No case is provided with this kit, the assembler must provide their own case. The completed PCB (ITS1A Clock Kit) generates voltage differences of up to 450V between certain parts of the PCB. THESE VOLTAGES MAY BE LETHAL. Therefore assembly should only be undertaken by people qualified to work with these voltages, and who can guarantee that the completed product meets all local safety requirements and certifications during operation.
ITS1A CLOCK Start by soldering D1, Then D2-D13 as shown in the picture below. Use some tape to hold them all in place while you do it. Note that the diode direction alternates as in the picture below. It is important you get this right! Follow up with D14-D17 (again, note that the polarity alternates), and finally D18.
ITS1A CLOCK Solder in J3 – the Mini USB socket. Not all the pins need to be soldered – there is no data connection. This should go on the top side of the board like this: Ceramic Capacitors Solder in the ceramic capacitors C1, C19, C22 and C23.
ITS1A CLOCK Transistors Solder in Q1 and Q2. Bend the leads beforehand to match the hole layout on the board. Make sure you put the right transistor in the right holes! Programming Header If you think you might want to program the clock with the ESP-01 in place, solder in the programming header J2.
ITS1A CLOCK Inductor Solder in L1, the inductor. Electrolytic Capacitors Electrolytic capacitors are polarized. The negative lead must go in the negative hole and the positive lead in the positive hole. The capacitors have a white stripe on the negative side, this should be lined up with the white marking on the PCB footprint –...
ITS1A CLOCK It is beyond the scope of this document to suggest ways of troubleshooting any problems. Plug a Mini USB cable into the USB socket on the PCB. Plug the other end into a USB power supply. Unplug it if you see smoke! Test the voltages in the following order.
ITS1A CLOCK Display Header and Connector This is a picture of the front of the display board. This is the side the tubes will be visible from. Connectors It connects at right-angles to the main board. A 1x20 socket is soldered to the main board, and a 20-pin right-angled header is soldered to the display board.
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ITS1A CLOCK 2. Insert the 1x20 socket into the main board, but do not solder it in place: 3. Insert the 1x20 right-angled header in to the display board as in the picture below, but do not solder (note that this is the back of the display board).
ITS1A CLOCK 5. Secure the display board to the brackets with the nuts and bolts provide. 6. Solder the socket to the main board – making sure it is flush with the board. 7. Solder the right-angled header to the display board.
I didn’t have to straighten the leads on the tube all the way up to the glass. In fact, I have heard reports that the leads of ITS1A/B tubes can sometimes snap off at or near the glass, so you should avoid applying too much force in that vicinity anyway.
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ITS1A CLOCK Once you have all the leads inserted, you will notice that the tube is quite firmly held in place, however line up the tube so that that it is sitting roughly square, then solder one of the leads.
ITS1A CLOCK Next repeat this sequence at the other end of the display board. Now insert all of the rest of the tubes, leaving them unsoldered. Now you will want to try and get them as square as you can. This will take some trial and error. Here is one suggested sequence: 1.
ITS1A CLOCK comfortable with to do this. Make sure the chip is oriented correctly! The notch should be next to the 1x20 socket that the display board plugs in to – it is circled in the next picture. Insert the ESP-01. Either solder it in place or insert it into the socket you soldered earlier.
ITS1A CLOCK If segments stay on when they should go off, you can increase the Reset Pulse Length in the Extra config screen. Generally you will want this value to be as low as possible as that will reduce flicker, but you also...
ITS1A CLOCK Configuration The clock is configured via a web browser, either from the captive portal (which is displayed when you connect to the clock’s access point), or by connecting to http://its1a.local/ once you have connected the clock to a router. Some browsers/routers don’t understand the .local domain. For these you will need the IP address.
ITS1A CLOCK If there is no preset menu visible, it is because the settings on that screen affect all presets, for example the Alexa config screen. Alexa You can control the clock from Alexa. You have to make Alexa discover devices while the clock is turned on, literally say ‘Alexa, discover my devices’.
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ITS1A CLOCK There are solder points marked GND, 3V3 and TX. TX should be wired to data-in on the first neopixel, then you daisy-chain the rest together, connecting data-out to data-in. The software is configured to drive up to 10 neopixels in groups of 6 and 4, so you can have underlighting as well as backlighting.
ITS1A CLOCK Motion Sensor Another option: The software includes support for a motion sensor. It should be powered by 5V and have a 3V3 signal output. A value of 3V3 should indicate that motion has been detected. Attach the signal output to the pin (or hole) marked RX on the programming header at the back. Attach 0V/ground to any convenient GND point on the board.
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