Maximum MS20300 Instruction Manual page 26

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model no. 055-9036-2 | contact us 1-888-670-6682 model no. 055-9036 | contact us 1-800-689-9928
CUTTING BASE MOULDING (Fig. 16, 33-34)
Base mouldings and many other mouldings can
be cut on a mitre saw. The setup of the saw
depends on the base moulding characteristics
and applications, as shown. Perform practice
cuts on scrap materials to achieve the best
results.
• Always make sure that the moulding rests
firmly against the fence and table. Use the
workpiece clamp provided or use C-clamps
(not supplied), and place the tape on the
area being clamped to avoid marks on the
workpiece.
• Reduce splintering by taping the cut area
prior to making the cut. Mark the cutting line
directly on the tape. Splintering typically
happens due to incorrect blade style, dull
blade, thinness of workpiece, or improperly
dried wood.
• Place the workpiece flat on the table with
one edge securely against the fence. If the
board is warped, place the convex side
against the fence. If the concave edge of the
board is against the fence, the board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut
and jam the blade.
• Align your pencil line with the shadow line.
• Use the extension rails when cutting long
workpiece.
• Carefully follow all instruction for applicable
mitre, bevel or compound cuts.
CAUTION:
Always perform a dry-run cut so you can determine if
the operation being attempted is possible before power
is applied to mitre saw.
F
e
n
c
e
Mitre saw bed
Mitre at 45°, bevel at 0°
F
e
n
c
e
Mitre saw bed
Mitre at 0°, bevel at 45°
Fig. 33
CUTTING BASE MOLDING FROM 3" UP TO
6 3/4" (76 mm to 171 mm) HIGH VERTICALLY
AGAINST THE FENCE (Fig. 16, 34)
NOTE:
Use the slide stop, shown in Figure 16,
when cutting base molding measuring from
3" to 6 3/4" (76 mm to 171 mm) high vertically
against the fence.
Position material as shown in Figure 34.
All cuts should be made with the back of the
molding against the fence and with the bottom
of the molding against the table.
INSIDE CORNER
Mitre left 45°
Left side
Save left side of cut
Mitre right 45°
Right side
Save right side of cut
Material up to 6 3/4" (171 mm) can be cut as described above.
CUTTING CROWN MOULDING
The mitre saw does an excellent job of cutting crown moulding. In general, mitre saws do
a better job of cutting crown moulding than any other tool made.
In order to fit properly, crown moulding must be compound mitred with extreme
accuracy. The two contact surfaces on a piece of crown moulding that fit flat against the
ceiling and the wall of a room are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90°.
Most crown moulding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of
52° and a bottom rear angle (the section that fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
LAYING MOULDING FLAT ON THE MITRE TABLE (FIG. 35)
To use this method for accurately cutting crown moulding for a 90° inside or outside
corner, lay the moulding with its broad back surface flat on the mitre table and against
the fence.
When setting the bevel and mitre angles for compound mitres, remember that the
settings are interdependent; changing one angle changes the other angle as well.
Keep in mind that the angles for crown moulding are very precise and difficult to set.
Since it is very easy for these angles to shift, all settings should first be tested on scrap
moulding. Also most walls do not have angles of exactly 90°; therefore, you will need to
fine tune your settings.
When cutting crown moulding by this method, the bevel angle should be set at 33.9°.
The mitre angle should be set at 31.6° either right or left, depending on the desired cut
for the application. See the chart below for correct angle settings and correct positioning
of crown moulding on table.
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Fig. 34
OUTSIDE CORNER
Mitre right 45°
Save left side of cut
Mitre left 45°
Save right side of cut