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1A- 1 2 BODY
Look for "witness bead" of excess adhesive
around panel edges as assurance that adhesive
has completely "wetted" the glue line area .
Then, remove excessive squeeze-out on ex-
terior within one hour after application. Use a
plastic tool or a wooden tongue depressor for
removal . Any excess remaining after this can
be wiped off with a clean cloth dampened with
white gasoline .
(Be sure to use cautions as
appropriate for flammable liquids .)
It is
important that excess adhesive be removed
before curing takes place and before pop-
rivets or clamps are removed.
Discard all
partially used containers of mixed primer and
adhesive.
CURING
This adhesive must cure for 24 hours at
room temperature (65-85 0F .) (18-29 0C.) before
any structural work or movement of the
vehicle is permitted .
This will assure maxi-
mum bonding of the adhesive . After 24 hours
the rivet heads may be ground off and the
holes filled with a body putty. Proceed with
final finishing work.
RUB RAIL
1976 vehicles are equipped with a new body
rub rail which is installed the length of the
vehicle at the belt line .
The rub rail is bonded to the belt rail with
double-backed
pressure-sensitive'
adhesive
tape . In addition, retaining screws are used at
the end of each individual strip of rub rail and
at the front and rear side marker lamps to hold
the lamps and the rub rail strips securely in
place.
Rub rails may be replaced or repaired if
necessary. On-vehicle repair may include : (1)
application of adhesive to a small area directly
behind rub rail where pressure-sensitive tape is
not secure, or (2) addition of fasteners to
secure a larger piece or pieces of the rub rail
which are not adhering to the body.
A
combination of adhesive and fasteners may be
necessary
in
certain repair situations .
If
adhesive
is required, use GM#1051910
or
equivalent .
Be sure to follow all manufac-
turer's safety precautions (included with ad-
hesive package).
If additional fasteners are
required, use a sheet metal screw to fasten rub
rail to belt rail . Use GM# 2006755 screw and
washer assembly (or equivalent), or a phos-
phate coated (black) flat or oval headed self
tapping screw .
Fasteners should be approxi-
mately .75" long.
RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT
If rub rail has been badly damaged and needs
replacement, perform the following:
REMOVAL
1. Remove screws from ends of damaged
rub rail pieces .
If side marker lamp is
damaged, remove screws (2) holding marker
lamp into rub rail .
Pull lamp forward and
disconnect bulb socket from lamp. Take lamp
out .
2. With all retaining screws removed, pull
rub rail off of vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE : Do not clean surface to be bonded or
peel off adhesive tape backing from rub rail
until just prior to installation of rub rail . If
marker lamp
was damaged,
install new
marker lamp assembly . Connect bulb socket
and fasten two retaining screws .
When
the
bonding
operation
is
to
be
performed; the rub rail and the bondin% sur-
face should be at a temperature of 70
to
90 0E (21 .1 0 to 32 .2 ° C).
If practical, it is
desirable to lay the new rub rail out flat in the
same environment as the vehicle for 24 hours
prior to installation. This will assure tempera-
ture equilibrium between the replacement part
and the application area.
It will also help to
eliminate problems of shrinkage and curling .
Clean the bonding surface on the vehicle
thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or equiva-
lent . Dry the surface with a clean (lint-free)
cloth.
It is important that bonding surface
remain clean and oil-free . Bond will not hold
if surface contamination exists .
After cleaning ; when ready to install rub
rail, peel off backing paper. Line the strip up
evenly with one edge of the aluminum belt
rail . Do not touch the surface with hands and
do not allow the tape backing to come into
contact with dirt or foreign matter . Apply the
rub rail with a uniform pressure of 20 lbs .
minimum to seal the adhesive tape to the
bonding surface .
Secure rub rail pieces with
screws where called for.
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