a separate item and can only
be purchased (as a genuine Honda replacement part) as part of
the ignition HT coil assembly.
2
Owners are therefore advised to find a good Honda Service
Agent who will find a suitable separate replacement from his
stocks and fit it to the coil.
18 Handlebar: mountings
When installing the handlebars, align the handlebar punch
marks with the upper edge of the top yoke mounting, then fit
the clamps with their punch-marked ends to the front. Tighten
the front clamp bolts first, to the specified torque setting, then
tighten the rear clamp bolts, also to the specified setting. Do
not try and overtighten the bolts to close the gap between the
clamp rear ends and the top yoke.
20.2 Unscrew damper rod Allen screw
to release stanchion from lower leg
Chapter 7 The 1985 on models
1
under the crankcase to prevent it toppling when the front wheel
is withdrawn. Remove the front wheel and mudguard, unscrew
the two reflectors from the bottom yoke cover and remove the
two cover mounting bolts to release the cover. Slacken the fork
leg top bolts while the legs are still clamped in the yokes.
2
withdraw each leg by pulling it downwards out of the yokes. If
corrosion obstructs removal of the leg, apply a liberal quantity
of penetrating fluid, allow time for it to work, then release the
leg by rotating it in the yoke as it is pulled downwards. In
extermely stubborn cases, tap smartly on the top of each bolt
using a hammer and a wooden drift; take great care not to
damage the bolts. Alternatively, if care is used it is permissible
to open up the split clamp of each yoke slightly by removing the
pinch bolt and working the flat blade of a screwdriver into the
clamp. Exercise extreme caution when doing this, as the clamps
can be overstressed and broken easily.
20 Front fork legs: dismantling and overhaul
1
the components of each leg in separate, clearly marked con-
tainers, so that there is no risk of exchanging components, thus
promoting undue wear.
2
each lower leg. If the damper rod is not locked, in this case by
the pressure of the fork spring, it will rotate with the bolt. Tap
smartly on the bolt head with a hammer and a suitable drift,
then unscrew it. If it breaks free and can be unscrewed do not
remove it completely at this stage; if it breaks free but merely
rotates with the rod try compressing the fork leg against a solid
object to apply more spring pressure. If all else fails proceed
with the dismantling and use the more positive method of
damper rod locking described below.
3
still in the machine, as described in the previous Section, clamp
the stanchion upper end in a vice using padded jaw covers to
prevent scratching. Unscrew the bolt carefully; place a thickly-
wadded piece of rag over the bolt before it is finally removed.
The bolts are under some pressure from the fork spring and may
be ejected with considerable force; use firm hand pressure to
counter this until the bolt threads are released.
4
was fitted. Invert the leg over a container and tip out the fork oil;
depress the leg slowly to expel as much oil as possible. Carefully
prise the dust seal off the lower leg and use a pointed
instrument to displace the wire circlip.
20.4a Remove dust seal from lower
leg ...
Position the machine on its centre stand and support it
Slacken fully both top and bottom yoke pinch bolts and
Dismantle and rebuild the fork legs separately, and store
First slacken the damper rod Allen bolt at the bottom of
Remove the fork top bolt. If this was not slackened while
Remove the fork spring noting carefully which way up it
20.4b ... and displace circlip to permit
removal of fork oil seal
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