Sewing Knits - Bernina Virtuosa 153 Instruction Manual & Sewing Manual

Sewing knits

Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Important information
Perfect needle
· blunt needles can damage knits
Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary
· the needle point slides between the fibers
Fine sewing thread
· heavy threads can damage knits and cause holes when
the garment is washed
Darning thread for basting
· it's easier to remove when oversewn
Sewing test, when necessary
· the elasticity of modern fabrics varies greatly
· adjust basic settings to suit the fabric; the seam should
be as stretchy as the fabric
· for greater elasticity:
use a shorter stitch length and a wider stitch width
(only one of these adjustments may be necessary)
Presser foot pressure
· soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat;
the machine must still feed the fabric properly
Honeycomb No. 14 virtuosa 153 /No. 16 virtuosa 163
universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Ribbing with visible seam
for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
· press 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side
Sewing
· sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge
· trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
Balance/corrections
· Honeycomb stitch is not closed
bring stitch together
= adjust balance – (subtract space between stitches)
open out stitch
= adjust balance + (add space to stitches)
TIP
Needle stop down
· needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the
ribbing
Presser foot pressure
· reduce pressure if hem stretches
Sewing knits
15