Advertisement
Composite-ARF Yak 55 (2.1m/83")
Make some 'handles' from strong
tape (see photo) to allow you to
'pull' the canopy in position while
you fix it into position. With the
canopy frame bolted to the fuse-
lage, tack the canopy into posi-
tion with a couple of very small
drops of 'odourless' CA, at the
back and front lower corners -
making sure that the canopy is
firmly pulled up into position while
doing this.
When the canopy is tacked into
the frame, and it cannot twist any
more, you can carefully remove
the compete canopy frame and
secure the inside edge of the
clear canopy with a small bead of
slow epoxy and microballoons.
Alternatively you can use a spe-
cialist canopy glue that dries clear
and bonds well the the clear plas-
tic. We have used the ZAP
'Formula 560' canopy glue with
good success, and any drips or
drops can be cleaned up with
water before it cures.
Whichever method you chose,
make sure to bolt the canopy
frame in it's final position on the
fuselage while the canopy glue
dries to ensure that it cannot
deform.
Cowling
Attaching the 1 piece cowling is easy, as it is
already cut and trimmed at the factory. We sug-
gest that you fit this now, and make any cutouts,
cooling and access slots after you fit the motor.
The cowl is secured to the fuselage with four M3
x 12mm bolts, and four T-nuts that are glued to
the inside of the horizontal flange on the fuse-
lage. Additionally you should add 2 small pheno-
lic tongues at the back lower corners of the fuse-
lage lip to maintain alignment, and prevent any
rubbing or damage due to vibration (see photo).
A small strip of phenolic sheet (15 x 40mm) is
(above) Completed canopy frame, also showing optional
central alignment tabs.
(below) Strong tape 'handles' are used to pull the clear
canopy into position whilst 'tacking' in place.
The cowl is secured with four M3 x 12mm
bolts, washers and T-nuts.
13
techsupport@composite-arf.com
Advertisement
