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WARNING: Olympia Splendid shall not be held liable for any underestimates made in the structural consistency of the wall or the
anchoring materials used by the installer. As such pay close attention when mounting the units to avoid the potential for serious injury to
people or damage to property if carried out incorrectly.
When installing heat pump models, if no condensate line was built into the wall, it will be necessary to drill a hole through the wall as shown
on the template.
2.3.3
Preparing the condensate discharge
For heat pumps connect the unit to the condensate discharge pipe (supplied) by coupling it with the specific vent (fig. 6 ref. A) on the back of
the unit (remove cap B). When the max level is reached, a solenoid valve ensures the condensate will flow out from the internal tray. For
AC units connect the condensate discharge pipe if you intend running the unit at low outdoor temperatures below 73ºF. Since condensate
drains by gravity, there must be a minimum slope of at least 3% at every point of the discharge line. Use a rigid or flexible tube having an
inside diameter of at least 5/8". If the line empties into a sewerage system, assuming local and/or national codes allow the practice, install a
trap before the point in which the pipe reaches the main discharge, at least12" below the inlet from the unit (fig. 6).
If the drainpipe drains into a vessel (tank or other container), this container should not be sealed, and the drainpipe should not remain
immersed in the water (see fig. 7). The hole through which the condensate pipe passes should always slope towards the outside (see fig.
8). The exact position in which to place the pipe inlet, as compared to the unit, is shown on the drilling template.
CAUTION:
Make certain the condensate disposed outside does not damage or disturb persons or property. During cold weather when the ambient
temperature drops below 32ºF the condensate may cause sheets of ice to form. When the condensate lines are installed ensure you do not
compress or kink the rubber hose.
2.3.4
Assembly of the air ducts and external grids
After having drilled the holes, insert the plastic sheet supplied with the conditioner into them. Since the sheet was made for 8" holes, the
installer will have to trim 5.1" from the long side of the sheet if using 6.5" holes. The length of the sheets must be 2.5" less than the thickness
of the wall. Roll the sheet and insert it into the hole (fig. 9). Pay attention to the splicing line (fig. 9 ref. A) which must always face
upwards. To position the external grids, proceed as follows:
Apply the seal (fig. 10, ref. B) to the wall flange (fig. 10, ref. A), ensuring it lines up with the outer edge of the flange as indicated in the
figure.
Fix the two flanges using 2 pegs having a diameter of 1/4" and check that the two fixing holes are horizontal.
Fit the small eyelet of the spring, with the long stem, on the cap pin, on both components. (fig. 11)
Insert the two caps (with spring), on the front part of the external grid, on its two housings, pulling until it clicks (fig. 12) and couple
the two chains to the large eyelet of the spring.
Using one hand, grip the two chains connected to the grid.
Bend the external grids back, gripping them with your free hand where they bend and insert your fingers inside the single fins (fig. 13).
Insert your arm into the pipe until the grid protrudes completely outwards. Reopen the grid, being careful to keep your fingers inside
the fins.
Turn the grid until the fins are fully horizontal and tilted downwards.
Pull the chain, tensioning the spring, couple the chain ring to the pin of the inner flange through which the pipes pass (fig. 14).
Use hand shears to cut off any excess chain links.
WARNING:
Olympia Splendid recommends using the supplied grids, or grids with similar characteristics.
2.3.5
Preparing the holes on the unit
The unit was built to be paired with 6.5" pipes so to ensure the best performance and lowest noise level, you should use the 8" holes. If using
the 8" pipes use a cutter to punch an opening on the rear cover and remove the covering part (fig.15 ref. A).
2.3.6
Fitting the unit on the bracket
After ensuring the mounting bracket is properly anchored to the wall and that all required preparatory work has been carried out for the
electrical connections and/or the condensate drainage the unit can be fixed to the wall. Lift it by holding it from the sides of the lower base
(see fig. 16). To facilitate the operation of fastening it to the bracket, tilt it slightly toward you. To make the electrical connection and fasten
the drainpipe, place a wedge between the air conditioner and the wall (see fig. 16).
When you have finished, inspect carefully to make sure there are no open sections at the back of the unit. The insulating gasket must fit firmly
against the wall, particularly in the zone where air enters and leaves the unit.
2.3.7
Electric hook-up
The appliance is fitted with a power cord with plug and can simply be plugged into a near-by 120v receptacle.
Before energizing the unit ensure that:
The supply voltage and frequency match those shown on the unit's data plate.
Confirm the supplied power has a proper earth ground.
If the factory cord is not long enough any additional length
The unit must be powered through a wall mounted receptacle compatible with the supplied plug.
WARNING: If the supply cord is damaged it may not be repaired and must be replaced with one of equal rating as supplied by the
manufacturer. Always use on a single outlet circuit only.
12
must be a minimum of 14 AWG).
2
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