Table of Contents
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M A S T E R Y
B O O K
S E R I E S
OV E R LO C K E R
WORKBOOK #1 – BASIC SERGER USE
For b erne t te O verlo cker s: b 4 4 , b 4 8
©2019 BERNINA of America. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding.
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Table of Contents
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Summary of Contents for Bernette b44
- Page 1 M A S T E R Y B O O K S E R I E S OV E R LO C K E R WORKBOOK #1 – BASIC SERGER USE For b erne t te O verlo cker s: b 4 4 , b 4 8 ©2019 BERNINA of America.
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
SUPPLIES ����������������������������������������������������������������������24 The information in this workbook applies to the bernette Overlocker Machines models shown above� Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models equipped with the feature being highlighted. b e r n e t t e O V E R L O C K E R W O R K B O O K... -
Page 3: Introduction
3-ring binder. Use this workbook as a reference tool in the future as you learn to use your overlocker in new ways. For more information on the bernette line of sewing machines and overlockers, as well as sewing projects, visit: www.mybernette.com... -
Page 4: Reference - Overlocker Needles
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER NEEDLES bernette Overlocker Needles Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many mechanical problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. When selecting the correct needle, consider the following: •... -
Page 5: Reference - Overlocker Threads
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER THREADS Overlocker Threads Overlocker threads are usually polyester and are finer (lighter weight) than many sewing machine threads to avoid thread build-up and excessive bulk in seams. It is important that the thread is smooth and without variations in diameter as it needs to feed smoothly through many thread guides for good stitch formation. -
Page 6: 4-Thread Overlock Stitch
4-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH Firm fabric, 6” x 6” 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using Standard thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the machine. -
Page 7: Adjusting Tension Settings For Balanced
ADJUSTING TENSION SETTINGS FOR BALANCED STITCH Examine your 4-thread sample. The illustrations below show examples of unbalanced stitches and how to correct the settings to balance the stitch. When making corrections in the tension settings, increase or decrease the settings as needed, moving the dial ½ to 1 number at a time. -
Page 8: Stitch
STITCH LENGTH Firm fabric, 6” x 6” 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Standard Using the balanced 4-thread overlock stitch from the previous exercise, follow the instructions below to adjust the stitch length. 4 mm Fold the fabric in half to 3”... -
Page 9: Cutting Width
CUTTING WIDTH Firm fabric, 6” x 6” 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Standard The overlocker should be threaded for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings as indicated below, or as previously determined. -
Page 10: Differential Feed: Stretchy Fabrics
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: STRETCHY FABRICS Jersey knit, three pieces, 3" x 6"* each 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch The overlocker should be threaded for a 4-thread overlock Standard stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the machine. -
Page 11: Differential Feed: Soft Fabrics
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: SOFT FABRICS Lightweight tricot, two 4" x 6" pieces 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Standard With the overlocker still threaded for a 4-thread overlock Differential stitch and using thread colors to match the color-coded Differential 1 (normal) threading path on the machine, adjust all thread tension... -
Page 12: Presser Foot Pressure
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE 3" x 6" polar fleece 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Standard With the overlocker still threaded for a 4-thread overlock stitch and using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the machine, adjust all thread tension settings as indicated in the chart below or as previously determined. -
Page 13: 3-Thread Overlock Stitch-Wide
Fold fabric in half to 3” x “6”. Stitch along the folded edge of the fabric, trimming 1/4". thread tension setting machine setup ight ppeR oweR titch UttiNg iffeReNtiaL oLLed * b44 eedLe eedLe oopeR oopeR eNgth idth eveR **b48 4* / 4.5** 2�5... - Page 14 UttiNg iffeReNtiaL oLLed * b44 eedLe eedLe oopeR oopeR eNgth idth eveR **b48 2�5 7.5* / 7**...
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Page 15: 3-Thread Overlock Stitch Narrow
Using this same stitch, finish edge of one 6" side of the fabric to see how the stitch looks on a single layer. thread tension setting machine setup ight ppeR oweR titch UttiNg iffeReNtiaL oLLed * b44 eedLe eedLe oopeR oopeR eNgth idth eveR **b48 4*/4.5** 4*/ 4.5** 2�5... -
Page 16: 3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
Gently pull the fabric flat. thread tension setting machine setup ight ppeR oweR titch UttiNg iffeReNtiaL oLLed * b44 eedLe eedLe oopeR oopeR eNgth idth eveR **b48 7.5* / 7** 2�5... -
Page 17: 3-Thread Rolled Hem
UttiNg iffeReNtiaL oLLed * b44 eedLe eedLe oopeR oopeR eNgth idth eveR **b48 4.5* / 4** 6.5* / 6** b e r n e t t e O V E R L O C K E R W O R K B O O K... -
Page 18: 2-Thread Rolled Hem
2-THREAD ROLLED HEM Light weight fabric, 4" x 6" 80/12 ELx705 2 Spools Serger Thread (red, green) 2-Thread Rolled Hem Standard For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a Accessory: Upper Looper Converter 2-thread rolled hem stitch using the right needle and threaded with colors to match the color-coded threading path on the overlocker. -
Page 19: 2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
2-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW Firm fabric, 6" x 6" 80/12 ELx705 3 Spools Serger Thread (red, yellow) Thread the overlocker for a narrow 2-thread flatlock stitch 2-Thread Flatlock (wide) using the right needle and threaded with colors to match the color-coded threading path on the overlocker. Adjust Standard all thread tension settings for a 2-thread flatlock stitch as indicated in chart below. -
Page 20: Overlocker Techniques: Securing Seams
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: SECURING SEAMS Firm fabric, 6" x 6" 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using Standard thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the machine. -
Page 21: Overlocker Techniques: Inside Corner
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: INSIDE CORNER Firm fabric, 6" x 6" 80/12 ELx705 3 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G) 3-Thread Overlock (narrow) Standard Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the machine. -
Page 22: Overlocker Techniques: Outside Corner
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: OUTSIDE CORNER Firm fabric, 6" x 6" 80/12 ELx705 3 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G) 3-Thread Overlock (narrow) Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on Standard the machine. -
Page 23: Overlocker Techniques
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: DIFFERENTIAL FEED AND GATHERING Lightweight woven fabric, 3" x 12" 80/12 ELx705 4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y) 4-Thread Overlock Stitch Standard Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the machine. -
Page 24: Supplies
SUPPLIES NEEDLES AND THREADS 80/12 ELX705 Serger Needles (2 come with machine) 4 Spools Serger Thread (blue, red, green, yellow) Texturized nylon thread (optional) Pearl Crown Rayon thread (optional) FABRICS FOR EXERCISES PAGES 6 THROUGH 19 QUANTITY SIZE FABRIC Firm Fabric such as: •...