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the main overflow pipe is fully open, the handle should
be in line with the direction of the pipe, and that the
flare outlet nozzles just under the surface of the water
and angled down slightly.
Turn on the return pump and water should start
pumping up into the main aquarium from the sump. The
water level in the aquarium will rise and start to flow
into the weir box, this will then fill the weir to the level of
the strainer on the main overflow pipe and then water
will flow back into the first chamber of the sump. As this
is happening the water level in the sump will decrease.
If the return pump starts to draw in air add more water
to the pump chamber, only add enough water to keep
the pump suitably submerged, do not over fill.
At this stage, the aquarium will be running noisy, this
is normal. Once water is circulating around the system
and the water levels in the sump and main aquarium
are stable you can fine tune the ball valve in the
overflow pipework to achieve quiet running. If you have
a flow controllable pump, set your pump to the desired
power level before continuing.
Close the ball valve slowly in small increments until you
start to see the water level inside the weir rise. Keep
gradually closing the ball valve until the water reaches
the top of the emergency overflow pipe and just starts
overflowing into it. These adjustments can take some
time to perform, it is sometimes best to make a minor
adjustment and wait a few minutes before making the
next. If water starts flowing down the emergency pipe
too quickly then open the ball valve slightly to allow
more water down the main overflow and reduce the
water level in the weir. As the weir is filling, the sump
water level will drop slightly, if needed add more water
to suitably cover the pump.
Please be aware that it is common to get a small
amount of noise from water running through the
pipework when new. As the tank matures biofilms will
form that will dampen some noise. It is also possible
that minor adjustments will need to be made to the ball
valve over the first few days to achieve quiet running as
the tank settles.
Double check the pipework connections for any signs
of drips or leaking once the tank is running.
When the ball valve has been set, we recommend
that a power cut is simulated to check that the drain
down will not be too much for the sump to handle.
Simply unplug or turn off the return pump, the water
level in the aquarium will then drop to the bottom of
the overflow comb and the weir will drain level with the
bottom of the main overflow strainer. The sump should
fill to a high level during this but not overflow. Once
this is done turn the return pump back on and allow the
system to run. As the tank and weir refill the tank will
run noisily, this will quieten as the weir refills.
If the water level in the sump is getting towards the
point of overflowing and the main tank has not reached
its drain down level, check that the two flare nozzle
outlets are not submerged too far under water. If the
sump continues to fill, remove some water from the
system to avoid water flowing over the sump and on to
the cabinet.
If you have had to remove water to prevent the sump
overflowing you will need to lower the height of the
second blue sump baffle or both baffles to reduce the
amount of water in the system when running.
The easiest way to find out how far you need to reduce
the height of these is to firstly, with the return pump
still switched off, remove enough water from the sump
so that the water level is at least 40mm down from
the top edge. Turn the return pump back on and allow
the main aquarium and weir to re-fill. It may take 10-15
minutes for the weir to fill to the level of the emergency
overflow pipe, during this time the tank will run noisily.
Do not adjust the main overflow ball valve as any
adjustments will have to be undone once the water
rises. As the water level in the sump decreases slowly
adjust the second baffle or both baffles downwards
to keep the return pump submerged. Once the main
aquarium and weir are back up to operating level and
the return pump is suitably submerged, the baffles will
be in the highest position, that they can be in for your
aquarium to run safely without overflowing when the
return pump switches off.
Please note that as you add equipment into the sump,
the volume they take up can reduce the amount of drain
down space in the sump, the blue baffles may need
to be lowered further in some cases and some water
removed from the system.
The weir overflow will work at its optimum performance
when the water level is at the top during normal
operation, with a slight trickle going down the
'Emergency Overflow (3)'. This is a better method than
VIEW FROM REAR OF AQUARIUM
trying to perfectly adjust the valve to match the return
pump flow.
Display tank
water height
Outlet
Assembly (1)
VIEW FROM
REAR OF TANK
Top up reservoir
All models of Aqua-Pro Reef aquariums come complete
with a top up reservoir. The 600 / 900 / 1200 / 1500
models have this built into the main sump, the 1800
comes with a separate standalone reservoir that should
be positioned to the right of the main sump. An auto top
up unit will need to be purchased separately, such as the
D-D H2Ocean Compact ATO.
Optimum
water height
in weir
Emergency
Overflow (3)
Removable
strainer
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