Bevel Cutting - Genesis GCS100 Operator's Manual

7 1/4" circular saw

Table of Contents

Cross-Cutting and Rip Cutting

Cutting directly across the grain of a piece of wood is called crosscutting and is likely the most common type of cut done with a circular saw.

Cutting wood lengthwise, or "with" the grain, is called rip cutting. However, it's most often referred to simply as ripping.

Both types of cuts are performed in the same manner with the exception of the methods used to support and secure the work piece for cutting. After

you have secured the work piece in position with clamps or similar devices, prepared the work area, positioned the cord so it won't be cut or become

hung up, performed the saw set up adjustments, made the necessary measurements, drawn a straight guideline, and put on your eye protection, you

can begin the cutting operation.

• Hold the tool firmly using both the front grip and rear handle. use both gripping areas to best hold and control the saw. If both

hands are holding the saw, they cannot be cut by the blade.

• Set the front portion of the saw's base on the work piece to be cut without the blade making any contact. Align the

line-of-cut indicator notch on the right side of the base with your guideline.

• Turn the saw on by depressing the switch trigger and wait until the blade reaches full speed.

• Ease the tool forward over the work piece surface, keeping it flat and advancing smoothly while following your

guideline, until sawing is completed.

• Release the switch trigger. Wait for the blade to completely stop. Check that the lower guard has returned to

position surrounding the blade. Now you can safely remove the saw from the work piece and set it down out of the way.

• To achieve clean cuts, keep your sawing line straight and speed of advance uniform.

• If the cut fails to properly follow your intended cut line, do not attempt to turn or force the tool back to the cut line.

Doing so may bind the blade and lead to dangerous kickback and possible serious injury. Instead, release the switch trigger, wait for the blade to

stop, and then remove the tool. Realign saw on a new cut guideline and start the cut again.

• Avoid positioning yourself so that you're in the path of chips and wood dust being ejected from the saw.

Bevel Cutting

Bevel cuts are made using the same technique as crosscuts and ripping described in the previous section. The difference is that the blade is set at an

angle (tilted) between 0° and 45°.

A bevel cut made at an angle to the edge of a board is called a compound miter. Some compound cuts may require you to manually retract the lower

guard to allow the blade to enter into and/or through the cut.

There are tools better suited for bevel and compound cuts than the hand held circular saw. Although the inner line-of-cut indicator notch aids the

operator in following their cut guideline, the tilted motor housing, however, obstructs their ability to see the blade making accurate cuts difficult. Before

taking on a project with numerous compound or bevel cuts it's suggested that the inexperienced saw user spend time making practice cuts in scrap

lumber to become familiar with and overcome difficulties associated with compound/bevel cutting.

Pocket Cuts

A pocket cut is a cut that must be made inside the area of the work piece rather than starting from an outside edge and working inward. Pocket cuts

can be very dangerous for the novice to attempt because of the need to manually retract the lower guard and perform a plunge cut which is potentially

hazardous.

• Adjust the bevel setting to zero.

• Set the blade to the correct blade depth setting.

• Swing the lower blade guard up by using the lower blade guard handle.

nOTE: Always raise the lower blade guard with the handle to avoid serious injury.

• Hold the lower blade guard by the handle.

• Rest the front of the base flat against the work piece with the rear handle elevated so the blade does not touch the work piece.