Icom IC-7000 Manual page 5

Fan Mod - Cool as ice
Contact author: James Hamelin, KC0RSW
READ ALL OF IT BEFORE PREFORMING THE MOD!
Use a baby thermometor ( the electric kind w/ the digitial readout ) and see just how hot
your rig is running before preforming the mod, I know most all of my readings were over
106F then the thermometer errored out as the temp was too high.
Tempurature Measurements were made with a baby-tempurature thermometor ( sorry its
all I had at the time ).
Heres the Proof!
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top - left front 94.6F
top - left rear 103.8F
top - right front N/A (below 85.5F unable to get reading)
top - right rear 92.7F
Right side front 90.6F
Right side rear 91.5F
Left side Front 95.0F
Left side Rear 98.1F
After cw keying for aprox 5 min continous duty the heat generated by the IC-7000 did rise
enough to enable to the temp control circuit. Heres the good news!
Once the temp control circuit kicks in, the fan goes into high-rpm mode!!! Then returns to
'normal' operation with the 2W / 100ohm resistor voltage.
So with this mod, you get a dual speed fan without any additional modifications!!
Forgot to mention, when you goto solder the lead to the red wire of the fan, please place a
rag or something undeneath the area you will be working in ( its pretty tight ) to prevent
any unwanted solder dripping down onto the main board.
When closing everything all up, there is a little pink sticky pad ontop of the cover unit to
access the mars/cap and tvro mod. Place your wire so its right on top of the sticky pad.
Seemed to be the best place for it at the time.
Options, the Red wire from the fan connecter to the main board could be snipped between
the connector and the solder joint to avoid any complications with the temp circuit enabling.
Additionally, the back left of the rig, still feels warm to the touch but its more of a luke-
warm, instead of what it was previously which was excessivly hot. The back right, front left
and front right all feel cool to the touch.
Im sure there are better ways of preforming this modification, although just stealing 0.14A
from the 12v+ DC on the tuner port seemed to make the most sense, since an LDG Tuner
only uses 300mA when in operation.
Although I do not know how this will affect the autotuner as I do not have one, I am unable