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INSTRUCTIONS READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS MODEL. WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! The model you will build from this kit is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage.
DIE PATTERNS Do not punch out die-cut parts until you are ready to use them! SPECFOl 2 PER KIT BALSA 3/32 X 3 1/4 X 38 1/2 SPECF06 1 PER KIT SPECF02 2 PER KIT BALSA 1/8 X 8 7/8 BALSA 1/16 X 3 1/4 X 23 7/8...
RADIO - A Radio having at least 2 channels is required to We would like to take this chance to thank you for control the SPECTRA (a third channel is required for throttle purchasing the Great Planes SPECTRA Electric Sailplane. It control).
Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 1/4" eral nice folding props and we have found the model #174 Sealing Iron 8 x 4 folding prop to work well on the SPECTRA with the GOLDFIRE motor. The spinner may have to be carved out Heat Gun slightly to clear a folding prop.
NOTE: Because there are cure times but we will only need 30 minute epoxy. several options to consider when building the SPECTRA, you should read the instruction book through before building and then go back and cross off the steps you won't AN IMPORTANT TIP - Glue should never be use to build your model.
D 5. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of the rudder (this will help to maintain symmetry when sand- D 2. Using the plan as a guide, cut pieces of 3/16" x 3/8" ing). balsa (from the 30" sticks, SPRTS02) to make the Rudder and Fin Framework.
D 5. Tape the elevator to the stab using masking tape and sand the leading edge of the stab, the stab tips and the elevator tips to a smooth rounded shape. The tips of the elevator should blend in nicely with the stab tips. D 1.
WING ASSEMBLY A DECISION YOU SHOULD MAKE NOW... "WING CONFIGURATION" The SPECTRA kit has two different wing options: a two- D 2. Draw accurate centerlines down the trailing edge of piece wing or a one-piece wing. The two-piece wing is the the stab and the fin.
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D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and cover NOTE: The spars may be cut slightly too long. The excess the wing drawing with waxed paper. NOTE: If your work will be cut off later. space is limited, you may cut the wing drawings apart from T-Pins the rest of the plans.
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the square end of the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular DD 12. Locate the 1/16" Balsa Die-Cut Shear Web to the work surface. Sheet (SPRTW07) and notice that all of the shear webs are not the same. The webs between the stamped number 2's are for use on the inner panel.
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but be careful not to get any excess glue inside the box formed by these braces, or the wing joiner will not fit inside. Also test the size of the joiner box with the joiner lamination while the glue is curing. Be careful: don't glue the joiner lamination. sheet and set it aside for the next step.
with a thick CA at the spar joint and a drop of thin CA at the trailing edge joint. Use the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular. DD 4. Trial fit the top 1/8" x 5/16" x 15-1/8" Basswood Outer Spar in place by carefully pressing the spar into the notches until it is flush with the top of the ribs.
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NOTE TAPER OF WEBS W9-W10 W8-W9 W7-W8 W6-W7 W5-W6 W4-W5 DD 8. Glue the webs into their respective places using thick CA. The thinnest end of each web goes towards the tip of the panel. DD 11. Carve and sand the wing tip to blend with rib W10. Be careful not to change the shape of W10 while sanding the DD 9.
JOIN THE INNER AND OUTER WING correct angle. Sand any ends if needed to make everything fit well. The photo for this step is below. PANELS You'll need the following parts: SPRTW06 1/32" Plywood Polyhedral Braces SPRTW08 1/8" Plywood Clamps and Gauges DD 4.
D 1. We have included a "high strength" aluminum wing up the other panel 4" (at the bottom of rib W3). Use the joiner blade in this kit. If you are going to build your Spectra dihedral gauge next to the last W2 rib to achieve the correct angle.
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the Dihedral Braces and the Leading Edge Brace from the die-cut sheets SPRTW04 and SPRTW05. Test fit all of the pieces in place and sand them if necessary to make them fit nicely. The wing joiner laminations are installed between the spars and are sandwiched in place by the dihedral braces.
