Tire And Tube; Wheel Rims And Spokes - Honda CB350 Repair Manual

138 CHASSIS
should be installed first. Then install
and tighten the retainer, spacer tube,
and the other bearing.
4. Replace all of the oil seals with new
ones.
TIRE. AND TUBE
Removal and Replacement
1. After removing the wheel from the
motorcycle, take out the valve core, and
remove the valve stem nuts. If a rimlock
is fitted, remove the nut. If the same tire
is to be refitted, mark the direction of ro—
tation and valve stem location.
2. Walk around the tire to break the
tire bead away from the rim. This may be
necessary on high mileage tires.
3. Liberally coat the tire bead (both
sides) with a soapy lubricant such as com—
mercial dishwashing liquid or a soap—
and—water solution.
4. Two or three tire irons are needed.
These should be specifically designed for
the purpose at hand; never use screw—
drivers or any other instrument with
sharp ends.
5. Step on the tire at any spot, and use
the tire irons to lever the tire off the rim
directly opposite the point on which you
are standing.
6. Continue until one bead is off the
rim; pull out the tube. Remove the rim—
lock. Then turn the wheel over, and lever
the other bead off the rim if the tire is to
be replaced.
7. Check the tube for leaks and patch
or replace as needed.
8. Using a steel wire brush, remove
any rust deposits from the rim.
9. Check the tire for condition. Tires
with cuts, damaged beads, etc. should be
replaced.
10. When remounting the tire note the
following: most tires have a small painted
mark on the sidewall; this must be
aligned with the valve stem. Also note
the direction of rotation molded onto the
sidewall. Direction of rotation on some
tires may vary depending on whether the
tire is mounted on the front or rear wheel.
11. Fit the rim band to the rim. After
levering one bead onto the rim, install the
rimlock, insert the tube into the tire;
place the valve stem through the hole in
the rim, and replace the valve stem nut.
Be certain that the tube is not twisted or
pinched.
12. Carefully lever the other bead onto
the rim. Inflate the tube, then check the
aligning mark on the tire. This thin line is
molded into the sidewall and will appear
just above the edge of the rim. Note that
it should be equidistant from the rim all
around the tire. Ifit is not, the tire is not
properly seated on the rim (most likely
due to rust on the rim); this can some—
times be remedied by thoroughly lubri—
cating the rim with a soapylubricant and
temporarily overinflating the tube until
the tire is seated.
WHEEL RIMS AND SPOKES
1. Every few weeks, or more often if
the machine is ridden hard, check the
rims and spokes for general condition.
2. Support the wheels off the ground,
and spin them slowly. Tapping a screw—
driver on the spokes as they go by is one
method of assuring that all of the spokes
are secure. The spokes should emit a
"ping" when struck. Loose spokes will
emit a dull sound. Tighten an occasional
loose spoke by turning the nipple one or
two turns.
CAUTION: Do not turn any nipple
more than two turns. To do so may
allow the end of the spoke to puncture
the tube.
3. If more than one spoke in a given
area of the wheel is loose, the wheel
should be removed and trued. If any
spoke is broken, it should be replaced as
soon as possible, and the rim trued.
4. Assuming that the wheel bearings
are in good condition, rim run—out and
concentricity can be checked with the
wheel mounted on the machine.
With the aid of a pointer securely
mounted wherever convenient so that it
contacts the side of the rim, spin the rim
and notice any run—out (or side move—
ment). This should not exceed 2 mm
(0.08 in.), or the wheel must be removed
and trued.
5. Concentricity may be checked in
much the same manner, only the pointer
should be positioned to measure the up—
and—down movement of the rim. Check
this at both the rim and at the top of the
tire tread. Once again, any reading in
excess of 2 mm (0.08 in.) will necessitate
having the wheel removed and trued.