Table of Contents
Advertisement
from the
string, which
represents
the
center of
the
shaft, to
the
position
of the hangers
using the
figures given
on the engine
scale
drawing.
If the mounting
lugs are
parallel to
the centerline
of the
shaft,
the top of the
engine beds
are then simply cut at the same an-
gle as the
string and below it the
distance
of the mounting lugs.
If
the forward and
rear mounting lugs
are offset,
the top of the
engine
bed is cut in steps at the angle of
the string
with the
distance from
the str ing to the top of each equal-
ing the distance from the centerline
of the engine to the mounting lugs.
After the pattern of the engine bed
is completed, replace the propeller
shaft
and
fasten
the
propeller
coupling in place on the shaft. The
engine must now
be lifted into the
boat
and
temporarily
blocked
in
place
with the
propeller coupling
in as close
alignment to the coup-
ling half on the propeller shaft as
possible.
If the engine is a small
one, this can be
done by fastening
a pole securely to
the lifting eye
on the engine
and with
two men on
each end of the pole bodily lifting
the engine in place.
If the engine
is large or help is
not available,
an "A
I!
frame wi th a block and tackle
can be used. Or the job can be done
by a trucl{
equipped with
a winch.
In any case,
extreme care
must be
taken that all hitches used are se-
cure and all
tackle of
sufficient
strength to hold the load. A broken
rope or slipped
knot at this point
could
result in a very
leaky boat
and a very discouraged boatman.
With the engine securely blocked in
place,
slide
the engine
beds
in
place under
the engine and
on the
inside
of the stringers.
i~'hen
in
place, fasten them temporarily with
~4C"
clamps.
Four
1/2"
holes are
then bored equally spaced along the
length
of the engine bed,
through
the
stringers
and bed.
One-half
inch
carriage
bolts are
then in-
serted
in the holes
and
securely
-8-
tightened.
Use
washers
under all
nuts.
The position
of the
engine
hold-down
bolts is
now
marked on
the top surface of the engine beds.
In some cases, it
will be possible
to drill these
holes without dis-
turbing the engine;
in others, the
engine must be removed. Drill these
holes us ing a dr ill 1/8 inch smaller
than the lag screws to be
used for
fastening
the
engine
in
place.
Three-eighths-inch lag screws which
will project
three inches into the
engine
beds
will
be
sufficient.
Insert the
engine
hold-down bolts
with
washers
under the
heads and
screw them to
within three or four
turns of being tight.
4.
ALIGNING
THE
ENGINE
The blocking can now be removed. from
the engine and
the engine lined up
with the propeller
shaft.
The en-
gine will be
in alignment when the
faces
of the
two
halves
of
the
propeller
coupling
are
parallel
within .003 of
an inch or less.
A
feeler gauge is
us~d,
checking all
around the two faces
and shims ad-
ded under the
engine hangers until
the two faces are
in alignment. If
no feeler gauge is available,
four
narrow str ips of paper can be placed
between the two faces at four points
around the circle. Any variation of
alignment
can then be
felt by the
looseness of anyone of the strips.
Each time a shim is added or removed,
tighten all hold-down bolts and re-
check alignment. Extra care at this
time will
payoff in
terms of fu-
ture performance.
Do not
attempt
to bring
the
two
faces of
the coupling
together by
springing the propeller shaft.
,~rhen
the engine is in perfect alignment,
bolt the two halves of the coupling
together and remove the wedges from
around
the propeller
shaft.
~ith
the engine in neutral, the propeller
shaft
should turn easily.
If not,
check for tightness in the stuffing
box or slight misalignment in strut
location or angle.
Hide quick links:
Advertisement
Table of Contents
