The 1 HP Rule
The HP rating of the swimming pool pump is most criti-
cal in successful operation of the pool and specific acces-
sories. The most common misconception as consumers
update pools with aftermarket pumps is that a 2 HP pump
is superior to a 1 HP pump. A 2 HP pump will not func-
tion with a 300 LB sand filter, a 48 sq ft DE, or a 53 sq ft
cartridge, the most popular builder sizes.
All pumps have a GPM rating, as do the filters. A 72 GPM
1 HP pump is the proper rating for the aforementioned fil-
ters and a 96 GPM 2 HP pump will require at least a 600
LB sand filter or a 72 sq ft DE filter.
While subtle issues exist related to the plumbing mani-
folds (1.5" pipe vs. 2" pipe), total feet of pipe between
skimmer and the pump is also a consideration.
The exception to this are accessory water features and in
floor cleaning systems, usually new construction issues
only. The trend is to incorporate both a separate pump,
and in many cases, a separate filter, which is always re-
quired for in floor cleaning systems.
Variable flow pumps, "Intelligent" engineering as the man-
ufacturers call it, are not being marketed all through the
United States. The mechanical track record and claimed
energy savings of variable flow pumps are vague at best.
Two operating issues need to be considered beyond HP
and variable speed or flow analysis:
1) The pool must circulate during daylight hours
since algae are dormant at night.
2) Timing systems require the pool owner to be
able to reprime their pump on occasion or pay for
a service call if the pool fails to restart.
3) A rotary pump can run at the lowest RPM speed
1/8 HP for 24 hours and still use 75% less
electricity.
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Many builders run the pump and filter 24
hours to avoid these issues. This "off peak"
circulation adds between $10 and $20 per
month to the monthly electric bill at aver-
age U.S. rates.
The leading North American swimming
pool pump manufacturers are Hayward,
Sta-Rite, Pentair, Jandy and Jacuzzi, all with
service and parts networks to support their
customers.
Signs of a failing pump are: overheating
(shutting the pool off), tripping the breaker,
or caviting the flow. Normally, this gives
homeowners some advance warning. The
pump consists of an electric motor, wet end,
and basket. Because rebuilding the motor
requires two trips and usually an outside
vendor, most pool professionals will recom-
mend replacement of the pump, or at least
a brand new motor. Do-it-yourselfers may
save half of their moeny or more with a mo-
tor rebuild only. They are unlikely to get the
same useful life of replacement.
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