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INTRODUCTION
The MID-STAR 40 was designed for mid level R/C pilots who are looking for and easy-to-build sport plane. Its mid wing and light
weight combine to make it a stable platform for novices moving up from their high wing trainer. Advanced pilots will find the MID-
STAR 40 is capable of almost any trick "in the book", yet will slow down for soft gentle landings. It can be flown from pavement
or grass, and it handles the wind well for such a light model.
Easy construction was a top priority for this design. The Lite-Ply fuselage virtually
snaps together and results in a strong, lightweight structure. The wing has no
leading edge sheeting, which helps speed construction. The simple, pre-cut balsa
tail parts also save time. The model can be completely covered with iron-on film,
with only a small amount of painting required.
One important decision that you will need to make before building is whether to
use tricycle landing gear on your MID-STAR 40 or make it a taildragger. New
pilots who are transitioning from a tri-geared trainer may want to stick with the
tricycle setup, which generally helps to make takeoffs easier. The main advantage
of choosing the optional taildragger version is that you will save considerable
weight (no nose gear), resulting in increased performance. The tail dragger version handles very well on the ground - if you've
always wanted to try a taildragger, this would definitely be a good one to start with.

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Summary of Contents for SIG MID-STAR 40

  • Page 1 INTRODUCTION The MID-STAR 40 was designed for mid level R/C pilots who are looking for and easy-to-build sport plane. Its mid wing and light weight combine to make it a stable platform for novices moving up from their high wing trainer. Advanced pilots will find the MID- STAR 40 is capable of almost any trick "in the book", yet will slow down for soft gentle landings.
  • Page 2 If you want maximum aerobatic capability and vertical performance, use an engine towards the upper end of the recommended size range. If the MID-STAR 40 is your first move up from a trainer, engine sizes from the bottom of the range may suit you better.
  • Page 3: Radio Requirements

    There is no one type of muffler that is best suited to the MID-STAR 40. It all depends on the particular engine that you have selected. If you have a 2-stroke engine, use the muffler that was supplied with it or one of the many aftermarket mufflers that are available.
  • Page 4 Die-Cut Poplar Plywood (Lite-Ply) 2 1/8"x5-1/4"x43-1/2" Fuselage 2 1/8"x5-1/4"x24" Fuselage 1 1/8"x4-1/2"x43-1/2" FBR, FTR, 1 1/8"x6"x32" F-2 thru F-6, F-2D, F- Sides Doubler, Servo Rail BP, CF-1, CF-2, Stab Support, 3S, F-4S, Wing Tips, Hatch Plates, Supports, Wing Tip Brace Stab Tip Template Dual Tool, RCG-1, RCG-2 1 1/8"x18"x4-1/2"...
  • Page 5: Wing Construction

    Add the 1/16"x1-1/4"x30" top trailing edge sheeting. For this step it is recommended that you use Sig-Bond (alphatic resin) along the back edge of the sheeting that glues to the trailing edge. That will make the joint easier to...
  • Page 6 (in the next step). Otherwise, you may find it difficult to remove your wing from the board later! 6. Pieces for the top center sheeting should be cut from the 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa provided in the kit. Again, Sig Bond is recommended for the front and rear edges of the sheeting to make it easier to sand the joints smooth.
  • Page 7 11. Carefully carve the top of the trailing edge to match the slope of the to T.E. sheeting using an X-Acto #26 whittling blade. Wrap the top of the blade with masking tape (to protect sheeting), leaving about 1/2" exposed at the base. Use the masked portion to guide the blade at the correct angle.
  • Page 8: Joining The Wing Panels