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D 14. Press the sheeting into place and trim it flush with the back edge of the spar using a modeling knife and straight- edge. D 17. Use the remaining 1/16" balsa sheeting to sheet the top inboard center section out past rib W1B as shown in the photo.
as shown on the plans and glue them in place on top of each holes, about 1/2" apart, where the black dots are in the photo trailing edge. They should be oriented so the unsanded edge and apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to each hole. The thin is flush with the back of the trailing edge and they should be C/A will soak into the wood and provide a good bond.
FRAME-UP THE FUSELAGE Install former F4 and press the sides into place. Use rubber bands near formers F4 and F5 to hold everything together and apply thin C/A around formers F3, F4 and F5. D 1. Lay a piece of waxed paper over the FUSELAGE TOP VIEW.
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Top Nose Block (SPECF15). Make sure both pieces are flat against the work surface, as shown in the photo, when gluing. D 8. Trial fit Former FIB (SPECF05) in place and sand if necessary to make the cutout in it line up with the cutout in former F1A.
D 18. Apply a small bead of thick CA along all previously glued joints to help reinforce the joints. Be careful though and don't use more glue than is actually needed. D 19. Chamfer (slightly round) the ends of the 1/4" x 3-1/ 2"...
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Canopy Front (SPECF05) to the canopy base (with a drop of Test the temperature with a scrap cut from the canopy. The thick CA on each side). The canopy front should be held warmer the water and the longer you leave the canopy in the against the canopy hold down plate (with the indented "dot"...
back of the canopy compartment as shown in the photo. This is the Canopy Aligner. Lift the aligner so that it is slightly above the sides. Apply a small drop of thick CA to the middle of the aligner and carefully slide the canopy into place. Push down on the canopy to force the aligner against the canopy base (with the canopy aligned with the fuselage sides) and hold it until the glue has cured (a couple of minutes).
We recommend you use Top Flite S uper Monokote onto the motor shaft until it stops. At this point there should for covering your SPECTRA due to this covering's higher be at least a 1/16" gap between the spinner backplate and the strength.
(preventing stalls) at slow speeds but it cuts down on the wing's efficiency at normal speeds. The SPECTRA'S wing is designed to fly well at slow speeds without any washout, and therefore we recommend you check to make sure the wings are "flat'' using the following procedure.
D 4. Trial fit the fin in place on top of the stab. Trim it if sandpaper to taper three sides on each end of both pushrods. neccessary to get a close fit. Glue the fin in place on top of the The taper should start about 1 -1/2"...
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servo rail. Do not push the front servo rail up tight against the the exposed point and sand the top of the servo wheel smooth. servo but rather leave about a 3/32" gap between the servo Install the horn on the throttle servo so that at full throttle the "body"...
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receiver or side of the throttle servo with double sided foam CAUTION - This switch should be kept in the OFF tape. Because the canopy is so easy to remove, there is no position until ready to run the motor. If you are not using need for the switch to be accessible from the outside (this a throttle control, this switch alone will turn on the prop.
These control surface "throws" are Stick Movements Movements approximate and provide a good starting point for the first flights with your SPECTRA. You may wish to change the throws slightly to provide the control authority that you prefer. Elevator moves UP ELEVATOR: 1/2"...
"tuck under" or dive when its flying speed the name of a club in your area. We recommend that you join increases. If you fly the SPECTRA with its CG behind the AMA and a local club so you can have a safe place to fly and spar (usually only contest flying), pay close attention and do also have insurance to cover you in case of a flying accident.
Try to find an experienced pilot to help you with your first flights. Although the SPECTRA is very easy to fly, an experienced pilot can save you a lot of time and possible AMA SAFETY CODE aggravation by helping you get your model in the air smoothly.
The SPECTRA is designed to climb at about a 30 degree angle without any control inputs. When the plane is trimmed for level gliding flight a 7 cell battery will make it climb very Turn on the transmitter first and then the receiver and nicely without additional control inputs.
THERMAL FLYING Thermal soaring is one of the most intriguing of all aspects of flying and the SPECTRA was designed to excel at thermal soaring even in the hands of a novice. It can be hard for the average person to understand how a plane can fly for...
When encountering sink, immediately turn and fly 90 When the sailplane flys directly into a thermal it will either start rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough degrees to the direction of the wind (towards you if possible). Apply a little "down elevator'' and pick up some speed to get to start circling (especially in a contest where every second out of the sink as fast as possible.
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