    The aileron torque rods have been pre-bent so that the threaded portion leans rearward slightly inside the fuselage (see the W-1 wing rib cross-section on the plans). That small angle will provide your MID-STAR 40 with a bit of differential movement (more up that down) in the ailerons, which makes for smoother rolling characteristics.
  • Page 9 21. Finish off the bottom center sheeting, again using 1/16" balsa. 22. Give the wing a final sanding with a long sanding block. Sand just enough to take off any prominent high spots or bumps. Excessive sanding may distort the airfoil shape. Any dents or gouges in the wood can be filled with a lightweight wood filler. 23.
  • Page 10 Drill at the mark with a 9/64" drill bit. Remove the engine and engine mounts. NOTE: If you are building the optional taildragger version of the MID-STAR 40, skip steps 30 & 31 and proceed with step a. Carefully center the molded nylon nose gear bearing over the center line on F-1. Be certain that the bottom edge of the bearing is flush with the bottom edge of F-1.
  • Page 11 a. The die-cut Lite-Ply former F-2D has a dimple in the center to mark the correct position of the hole for the wing hold- down dowel. Glue F-2D to the front of die-cut Lite-Ply former F-2 so that the dimple remains showing. b.
  • Page 12 a. Install the landing gear mount in the rear notches of the fuselage doubler by gluing it firmly to the sides, the doublers, and FBR. b. Tape the die-cut Lite-Ply piece FBF (fuselage bottom, front) in place, recheck the fuselage alignment over the plans, then glue it using medium CA.
  • Page 13: Mounting The Wing To The Fuselage

    45. With the hatch still spot glued to the fuselage, use the plan as a guide to carefully mark the location of the two hold-down screws. Drill completely through the hatch and hatch plates at the marks with a 1/8" drill bit. a.
  • Page 14 a. The 1/4"x7/8"x2" basswood wing hold-down blocks key into notches in the fuselage doubler. To accurately fit them, temporarily tape or pin the wing in place on the fuselage. b. Working through the lightening holes in the fuselage, install the wing hold- down blocks in the notches, making certain they are in full contact with the wing bottom surface.
  • Page 15: Canopy Installation

    a. The nylon pushrods must be supported at each former to keep them from flexing under load. Use the die-cut Lite-Ply pushrod straps, F-3S and F- 4S, to support the pushrods. Notice that the pushrod straps haven't been marked for pushrod location because the routing of the pushrods will vary with different servo installations.
  • Page 16: Tail Surfaces

    For best results, we recommend spraying light coats of Sig Supercoat Dope or Sig Skybrite. The wood can be covered with an iron-on plastic film, but don't try it on the canopy base (the heat from the iron will melt and distort the plastic).
  • Page 17 Remove the fin and rudder (which are still taped together) and sand the top edges until they match. NOTE: If you are building the optional tail dragger version of the MID-STAR 40 proceed with step 71. Otherwise, skip step 71 and proceed to "Installing Easy Hinges".
  • Page 18 Before choosing the covering for your model, please refer to the list of approved covering materials that has been included with this kit. The open-structure design of the Mid-Star 40 wing relies partially on the covering to aid in torsional stiffness, so it is very important that you use an approved covering material.
  • Page 19 Another area that needs some clear dope for protection from exhaust is the rear side of the canopy former #1 (CF-1). For a finishing touch on the canopy, use some 3/16" wide striping tape, such as Sig SuperStripe, around the rear edge and along the side flanges.
  • Page 20: Final Assembly

    INSTALLING EASY HINGES Sig's famous EASY HINGES have been included with your kit to hinge all of the control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is actually a three-part laminate - a tough plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material. They have been chemically treated to slow down the reaction of thin CA (which is normally instant), to allow the glue time to soakall the way to the ends of the hinge and into the wood surrounding it.
  • Page 21 The optional fin braces shown in the photo aren't exactly pretty, but they do add a tremendous amount of strength to the area and are recommended for any MId-Star 40 pilot who is more concerned with day-to-day hardknocks flying than with looks.
  • Page 22: Engine And Fuel Tank Installation

    NOTE: The remaining section of these instructions concerning engine and fuel tank installation, radio installation, pre-flight checkout, and flying provide information that is specific to the MID-STAR 40. For a more in-depth look at any of these subjects, please refer to "The Basics Of Radio Control" booklet also included with this kit. In particular, it is strongly recommended that you go through the "Pre-Flight Checklist"...
  • Page 23 FLYING The MID-STAR 40 is a fun aircraft to fly, but it is not a basic trainer. If you have no previous R/C flying experience, we suggest that you not attempt to fly this model without the assistance of an experienced pilot. Contact your local club or ask your hobby dealer for the names of good fliers in your area and a suitable location for flying.
  • Page 24 Just before the model touches, flare the landing by carefully feeding in more up elevator. Hold the model just inches off the ground until your elevator stick is pulled all the way back. The MID-STAR 40 should settle in for a perfect nose-high landing with a short rollout.
  • Page 25 LIMIT OF LIABILITY: In use of our products, Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection...

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